Ideal Isar HE30 Boiler

[RParmella]

I have an Ideal Isar HE30 boiler that is giving me great central heating but no domestic hot water. There are no error messages but the burner keeps cutting out when I am trying to get DHW. Is this likely to be the divertor valve (expensive to replace) or something else? Any suggestions welcome

 

[diamondgas]

:welcome: to the forum RParmella 🙂

When you turn a hot tap on does your display change at all?

 

[RParmella]

The display changes from 0 to "d" and the burner light comes on for a few secondand then goes out.

Thanks for the reply

 

[diamondgas]

Not diverter by sounds of it RParmella .. Did this sudenly happen or has it been playing up for a while getting gradually worse? It sounds like you need a GSR engineer around 🙂

 

[RParmella]

Engineer now arriving on Tuesday. I thought it might be the diverter valve because the CH outlet pipe gets hot when trying to get DHW even though the CH is not fired up. Problem seemed to come on after replacing flow/return thermistors about 8 months ago (thermistors replaced because of error message)

 

[diamondgas]

Most liely suspect is your plate heat exchanger RP ... Do you live in a hard water area?

 

[RParmella]

No, I live in a relatively soft water area.

 

[diamondgas]

Tuesday next week is a good few days to be waiting for a repair in my opinion RP... Are you on some kind of contract or can you shop around? I'll always attempt to call to any of my customers within 24hrs and usually same day !! Nearly a week is a long time and it's most likely gonna need parts too! How long you gonna wait for that?

 

[SimonJohns]

I have an Ideal Isar HE30 boiler that is giving me great central heating but no domestic hot water. There are no error messages but the burner keeps cutting out when I am trying to get DHW. Is this likely to be the divertor valve (expensive to replace) or something else? Any suggestions welcome

Ignore this. Just re read op

 

[davey b]

could it be the diverter motor biffed,,,, and the boiler overheating and shutting down,,,, would this thow a code out????

I have to look after one of these boilers,,, just a dreadfull thing,,, but performance is excellent,,,

be interesting to see if it is the plate exchanger,,,,

i have to change a prv, expansion vessel, diverter head,, and im starting to suspect the heat exchanger is cracked

not to mention new thermistor and the control box with the display and controls,,,,,,

oh and at 2.5 bar water drips from the hex somwhere at the back,,,,

what next,,,,,,,

 

[diamondgas]

could it be the diverter motor biffed,,,, and the boiler overheating and shutting down,,,, would this thow a code out????

I have to look after one of these boilers,,, just a dreadfull thing,,, but performance is excellent,,,

be interesting to see if it is the plate exchanger,,,,

i have to change a prv, expansion vessel, diverter head,, and im starting to suspect the heat exchanger is cracked

not to mention new thermistor and the control box with the display and controls,,,,,,

oh and at 2.5 bar water drips from the hex somwhere at the back,,,,

what next,,,,,,,

:rofl: they are a repair guys dream davey 🙂

regards DV motor, the op has no probs with the heating so div is working fine by sounds of things ... pushing down the heating flow on water only is tell tale sign of P-Hex flow restriction too. Coupled with burner cutting out, presumably on flow temp, its a knocking bet its the p-hex ... but without being there best advice is all we can give eh? 🙂

 

[davey b]

these boilers can definetly catch you out if you dont know how they operate,,,,

the one im looking after really should be replaced but were trying to nurse it through to the spring when it will be replaced

what i noticed was with the div motor off, the diverter is biased to ch, depress the plunger and the hot water would work and with tap closed it would fill its tank and go from d to c as normal,,,

what made mine worse is that the system feeds underfloor heating so with no heating on there is no heat sink as all the valves are closed and with a knackered exp vess it soon boiled and hit overheat shutting down,, and the gauge got above 3 bar so i have to assume the prvs kaput,,,, as i fitted a new gauge a yr agoso that should still be ok,,

mind you the gauge was all over the place like it was on speed,,,, quite violent

changed the motor and hot water works ok,,,

and thats another story,,, 3 different types and the honeywell one fitted to mine superceeded by another one but you have to change the diverter valve or cartridge to make it fit
luckily i found out the motor is still made for another boiler and is available and fits!

i do hate these boilers but you will never need seduko or a puzzell book if you have one of these babys,,,,

 

[diamondgas]

Ideal's introduction to the condensing market has been a catallogue of mistakes after mistakes, I'm amazed they're still going to be honest! However their newer babies seem to be doing okay so far 🙂

 

[Mbear]

Defo sounds like the diverted valve is stuck/sticking in ch mode. Cheapest fix would be to buy the diverted valve cartridge, ideal don't sell this as a separate spare (they sell the whole manifold section), but the baxi Bahama boiler has the same diverter valve and baxi do sell the cartridge separately. I do this fix all the time, works a charm. It's obviously a much cheaper way of doing it and don't worry that it's a different boiler, they both use the same valve and therefor u can use the baxi one. Hope that helps