Hello. This is my first post. I hope someone can help me. My kitchen tap recently started dripping from the spout and the spout is also a bit loose. I removed the spout revealing 2 washers that I changed. I re-assembled the spout but the problem persists. I guess my next option is to re-seat the spout. I have seen tools online for this job but they all seem to have to screw in before grinding. My spout has no thread, it just pushes in. Will these tools be of any use to me please. Much appreciated. Alison
Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
Reseating tools act on the hot and cold inlets grinding them back flat where they’ve pitted and channelled over time they’re not for the spout. When you say dripping from the spout do you mean where water is supposed to come from or it’s found another way out?? Depending on the age and cost of the tap a new one is probably easier. Any pics??
It'll be the 2 O rings on the spout and it'll be leaking when either tap is turned on.
If it's still leaking with the new O rings and they are the correct ones, the tap is scrap.
If it's still leaking with the new O rings and they are the correct ones, the tap is scrap.
W
Welder
Personally I'd be investigating a little more before scapping possibly needlessly. Please post some pictures cos it could save you a fair few pounds.
Plumbsure Rubber O Ring, Pack of 8 | DIY at B&Q
I haven't got the packaging but I think these are the ones. Thanks
I'm waiting with baited breath to find out where YorkshireDave gets his O rings from and how he sizes them. O rings are something I have always struggled to find proper replacements for.
Know a good supplier? Surely if you know the ID and OD, then the thickness is the difference divided by 2?
Compound differences affects the softness or hardness, I assume? (As well as longevity).
EDIT: I now see my method above would result in a piston fit, not an interference fit and would therefore leak.
EDIT2: just remembered that what I had meant was that if you know the ID and OD of an O ring then the above calculation would give its section. But this is no help in finding the right O ring for an application, and very hard to measure accurately.
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W
Welder
ID & section. These need to be epdm.
Measure the dia of what it fits into SECTION 1
Measure the dia of what it fits round ID
Measure the width of the slot it sits in SECTION 2
Use Section measurement to determine section.
If ID is 7mm and Sect1 10mm & Sect2 is 2.1mm the Section dia would be 1.8mm
For this application shore60 or70 is fine.
I can see from the image there is nowhere for the squashed rubber to go in the groove.
Alison was there a thinner smaller oring in the kit? I often stretch a thinner one into position and it works just fine so long as its lubricated. The ring MUST NOT fill the groove
Measure the dia of what it fits into SECTION 1
Measure the dia of what it fits round ID
Measure the width of the slot it sits in SECTION 2
Use Section measurement to determine section.
If ID is 7mm and Sect1 10mm & Sect2 is 2.1mm the Section dia would be 1.8mm
For this application shore60 or70 is fine.
I can see from the image there is nowhere for the squashed rubber to go in the groove.
Alison was there a thinner smaller oring in the kit? I often stretch a thinner one into position and it works just fine so long as its lubricated. The ring MUST NOT fill the groove
Types of Rubber and Basic Properties - All Seals Inc. - The Sealing Specialists
Faster than I can explain the difference Ric
Faster than I can explain the difference Ric
Is this your working:
I/D minus S1 = 1.5
and the mean of 1.5 and S2 is 1.8 .: section required is 1.8?
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