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View the thread, titled "Plumber mait putty" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

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Great for stuff where there might be small movement. So pan connectors, flush cones, basically toilets. There's an art to using it and getting it to do what you want. I find once it's in place fast very light tapping with fingers tips moulds it well.
 
Throw that crap away you don't need it, if its a basin your fitting go to Toolstation and get a basin mate ( 37534 page 328 £1.17 ) it's a cone shaped block of rubber, put some washing up liquid on it to help slide her in and bang job done with no mess.

Basin mates are good, but you should still be sealing the top of the waste to the sink,
So why not just buy a tube of forever white, your going to be soliconing the basin to the wall anyway
 
Basin mate looks pretty chunky, I bet it won't leave enough threads for the trap on some jobs... Silicone it is for me, I used to use plumbers mate until I saw the light 🙂
 
Basin mate looks pretty chunky, I bet it won't leave enough threads for the trap on some jobs... Silicone it is for me, I used to use plumbers mate until I saw the light 🙂

Basin mates are made for when the basin is too thin for the waste
 
I remember when it was all putty and a self cut lead washer.
To install the waste was a job in itself! :smile:
When silicone became popular it was like the invention of the wheel.
 
I remember when it was all putty and a self cut lead washer.
To install the waste was a job in itself! :smile:
When silicone became popular it was like the invention of the wheel.

with a screw driver or it you were posh a chisel/ tin snips 😀
 
with a screw driver or it you were posh a chisel/ tin snips 😀

Piece of lead on top of timber & set the waste thread end on it & scratch the diameter on the lead with a screwdriver. Then a hammer & screwdriver inside the line to cut the hole.
Beat the lead flat and, using a round file get the hole a nice tight fit for the waste.
Trim the size of the overall lead with tin snips or a knife.
Boss white the lead a little & then stick the putty on it.
Put it & the waste on the basin & gently hammer lead roughly down in place.
Add a little more Boss White to this side of lead (to seal & lubricate) & tighten waste nut, while keeping the overflow slot in line with basin overflow.
Hammer lead around the area. Trim any extra lead with a knife if needed & clean excess putty both sides of basin.

And people think adding silicone & a washer is a nuisance nowadays!
 
Piece of lead on top of timber & set the waste thread end on it & scratch the diameter on the lead with a screwdriver. Then a hammer & screwdriver inside the line to cut the hole.
Beat the lead flat and, using a round file get the hole a nice tight fit for the waste.
Trim the size of the overall lead with tin snips or a knife.
Boss white the lead a little & then stick the putty on it.
Put it & the waste on the basin & gently hammer lead roughly down in place.
Add a little more Boss White to this side of lead (to seal & lubricate) & tighten waste nut, while keeping the overflow slot in line with basin overflow.
Hammer lead around the area. Trim any extra lead with a knife if needed & clean excess putty both sides of basin.

And people think adding silicone & a washer is a nuisance nowadays!

+1 done that a few times you can also use stag as well
 
You should get a rubber or foam washer for the waste and yes you still put the back nut on after the basin mate. You dont need anything else have faith. If it's clean it will seal, some basins are a little out of square so if it don't seal the 1st time use L-SX but I have got everyone in the last few years to seal 1st time without using anything.
 
I remember when it was all putty and a self cut lead washer.
To install the waste was a job in itself! :smile:
When silicone became popular it was like the invention of the wheel.

In that case you might be able to shed some light on what the hell that putty stuff is used to seal a tap in a tap hole was which becomes harder that any substance known to man after 20 years....
 
In that case you might be able to shed some light on what the hell that putty stuff is used to seal a tap in a tap hole was which becomes harder that any substance known to man after 20 years....

plumbers putty and paint
 
it can't be, surely. it's not meant to set. how does it transform into epoxy resin after a couple of decades?
 
In that case you might be able to shed some light on what the hell that putty stuff is used to seal a tap in a tap hole was which becomes harder that any substance known to man after 20 years....

Putty or plaster was used. I never used either because they both, as you say, hardened.
Putty, if it gets years to dry out will harden like a piece of Flint. If you ever remove a toilet pan that's been bedded with putty on a wood floor for decades, you will know that.
Worst thing about putty on taps is the oil in it will ooze out & down the tap thread into the nut & set rock hard also. I found I had to gently heat the nut & thread to get the nut off & then drill & chop at the putty filled space around threads of tap to get it out.
I used the rubber washers mainly I think in the Durassic period before silicone or the rubber fix-a-taps (basins) appeared on Earth.
 
it can't be, surely. it's not meant to set. how does it transform into epoxy resin after a couple of decades?

Putty did eventually set. The panes of glass fitted in metal window frames were done in putty and the rock hard putty stays stuck to the frames when you try to replace glass.
 
You should get a rubber or foam washer for the waste and yes you still put the back nut on after the basin mate. You dont need anything else have faith. If it's clean it will seal, some basins are a little out of square so if it don't seal the 1st time use L-SX but I have got everyone in the last few years to seal 1st time without using anything.

Surely if your going to put lsx on the basin mate, you might as well just save the money buying it and use silicone
 
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