Ideal Isar HE30

[Mik007]

Hi all,
#
I have had an Ideal Isar HE30 combi boiler for about 5 years, haven’t had any major problems with it so far but I have replaced the fire detect electrode and the spark electrode few months back. A few days ago it started to make a noise that sounds like its struggling, when the hot water is running. The boiler starts up as normal, burner comes on and there's hot water, but a minutes later the water starts to get cooler and the boiler starts to make the struggling sound and then the burner would stop. A minute later the burner starts up again, and the same cycle continues. Normally the burner would be on as long as there’s demand for the hot water. However the boiler runs fine when in central heating mode. I have had the boiler serviced by British Gas recently. I am an Electrical Engineer by trade and tried to figure this out but haven’t had much luck as i don’t really know that much about boilers. The pump and the diverter valve are working as normal too. It seems like the sound is coming from the heat exchanger. Anyone able to give me any helpful suggestions? I would be very grateful...

 

[diamondgas]

Is the boiler displaying any fault codes? If not then it may be flueing issues/condensate blocked. Check the route of the condensate pipe. If it's flue, hex, burner related then you'll need someone qualified to look at it. Are you on a BG service contract? If so get them out to sort it for you 🙂

 

[Mik007]

Thanks for the quick reply steve.

No fault codes are being displayed also I have cleaned out the condensate trap, it did have allot of crap in it but wasn’t blocked. Should there be any water in the condensate trap? because I didn’t see any. I don’t have a BG service contract but looking to get one because of this problem, want to get it sorted before winter comes. I wanted to open the sump cover to see if the heat exchanger was dirty or blocked, how do I drain the sump?

 

[diamondgas]

Thanks for the quick reply steve.

No fault codes are being displayed also I have cleaned out the condensate trap, it did have allot of crap in it but wasn’t blocked. Should there be any water in the condensate trap? because I didn’t see any. I don’t have a BG service contract but looking to get one because of this problem, want to get it sorted before winter comes. I wanted to open the sump cover to see if the heat exchanger was dirty or blocked, how do I drain the sump?

The sump should be dry as the water runs straight into the condensate trap below! Does it fire up ok and stay running with the front cover off? Not the whit case cover but the silver access cover? I know you shouldn't be messing with it but it sounds like you already have been and know your way around the boiler somewhat! If it lights up and runs okay with the cover off then your issue is with the flue and it's seals. 🙂

 

[SimonJohns]

Also to check the sump isn't blocked there is an access panel. The has 3 black screws and is located at the bottem if the heat ex

If that is full of condense then you have a blockage in there somewhere


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- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mik007]

Yes the boiler runs and fires up ok while the silver panel is off.But I did notice that it was quite noisy while it was exhausting.Do you think there should be any water in the condensate trap?because my one is completely dry...there's a warning on the Sump cover that the boiler should be drained before it's opened.

 

[diamondgas]

Yes the boiler runs and fires up ok while the silver panel is off.But I did notice that it was quite noisy while it was exhausting.Do you think there should be any water in the condensate trap?because my one is completely dry...there's a warning on the Sump cover that the boiler should be drained before it's opened.

There's no pressure behind it as the sump is only an inch or so deep. undo the screws and ease it forwards with the rubber seal. If your concerned roll up a towel and place it next the the inspection plate as you ease it off! If water starts comming out push it back and tighten the screws then remove the condensate trap and shove a screwdriver up the hole with a dish beneath of course, that'll be where the blockage will be if there's water in the sump yet the trap is dry 🙂

 

[diamondgas]

Yes the boiler runs and fires up ok while the silver panel is off.

If the boiler stay's on and you're not getting the on/off sequence occuring then there's a problem with the flue seals. Most comonly the rubber turret seal on the flue outlet as it leaves the boiler!

 

[missplumb]

normally if the condensate is blocked the boiler will make a loud humming noise and then shut down, all the ones with this problem have shown the fault code for no gas. i'd probably go with DG and look at the flue turret

 

[boblydon]

Had exactly them same problem today, Isar would not fire up, no codes, no display, neon on on front panel.

Turned out condensate trap FULLY blocked, and the lower chamber 90%blocked, water had seeped out of the lower access panel (all dry when i got there).

Pcb was knackered with the leaking condensate......bloody hell hasn't the price of the M3080 boards shot up in price???

Would also look at the stat sensor, could be reading an incorrect temp and shutting down the boiler

Boiler was up in your neck of the woods Steve (greenside), aint been up that way for ages.

Bob

 

[diamondgas]

Boiler was up in your neck of the woods Steve (greenside), aint been up that way for ages.

Bob

Nice run out Bob... i was along the road in Prudhoe earlier on.

Had an Isar last week with rain ingress from a broken drain .. running down the air intake flue and made it's way to the pcb! Expensive! All in a day's work eh? 🙂

I'd agree regards the sump hole being blocked. Usually coz folk shove an fga in the flue and do little else ...

