Motorised valve position help needed.

[Best]

That circulating pump is very old as clearly it is the large motor Wilo Gold.
I wouldn’t trust any of that install judging by the twin wall light metal flue straight down on top of Warmflow boiler. 😱

 

[LisburnWhite]

That circulating pump is very old as clearly it is the large motor Wilo Gold.
I wouldn’t trust any of that install judging by the twin wall light metal flue straight down on top of Warmflow boiler. 😱

Yeah think it's about 25 years since it was installed. Can't afford to fork out too much at the moment so was looking for a reasonably quick way to at least sort out water in tank overheating.

 

[LisburnWhite]

Thanks for all the guidance and suggestions.

Was able to squeeze the MV between the vent pipe and the cylinder. Got it wired up to the cylinder stat and everything is working well with no pumping over.
Going to buy another MV and a wall stat to control the rads and fit an auto bypass valve (when I have the time and get a few quid saved)

Again thanks for the help.

 

[Best]

Thanks for all the guidance and suggestions.

Was able to squeeze the MV between the vent pipe and the cylinder. Got it wired up to the cylinder stat and everything is working well with no pumping over.
Going to buy another MV and a wall stat to control the rads and fit an auto bypass valve (when I have the time and get a few quid saved)

Again thanks for the help.

What will happen when the both zone valves turn off that you plan to fit?

 

[LisburnWhite]

What will happen when the both zone valves turn off that you plan to fit?

When both hot water and room stat hit their settings both valves will turn off. When this happens there will be no call for heat from boiler/pump and they will turn off. The bypass valve between flow/return is more for safety and saving the pump I think in case a problem occurs and for some reason the boiler/pump is running when both MV closed.

 

[Best]

If you put a zone valve on radiator circuit then the hot water circuit could be working and extra risk of pumping over on some systems with vent and feed ahead of pump.
Sealed system best, if suitable.
Good that you are doing the wiring to use the zone valves to turn oil boiler and pump off

 

[Mastermixlee]

Whilst I understand financial constraints I believe the temporary fixes tend to end up being permanant and don't end up getting done properly.

Another thing to check would be get a cup of water and with the system running put the cup up to the open vent pipe to see if your getting air sucked in through OV pipe (the water will suck up from the cup if you are)

Sounds like you intend for the valves to be wired in properly with boiler interlock so that's good as otherwise I'd imagine you'd definitely experience pumping over when zone valves shut off.

Personally I'd take the time and little extra effort to alter the pipework slightly and fit 2 zone valves (wireless cylinder stats and roomstats make job fairly easy with wiring) for long term performance and ease of maintenance of the system.

I'd also check water quality when fitting the valve(s) and inhibitor levels.

 

[LisburnWhite]

Ok, update for anyone interested.
Fitted second MV for central heating and auto bypass and all working with no problems so far.
Will keep an eye out for pumping over but none at present with either hw only or ch only or both on/off.
Also went for a room stat that I can control via my phone and it's great. Can set as many times and temperatures as you like so that will definitely pay for itself.

 

[Riley]

Well done rodders you knew it made sense