-
Are you a Gas Engineer? Join the new Gas Talk community!
Gas Engineers only CLICK HERE TO VISIT GAS TALK Forum, and CLICK HERE to Join the Gas Talk FB Community. Read more about this in THIS THREAD.
Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
View the thread, titled "Moving Earthenware Waste in Concrete" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.
Ft will do (tight tight)
If moving connection at rightangle to run of pipe you will need a medium radius 90 bend, which can be rotated towards wall and a 15 or 30 bend to bring pipe square with floor, depends on depth of existing and required distance off wall. Short length of 110 straight pipe, pan connector and your stepped clay to PVC coupling.
I`ve only ever used the small 40-50mm ones where the worm head can be tightned with a screwdriver or a socket, the socket and a ratchet will give a greater torque.
B
blawford
Just looking at pipe. Screwfix and Wickes are the closest places to me and Screwfix is a couple of quid per joint more expensive than Wickes, but Screwfix is FlowPlast branded stuff vs Wickes own brand. Should I spend the extra?
If near a Toolstation they will be even better and no problem returning unused fittings.
B
blawford
Had a look at Toolstation but they don't have the rubber coupling in stock and I don't really want to go to more than 1 place.
So a length of pipe connected to the rubber coupling then an elbow on the end to bring it out vertically at ground level. Would this be suitable as that elbow to sort out the angle I am left with (assuming it isn't something standard, which it almost certainly wont be).
Do I want the end up with the end joint almost flush with the floor?
So a length of pipe connected to the rubber coupling then an elbow on the end to bring it out vertically at ground level. Would this be suitable as that elbow to sort out the angle I am left with (assuming it isn't something standard, which it almost certainly wont be).
Do I want the end up with the end joint almost flush with the floor?
B
blawford
Just finalising what I am going to buy. Can I just check, the pipe that the toilet connects to should ideally be flush pipe (so a single socket rather than a double)?
Last edited by a moderator:
You probably don't want a socket at all.
The pan connector should fit inside the pipe.
What you need is an earthenware to PVC adaptor ( we call them Plumbquicks)
1 x 88 degree bend.
1.5 metres of pipe.
You may require a 15 degree bend if the horizontal drain does not line up with the location n of the new pan.
You will also require concrete to go under the bend where the pipe goes vertical.
You may also want some foam to wrap around the pipe where it goes through the existing slab - not sure if you guys do that?
You will also require some screenings to cover the pipe to the level of the concrete slab, you don't want to encase the whole pipe in concrete.
Hopefully you can decipher what I mean
The pan connector should fit inside the pipe.
What you need is an earthenware to PVC adaptor ( we call them Plumbquicks)
1 x 88 degree bend.
1.5 metres of pipe.
You may require a 15 degree bend if the horizontal drain does not line up with the location n of the new pan.
You will also require concrete to go under the bend where the pipe goes vertical.
You may also want some foam to wrap around the pipe where it goes through the existing slab - not sure if you guys do that?
You will also require some screenings to cover the pipe to the level of the concrete slab, you don't want to encase the whole pipe in concrete.
Hopefully you can decipher what I mean
B
blawford
Sacked it off early on Sunday to watch the football, shouldn't have bothered as it was a terrible game! 90% of the way there but it isn't quite coming out at the right angle.
In addition to the photo I have a 15 degree joint that I think might correct the angle, can I connect the 15 and 45 degree joints together?
In addition to the photo I have a 15 degree joint that I think might correct the angle, can I connect the 15 and 45 degree joints together?
Attachments
yes you can or another 15 degree
B
blawford
Please tell me I am done!
Pipe position is where I want it, about an inch and a half from the wall. Angle is still slightly off but I figure I could probably get the cement floor in level and then cut it off flush? Either that or just use a flexible quick, cover it over with a decorative collar and live with it?
What do you lot think?
Pipe position is where I want it, about an inch and a half from the wall. Angle is still slightly off but I figure I could probably get the cement floor in level and then cut it off flush? Either that or just use a flexible quick, cover it over with a decorative collar and live with it?
What do you lot think?
Attachments
Use a 45 degree bend and twist the two bends until it lines up flat.
Hard to explain, but it will work.
B
blawford
Will give that a try tonight.
R
Radioman
Are you sure you are close enough to to the wall? I would put a couple of boards across the excavation and rough fit the wc and cistern in situ with a pan coupler just to check. Remember to allow for wall tile etc. Worth the effort. You've done really well up,to,now. It's a horrible job.
B
blawford
Yeah I think I am close enough, as I said, it is about 1.5" away and that is without skirting board on, picture might be a bit deceptive due to angle. Having said that I will double check everything tonight and probably do as you say and rough fit it before I lock everything in place.
Toilet I have is a mid level cistern (not sure if that is the right term, basically a high level cistern but with a short flush pipe) so there will be a bit of variance in the fitting, but I do want it as close to the wall as it can be from a space perspective.
