inlet-valve-cistern-will-not-sit-tight-to-bottom-of-cistern

[Nik]

Good Evening



I would like some more help please, to avoid further issues, suprises and expense.

Re: -inlet-valve-cistern-will-not-sit-tight-to-bottom-of-cistern

Following my post yesterday, I considered the possible outcomes of cutting the pipe.

Thankfully, it is a weekend and snowing, not a good time to be cutting a pipe with an elderly disabled mother in the house.

I will therefore be calling a plumber out to fit a ballofix, flexible hose (female to female) and an inlet valve.


I have already purchased the inlet valve (copper olive, plastic washer and tape, if needed).

So he will need an isolation valve and a flexible hose?

Will I have to pay for parts on top of the £80 labour?

Should I disconnect the cistern from the toilet? Remove the overflow pipe and disconnect the saniflo. Basically disconnect everything that is connected to the cistern and pan.

So the plumber will have to reconnect everything. Just so I can be sure that nothing else can go wrong after they leave.

I would be very grateful for any advice as I do not want to offend the plumber, but need to be sure that it is all done and I do not end up being made a fool of again. (please see my last comment on my previous post).

 

[SilentMike]

whats the problem is the iso valve/connector too low or dose it not sit square?
looking at the pic it doesnt look that low have you tried the new valve you may find the tail is not the same length as the last one?

if your getting a plumber out dont touch anything just let him do his job

 

[Nik]

The iso valve is too high and it does not sit sqaure. So washer on inlet valve does not touch the bottom of the citern inside the cistern.

Yes the thread on the inlet valve is the same length as the one replaced.

 

[Nik]

When the plumber fitted the sanislim and removed the sani pump t12, he man handled the toilet and cistern without disconnection the overflow pipe or the inlet valve. He then pushed the inlet pipe tight up against the wall. He then said that as he did not touch the overflow pipe of inlet pipe, he was not responsible.

 

[SilentMike]

not a difficult job to sort out, not very good customer sevice IMHO.I wouldn't start messing with the macerator or the cistern, the stuff you need to do the job most plumber's should have on their van. there are a few of ways it can be done so best to let them decide which way is best imho, try your friends to to get someone recommended

or try the i need a plumber section on here

 

[Nik]

Apologies for coming across like a victim.

I appreciate your time.

I will look at the section of this forum that you have suggested.

For some reason when we try friends or family, the plumbers recommended are either busy or their telephone numbers no longer work.

We have a large family, but even so,we never have enough work to be able to use the same plumber between all of us.

Shame plumbers like the one we recently called do not see the benefit of Customer Service.

If you do know of anyone you trust that lives near Enfield Please leave their number on my profile page.

Thank you again for your time and all the best.

 

[Nik]

Progress update inlet-valve-will-not-sit-tight-to-bottom-of-cistern

Follow up to my last post

Hi


I disconnected the overflow pipe and undid the screws into the floor that hold the sanislim in place. I also undid the screws that hold the cistern to the wall.

I gently moved the sanislim forward, no more than a few mm. But enough to relieve the pressure placed on the overflow pipe and inlet pipe, which were squashed tight up against the wall. Causing the problems.

I then took the fluidmaster inlet valve and took a junior hacksaw to it.
I proceeded to chop of ¼ inch from the thread/tail. Then another ¼ inch and used a sanding block to smooth the end and remove the remaining 1/8 inch.

As suggested, I replaced the supplied flat washer with a convex washer.

I then fitted the inlet valve to the elbow compression iso valve.

I then refitted the overflow tube to the outlet pipe.

I poured in a jug of water and no dripping or leaks. Although, when I wipe a tissue around the overflow pipe on the underside of the cistern I get a small damp patch on the tissue.

So I now have to discover why the overflow pipe is leaking from the bottom of the cistern.

I will not turn the iso valve on until I get the overflow pipe sealed tight.

1. Once I turn on the iso valve, I assume the only thing that could leak is the iso connection to the tail/thread of the inlet valve?

I turned it hand tight, then a quarter turn with a wrench.

Should I use the plastic washer in the compression joint, where it attaches to the inlet valve tail? If I do will the joint compensate for it or should I sand another 1 mm off the tail/thread of the inlet valve.

Once again, any input or advice will be greatfully appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

 

[Nik]

Update day 4 and all is well. No leaks, no need to pay anyone.

Everything is working better than before.

A bit of advice, a junior hacksaw and a touch of confidence, did the job.

I have come to the conclusion that the plumber employed left a little present for his friend who got him the job. About £80 worth.

Thank you to those of you who acknowledged that the plumber left me in a bad state and offered me practical and relevant advice.

To those of you who only suggested getting in another plumber, u2