Without looking at it, if I was there 11 days anywhere between £3/4K labour.
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Sheep riding? Is that what the welsh are all I g it nowadays?😛😛😀😀😀
Yeah gonna charge 3,600 labourWithout looking at it, if I was there 11 days anywhere between £3/4K labour.
To be honest mate. I know blokes that would charge 2.5k and 4.5k. I like to do a good job at a fair price. Bound to get more work out of it if you stay reasonable.Yeah gonna charge 3,600 labour
Yeah I guess.. don’t wanna undersell myself though.. there’s reasonable and then there’s cheap! I’d rather be slightly expensive than slightly cheap, people’s perception of cheap isn’t positive!To be honest mate. I know blokes that would charge 2.5k and 4.5k. I like to do a good job at a fair price. Bound to get more work out of it if you stay reasonable.
To be honest mate. I know blokes that would charge 2.5k and 4.5k. I like to do a good job at a fair price. Bound to get more work out of it if you stay reasonable.
Vessels are to high bud you cant access the schrader valves, pipe spacing is to tight for lagging , discharges which you sorted ?, your soldered joints need wipeing and cleaning up but i am being picky all the best kop
Vessel schrader valves are accessible, angle of photo is misleading; unless pipes are in an external location or loft I don’t lag pipework, and I can’t see any green on my joints.. there was a bit on the hot outlet immediately as it left the cylinder which I cleaned off today though 😀.. so not necessarily mistakes 🙂Vessels are to high bud you cant access the schrader valves, pipe spacing is to tight for lagging , discharges which you sorted ?, your soldered joints need wipeing and cleaning up but i am being picky all the best kop
I’ve not seen any cylinder pipework insulated unless in a loft or garage.. 😵The hot should be insulated
Scale reducer on the cold inlet? Nope.. didn’t think of that to be honest.. Agreed with the vents but with the pump valves and the filter valves you can isolate the boiler AAV’s - the cylinders ones.. will just have to do it live.. not a biggie to do live to be honest, just snatch it with a towel underneath 😀Nice piece of work, can only agree with the portfolio . I would have put some lever valves on the automatic air vents as they are leaking quite often. Did you actually put a scale reducer in ? What about insulation ?
It's in the regs for g3I’ve not seen any cylinder pipework insulated unless in a loft or garage.. 😵
Huh... furry muff!! At least there’s not much hot pipework exposedIt's in the regs for g3
I also think scale reducer is in the g3 regs ...but I was wrong before.It's in the regs for g3
I’ll have to check out the regs .. can’t see it being mandatory as scale is dependent on where you liveI also think scale reducer is in the g3 regs ...but I was wrong before.
I don’t want to put you down I guess neither of us.
For me well done job and hoping more to come for you.
It's in the regs for g3
I also think scale reducer is in the g3 regs ...but I was wrong before.
I don’t want to put you down I guess neither of us.
For me well done job and hoping more to come for you.
I think it worded funnilytue also valid for vented cylinders but how many insulated them 😀
also isnt it just for the first meter ?
I would have thought so.. nothing was mentioned in the MI’s for this cylinder.. and the Center brand are made by heatrae sadiaI think scale protection would be covered in the MIs
I would have thought so.. nothing was mentioned in the MI’s for this cylinder.. and the Center brand are made by heatrae sadia
Think I paid £570+vat for a 250ltrprice wise jay?
Think I paid £570+vat for a 250ltr
That’s what I thought.. same 25 year guarantee as a megaflo toothats good
THATS why benchmarks is asking for it 🙂 I guess if you are in a hard water area above 200 you require one that’s what benchmark says ... can’t remember 100% but you definitely have to fit onenot true totally also a scale reducer wont work for an unvented cylinder you would need a softener
THATS why benchmarks is asking for it 🙂 I guess if you are in a hard water area above 200 you require one that’s what benchmark says . can’t remember 100% but you definitely have to fit one
Lol you know what.. I was really excited to do it as it was my first fresh system and the wiring was no issue.. wired it up, switched it on and everything worked!! Happy days! Had to check the cylinder stat wiring as I’ve never done that before but yeah.. probably the easiest part of the whole job.. who’d have thought eh 😉
Cheers last!! An electrician wired up the immersion lol immersion’s don’t draw more than 13 amps, why would you need a 20 amp switch?Apart from the bits and bobs others have mentioned it looks good.
The only wee thing I would add is that the immersion would be best on a 20 Amp Switch as opposed to a 13 Amp switched fused spur.
Cheers last!! An electrician wired up the immersion lol immersion’s don’t draw more than 13 amps, why would you need a 20 amp switch?
Makes sense.. thanks for clarifying Best 🙂I actually had the same point about immersion switches on this forum and it was clarified by some of the more electrical experienced guys, maybe Shaun.
The immersion works on the limit of 13amp, so a spur switch that is 13amp might burn out at the internal switches (for neutral and live) or at the fuse.
It depends on if the supply is 240 volt or if it is lower, because the amps raise if voltage lowers I think.
Normally you will have 15 or 16 amp fuse or the mcb fuses at electric consumer unit and then any switches on that for the immersion should be 20 amp 2 pole switches.
Reply to the thread, titled "My first cylinder install with boiler" which is posted in Boiler Advice Forum on Plumbers Forums.
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