Last edited by a moderator:
R
Radioman
That's the ladies installation when the seat meats Velcro to stay up
B
blawford
Good point on the distance needed for the toilet seat to stand up. Velcro bodge would drive me nuts!
Last edited by a moderator:
B
blawford
You got in my head and I decided to make it closer to the wall. Measured again when I got home and I was a little over 2" from the edge of the waste pipe to the wall, decided closer was better than further away and I cut the gap down to 1".
Trouble is now that the soil pipe is now even higher compared to the floor level. Tried the earlier suggestion of twisting the two joints on each other to sort out the angle of the final opening but couldn't get it to help. Here is where I am at currently and I could do with some suggestions on how to solve it, preferably quickly, as I really need to draw a line under this part of the project.
All good and level this way.
Not level this way.
Bottom of the spirit level is where the line of the floor is. So now quite far above it.
maybe put a 15 degree one into the fernco coupling and put a 90 bend where the two 15 degrees are now, you might need to dig down a bit more from the fernco to the elbow
but without being there its hard to say
but without being there its hard to say
B
blawford
It isn't two 15 degrees currently, it is a 45 and and 15. But yeah, I see what you are thinking and it is something that I have tried before, I then came up with the idea I have now and it seemed to be better for a while.
The other thought I had was to dig a bit more out below the pipe so that it reduces the angle of the pipe, takes a bit of height out and swap the 15 for a 30?
you could try, like i have said before its hard to picture from a picture
B
blawford
For future reference, how close do I need to get it before I can call it a day? Part of what will slow me down is having to come here and verify what I have done is good before I continue. So I wouldn't mind knowing what is the maximum I can get away with in terms of height above floor level and angle!
If I can get the pipe to where I want it in relation to the wall and I am as close as I was here in terms of height above floor level and angle, could I cement it in place and deal with it later by either cutting it off flush or covering it with a decorative whatever.
Also, how do I go about testing it once I have everything in place, just run a load of water down it and see if anything leaks?
Would appreciate answers to the above and then I will get it finished off tomorrow in order to cement it on Friday, I really need to be done with this!
Last edited by a moderator:
Have you already lowered the pipe? Don`t wanna suffer blockages because the pipe doesn`t slope away like it should.
you could take a tiny bit out of that and still be ok (fall wise)
B
blawford
Only a tiny bit? How much is that?
If you have a sec can you answer my other questions? Cheers.
R
Radioman
I would go with what you've got, cut the pipe off square when it's all screeded in. To test it you could rough in the loo with it standing on a couple of boards and connected up then just poor a couple of buckets of water down to check for leaks. If you want to check it clears waste ok use a soft banana and 4 sheets of loo paper and 6 litres of water. You could use one of these http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/adjustable-bend-grey-sp560/50087
Before you concrete the pipe in, you will have to make sure you have enough straight pipe - on the vertical - for the pan connector to fit.
You would probably want 100 mm of pipe from the floor level to the first bend, so that whatever pan connector you use will seal properly.
You have heaps of fall to play with, so it may require re-doing.
You don't want to concrete it all in, finish the bathroom and then find you have problems - because that will mean ripping it all out and starting again.
Put he 15 degree bend in the rubber coupling and a 88 degree bend at the end.
Make sure the vertical riser is vertical.
You would probably want 100 mm of pipe from the floor level to the first bend, so that whatever pan connector you use will seal properly.
You have heaps of fall to play with, so it may require re-doing.
You don't want to concrete it all in, finish the bathroom and then find you have problems - because that will mean ripping it all out and starting again.
Put he 15 degree bend in the rubber coupling and a 88 degree bend at the end.
Make sure the vertical riser is vertical.
B
blawford
Thanks for the reply. I will probably go to Screwfix tonight and buy both a 30 and 88 degree bend and keep playing with it until it fits, the return whatever I don't end up using.
Good points about needing enough space before the first bend for the pan connector to seal, I hadn't thought of that and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have that much if I cut it off now.
When you say put the 15 degree bend in the rubber coupling, I have tried that but it brings the pipe out too far away from the wall, or do you mean the other way up?
Use the 15 degree bend to get the horizontal pipe more horizontal.
For fall, using your level, you only need a quarter of the bubble over the line - not very much. - I'm sure that will be adequate for your situation.
( Make sure you know which line )
When using the 88 degree bend, if the fall is right, the vertical pipe should be plumb.
That's why they make 88 degree bends, so when vertical the horizontal pipe has fall.
For fall, using your level, you only need a quarter of the bubble over the line - not very much. - I'm sure that will be adequate for your situation.
( Make sure you know which line )
When using the 88 degree bend, if the fall is right, the vertical pipe should be plumb.
That's why they make 88 degree bends, so when vertical the horizontal pipe has fall.
Official Sponsors of Plumbers Talk
Reply to the thread, titled "Moving Earthenware Waste in Concrete" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on Plumbers Forums.
Similar plumbing topics
- Question
- Question
- Question
We recommend City Plumbing Supplies, BES, and Plumbing Superstore for all plumbing supplies.
