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View the thread, titled "Plumbing in Shower Pump" which is posted in Showers and Wetrooms Advice on UK Plumbers Forums.

J

jonfog

I went to plumb a Salamander ESP 80 CPV pump in today but was unable to install the S' flange as the fitting at the top of the HWC was a 22mm/ 3/4'' male fitting, which was an integral part of the cylinder i.e. couldn't be unscrewed. I tried various ways to adapt this to except the inch tread of the S' flange but it wouldn't take it and I actually couldn't get the body of the S' flange inside the existing cylinder fitting anyway. Is there any type of fitting I can use to attach to the cylinder, which will provide the necessary air separation needed for the pump to work correctly? The hot water is heated by economy 7 electric heating so both immersion outlets are in use.

Thanks in advance.
 
don't bother with a flange!

just tee downwards from the horizontal section between top of cylinder and the vent tee (then use ur bender to get the pipe up in the roofspace if necessary), or on the vertical section of pipe below the vent tee. this guarentees air free water delivery because air bubbles cannot travel downwards!
this method has the added advantage of not restricting the flow the same way that a flange will and thus affects shower performance. and is also the cheapest.

KJ
 
don't bother with a flange!

just tee downwards from the horizontal section between top of cylinder and the vent tee (then use ur bender to get the pipe up in the roofspace if necessary), or on the vertical section of pipe below the vent tee. this guarentees air free water delivery because air bubbles cannot travel downwards!
this method has the added advantage of not restricting the flow the same way that a flange will and thus affects shower performance. and is also the cheapest.

KJ

Air bubbles cannot travel downwards eh? That's a new one on me. What if there's 2 bar of shower pump sucking them downwards?

And an Essex flange does not restrict flow whatsover. Your method is the least favoured by all pump manufacturers for good reasons: shared services and the potential for air ingress.
 
IMG00093-20110428-0909.jpgIMG00090-20110428-0908.jpg
This is how I've plumbed it in for now. The top pipe is the hot feed into the pump and the bottom the pumped water out. The pipework at the top of the cylinder remains the same with a 450mm horizontal run which then T's off up to the vent and down for the HW which now goes into the pump. The pump does all the hot water in the property. As it is the pump works fine but I’m worried about invalidating the warranty with it not having an appropriate flange fitting?
 
Warranty won't cover that, air will be sucked in off the vent pipe. The only acceptable non-flange fitting is generally to tee off straight after the connection on the top of the cylinder at a 45 degree downward angle. Even that isn't ideal.

What you've got is pretty much what I've had for the past two years and my pump has just crapped out.
 
don't bother with a flange!

just tee downwards from the horizontal section between top of cylinder and the vent tee (then use ur bender to get the pipe up in the roofspace if necessary), or on the vertical section of pipe below the vent tee. this guarentees air free water delivery because air bubbles cannot travel downwards!
this method has the added advantage of not restricting the flow the same way that a flange will and thus affects shower performance. and is also the cheapest.

KJ

This is how I usually do it, & haven't had a problem yet.
 
I spoke to the manufactures and they said the only way not invalidate the warrenty was to install an Essex flange, which I have done. Thanks all for your help.
 
My old power shower (Showerforce Mirage) was bathroom wall mounted with the pump unit inbuilt. At that time a lot of years ago the manufacturer recommended an essex flange.
I thought what the heck and just teed into the 22mm pipe coming from top of cylinder,difference is I used 15mm pipe to the shower.
Never had any problems.
I am now fitting a 1.5 bar twin impellor pump in my loft space and plan to use same method, but will tilt pipe to 45 degrees as recommended.
Could you tell me if 15mm pipe is suitable or will i have to replace it with 22mm.

eckmac
 
with smaller pumps I wouldnt be to worried about having to connect it off the feed as a last resort, the salamander 80 cpv is a big moma and I wouldnt like to connect it without a warrix or an essex, how ever, if it works ok then...........
 

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