OK for waste to run uphill a short distance?

[ShaunCorbs]

Agree with him but you can combine the shower and basin in 11/2 as it's very unlikely your going to be running the basin taps when someone's having a shower even then it would be fine

 

[trf0412]

Agree with him but you can combine the shower and basin in 11/2 as it's very unlikely your going to be running the basin taps when someone's having a shower even then it would be fine

On that basis, couldn't the bath waste also be combined with the shower and basin wastes, since it's extremely unlikely that we'd be emptying the bath whilst having a shower? Anyway, I got the impression the primary reason for separate wastes is to avoid water in one waste getting sucked out by another appliance's draining.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

On that basis, couldn't the bath waste also be combined with the shower and basin wastes, since it's extremely unlikely that we'd be emptying the bath whilst having a shower? Anyway, I got the impression the primary reason for separate wastes is to avoid water in one waste getting sucked out by another appliance's draining.

You would have to up the waste to 2" pipe but you could and stick an anti vac trap on the basin

 

[trf0412]

Ah, I see, ok... so maybe just as easy to run 2 separate wastes? The one from the bath can go straight to the soil pipe. The shower and basin wastes will now have to drop below the joists and run tight along the lounge ceiling and be boxed in.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Ah, I see, ok... so maybe just as easy to run 2 separate wastes? The one from the bath can go straight to the soil pipe. The shower and basin wastes will now have to drop below the joists and run tight along the lounge ceiling and be boxed in.

Yea or run the lot in 2" and box it in and strengthen the joists

 

[trf0412]

So, new plumbing firm is coming tomorrow to re-do all the waste pipes and fix other issues. They will leave me to fit the new flooring over the weekend (not quite sure why, but I'm more than happy to do it and can at least be sure of what's happening if I do it, esp. now I've discovered the muppet that was our previous "plumber" screwed down the 18mm OSB with about 25mm screws!!).

As a result of all this, I now get to choose what flooring to put down. I was thinking I would obviously get marine ply, but I've now seen the huge cost difference and I'm wondering if standard ply is almost as good? And where would OSB3 sit in the rankings between chipboard / marine ply / non-marine ply / OSB 3?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

What's going on top of it ?

 

[trf0412]

What's going on top of it ?

Porcelain tiles (if you are asking about the floor covering, rather than bathroom furniture/sanitary wear). I think these will be on top of a Ditra mat.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Porcelain tiles (if you are asking about the floor covering, rather than bathroom furniture/sanitary wear). I think these will be on top of a Ditra mat.

I would use 18mm marine ply glued and screwed down (don't hit any pipes wires or wastes) as you don't want problems later on

You can go belts and braces by using some 6mm ply to stager perpendicular to the 18mm m ply joins/ joints

 

[trf0412]

Ok... seems to be about £100 a sheet, as opposed to £20 a sheet for OSB or around £35 for non-marine ply, though! Anywhere I can get it cheaper?

Apart from ability to maintain its strength if it gets wet, are there any other advantages to marine ply over same thickness standard ply?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You can get it cheaper try a builders merchant/ dewson or travis etc around 45 a sheet 8x4

And no just water resistant

 

[trf0412]

If I can get it at £45 a sheet, I'll happily go with marine ply. But at £100 I may be tempted to go with standard ply if it's equivalent in strength.

Even standard ply would be a better choice than OSB though, right? Or are they much of a muchness?

 

[trf0412]

New plumbers are also going to cut out a small section of the hot & cold shower feeds to allow them to put in copper elbows and to straighten the pipes. Currently they aren't even level, and the copper currently comes straight out of a connector which goes directly onto a plastic pipe. The guy who came to look at the job said the copper pipes would be clipped in the wall to make sure they don't move.

But, my question is, what can the pipes be clipped to, given that they are in one of those awful 1960s corrugated cardboard style partition walls?

 

[Best]

Good quality plywood would highly likely be good enough if everything else done correctly, if you want to do a decent job at not the highest cost. Just make sure the plywood is not softwood centred. You need good quality top grade all hardwood plywood.
I think the main difference with marine plywood is it uses waterproof glue.

 

[huddster]

Is this 'new plumber' just you but with a bit more knowledge gained from the forum to correct the work you messed up first time around, if so bravo, a wonderfully told story.

No no I'm just being cynical, good luck with your 'new plumber' I'm sure he will find a way to secure the pipe work and if he does bodge it ill expect he will take a picture for you to upload on here and then someone can tell you, I'm mean the plumber how to do it properly.

 

[Ric2013]

Is this 'new plumber' just you but with a bit more knowledge gained from the forum to correct the work you messed up first time around, if so bravo, a wonderfully told story.

Or the OP simply has become paranoid, having had a bad experience the first time around, hence questions like 'what should the pipes be clipped to'? We'll never know.

 

[trf0412]

Is this 'new plumber' just you but with a bit more knowledge gained from the forum to correct the work you messed up first time around, if so bravo, a wonderfully told story.

No no I'm just being cynical, good luck with your 'new plumber' I'm sure he will find a way to secure the pipe work and if he does bodge it ill expect he will take a picture for you to upload on here and then someone can tell you, I'm mean the plumber how to do it properly.

Yeah, since coming on here a few days ago my plumbing skills have come on in leaps and bounds. Think I'm just about qualified now. Check out what I achieved today!

So, the top half of the cast iron soil pipe has been cut out and replaced with plastic. All the waste pipes have been re-run so that each appliance has its own waste direct to the soil pipe, and amazingly this time around with a fall (3rd time lucky!). The shower pipes now come out of the wall on copper elbows. They have also been set at a lower height which will allow the riser and shower head to not disappear into the loft!! I have absolutely no idea what I (sorry, Plumber No. 1) was thinking there! The hot and cold feeds for the towel radiator, bath, sink and toilet (i.e. everything else!) also had to be tweaked. The pipework going to the shower has also be rerun so that the shower waste doesn't push down on it. All pipes have also been clipped to the joists.

All in all, I think this is a much, much better job and it's now very clear just how terrible the 1st "plumber's" work was.

[For the avoidance of doubt, I'm just playing along with the cynicism (if you can't beat 'em, join 'em), but neither the previous work nor the remedial work were carried out by me.]

 

[trf0412]

I should have mentioned that the shower waste isn't complete yet, hence the waste pipe that suddenly stops. It will be finished after the shower tray has been correctly re-laid on sand & cement.

Or the OP simply has become paranoid, having had a bad experience the first time around, hence questions like 'what should the pipes be clipped to'? We'll never know.

Did I really ask that?! Maybe I did... been a stressful few days. 🙂

 

[trf0412]

New plumbers used Hep2O, hence the sudden change in fittings. There are a handful of the original plumber's Speedfit fittings still in place, but I'd say 80% of what he'd done was ripped out and redone.

Also, I got new plumbers to check previous guy had used the inserts that someone on here mentioned and he had at least got that bit right.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

spot on looks lovely

2 points

1: copper shower pipes need gaffa taping so the plaster doesnt touch the bare copper also tape the ends so no rubbish goes in them

2: shower pipes need clipping or foaming in to stop movement when plaster comes etc