 

[Mik007]

[video=youtube;IxFgiAVlJdg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxFgiAVlJdg[/video]I've managed to take the sump cover off; it was a little bit dirty inside so I cleaned it. I also took the fan and burner cover off and cleaned the inside. I then took the condensate trap off and cleaned it, but this time found water in it. The problem still remains,as there's still a clunking noise when the boilers running and when there's demand for hot water. The pressure gauge is showing the pressure is moving erraticaly up and down from 1.5b to 0.5b to 3b. This happens as the clunking noise occurs. Basically as the noise occurs the pressure changes in sync and then the burner would shut down, then a few minutes later the burner restarts and the same sequence continues. I have read on other forums and websites online that one of the causes could be due to trapped air in the boiler. In the service manual, it shows that the air can be vented through the pump and the automatic air vent, is this correct or are there other suggestions? And can I do this while the boiler is filled with water and running? I have attached a video to show the pressure moving up and down and in the background you are able to hear the clunking noise.

 

[quality]

Heat exchanger problem . Either take it of and empty the contents in the bin or fit a new one.
ps. Have ver had to top up the pressure and if so how often ?

 

[mrplumberman]

try changing the divertor valve cartridge.i,ve came across this before.

 

[armourer]

try changing the divertor valve cartridge.i,ve came across this before.

I changed one of these today as it was letting by into CH on DHW demand.

As a plus it also cured this "bouncing pressure gauge".

I think you might have it there mrplumberman.

 

[Mik007]

Thank you for all your suggestions. i will replace the diverter valve cartridge (part 173 967) and see what happens. As i am not a plumber, will there be any water leakage when im replaceing the cartridge?. Also are there any precautions i should be taking into account before i attempt to replace the cartridge? for e.g switching the power off to the boiler or switching the water off etc..

 

[armourer]

The cartridge is mounted directly into the central heating water so yes, you will need to drain down first and as a precaution always turn off the power to the boiler.

You will get instructions and a tool for removing the cartridge in the cartridge pack.

 

[Mik007]

Replacing diverter valve cartridge

1. Switch mains power off.
2. Isolate D.H.W inlet and C.H.
3. Drain the C.H system at a drain off point.
4. Run the D.H.W taps to drain D.H.W.
5. Add inhibitor (Fernox or Sentinel, tube type)
6. Remove Diverter valve head.
7. Remove and replace Valve cartridge.
8. Close drain of point.
9. Open CH and DHW isolating valves.
10. Fill boiler as normal.
11. Depress diverter valve spindle several times to release any trapped air.
12. Bleed air from the pump.
13. Rest of the air should vent through the auto air vent.
14. If not bleed radiators.
15. Replace Diverter valve
16. Switch mains on and run boiler.

Would these be the correct steps to take to replace the diverter valve cartridge?
And if the boiler was run without the sealing panel on for a couple of minutes, would it cause any problems?

 

[cdodds2004]

i wouldnt replace the diverter valve yet mate, if the diverter valve is faulty when running the hot tap keep a hold of the flow pipe off the boiler if this warms up the diverter valve could be at fault, my opinion on this, which all it is without being at the job, that if the boiler is firing up normally on hot water then shutting off and coming on again its a heat problem, so my first port of call would be a sludged up plate heat exchanger, or possibly the hw sensor? how high does the temp go on the boiler display before it starts to cycle?

 

[Mik007]

Thanks for your suggestions mate. The C.H floor pipe is usually a little bit warm near the boiler anway, when I run the hot water tap it doesn't change or get warmer. If the heat exchange plate was a little bit sludged up, then why doesn't the flow of the water change? Today I ran the boiler without the divertor head on for about 5 minutes, and that seemed to work fine. The boiler ran up ok, the burner came on and didn't go off and there wasn't any funny noises. But once I put the divertor valve head back on the boiler, then ran the hot water tap; the problem came back again! Does this indicate that the fault is with the divertor valve or something else? The system runs ok when in C.H mode...If someone could please suggest any tests that can be carried out which may indicate or point me towards the possible cause; it would save me from taking the whole boiler apart.

 

[Mik007]

Sorry meant to say "flow pipe".

 

[RoryD]

Hi all,
#
I have had an Ideal Isar HE30 combi boiler for about 5 years, haven’t had any major problems with it so far but I have replaced the fire detect electrode and the spark electrode few months back. A few days ago it started to make a noise that sounds like its struggling, when the hot water is running. The boiler starts up as normal, burner comes on and there's hot water, but a minutes later the water starts to get cooler and the boiler starts to make the struggling sound and then the burner would stop. A minute later the burner starts up again, and the same cycle continues. Normally the burner would be on as long as there’s demand for the hot water. However the boiler runs fine when in central heating mode. I have had the boiler serviced by British Gas recently. I am an Electrical Engineer by trade and tried to figure this out but haven’t had much luck as i don’t really know that much about boilers. The pump and the diverter valve are working as normal too. It seems like the sound is coming from the heat exchanger. Anyone able to give me any helpful suggestions? I would be very grateful...

What was the outcome of this problem mate, i have exactly the same breakdown and I suspect the DHW sensor. I'd like to know what happened on this job if you would please mate

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

What was the outcome of this problem mate, i have exactly the same breakdown and I suspect the DHW sensor. I'd like to know what happened on this job if you would please mate

the point of you having a yellow badge rory is you ask in the gsr section and as this was last posted in 2011 i suspect the op has bought a better boiler by now THREAD CLOSED