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armyash

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Gas Engineer
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Oct 13, 2010
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Hi I have just had a friend of a friend message saying her boiler doesn't work. From what she is saying it's displaying L2.

I'm reluctant to race round there right now as she wants a quote to repair so unlikely she will want to pay a fee for me going on a Sunday evening.

She has an immersion so will have hot water.

Anyone familiar with this fault?

I have asked if gas hob is working to making sure she hasn't done something silly like not topped up gas etc.
 
Can you find out the model and look up the code
I think the logic and logic plus are slightly differnt
 
All the manuals are online
Thanks, already checked that out. Was wondering if anyone had come across the fault or knew the most likely issue to save me going tonight. Doesnt matter now, going over in half hour.
 
Just leaving to look now. Could be a number of things from blocked flue or condense or maybe gas valve amongst other.

Hopefully blocked condense. Been told regular boiler repair guy couldn't sort it. It's a rental property I've now been told. Probably never been serviced properly. 7 years old.

Polish tenant too hopefully speak good English.
 
25mb at boiler inlet on gas.

Ol reading on gas valve pins resistance. Wiring OK between pcb and gas valve.
 
Fan will run then straight to l2. Getting Ol reading on resistance. Incorrect dc voltage. But continuity on cable so that's OK.

Going through fault finding flow it's saying pcb but also if not getting correct resistance then gas valve also faulty.

Condense and flue clear. Trap is bone dry
 
That was not fun.

The tenant told me the spark generator has been replaced twice and the boiler would work for a little while. The boiler has not been working since before christmas. It hasnt worked properly for any length of time for 3 years.

The programmer needs replacing. The lights jump around and turns on and off. Possible wiring issue but didnt have time to investigate this.

Following the fault finding chart, inlet pressure is above 18mb, do not get 215 volts dc at gas valve so i checked continuity of wires to pcb, this was ok. flow chart says must be pcb. Makes sense, out of interest I checked the gas valve resistance on the pins, supposed to get 4 kohms, I was getting OL, when i did the Baxi course (I know, its an ideal and not a Baxi) I was taught if there's supposed to be specific ohms reading but getting OL then suspect component failure, the trainer said this rule applies when testing any boiler. I know its not very common to get multiple parts fail.

While I was there the landlady called, decided to tell me that she is selling the house in the next few months so that's why she needs it fixed. Also confirmed its not been ok for at least 2-3 years. Asked for a quote to repair, I said i'd have to come with pcb and gas valve. Advised her to go to Ideal for fixed price repair, she still wants a price from me.

I wont be going back.
 
Wouldn't have minded had it been a genuine emergency. Got there to find out it hasn't worked at all for almost a year, no wonder the trap was dry. Landlady only wants it fixed so she can sell the house, made out there was a family dying of hypothermia. The tenants were not bothered, they were used to it.

30 minute drive there on a Sunday night, hour+ on site and drive back. No good deed goes unpunished.
 


No chance. I gave her the option for me to repair but also advised to go for the Fixed price with Ideal.

Had it have been a bit closer to home at a decent hour and she'd have been honest with me I might have done it as a freebie but after making out it had only just stopped working to get me out I charged her accordingly. She transferred the money across this afternoon. I work all hours 7 days a week and don't mind doing the odd favour but once she said she only wants it fixed so she can sell up it was case back on, isolate and laters.
 
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