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View the thread, titled "Shower tray recommendations" which is posted in Showers and Wetrooms Advice on UK Plumbers Forums.

Hi.
We want to replace our shower tray. I've been doing lots of research trying to establish which trays are best. The current tray, I think is one of the really lightweight ones, is it acrylic? I like the idea of replacing with another acrylic, because it's lightweight and im guessing easy to install. I say this because when I replaced the tray in the ensuite about 5 years ago, I seem to recall it simply glued to a plywood base. If I recall properly, it was very very flat underneath, giving it full contact across the entire area of the plywood. This to me spelled 'fully supported'. Having said all that, I was worried about installing what might be considered by some to be a not very robust tray, that may cause issues further in the future. In the end I fitted an Eastbrook Volente. I think it was a stone resin tray. It was very heavy. And I bed it on concrete. This was a faff because there wasn't enough room to swing a cat.

I have been considering the Mira Flight, because according to the instructions they can simply be glue to the base using silicone. However, they don't manufacture a tray with the hole in the center, by the front edge. Like in the image below.
I prefer this hole position, because it gives much easier access should it be required in the future.

So, can you guys recommend any good trays please.

Are the lightweight acrylic trays really that bad?

Thanks as always. Your help has been invaluable over these last week's
 

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Personally I wouldn't fit a acrylic tray they rarely last for than a few years and start to break down and cause problems , I had a similar issue and fitted a fibre glass tray from B&Q came with built in adjustable legs . Kop
 
For that size MX Elements has the waste half way on the long side as you wish it.

I have fitted lots and lots of these trays (various sizes including 1200 x 800, and up to 1800 x 900) with no problems.

Using their leg kits, my own wooden platforms, set in sand/cement as the situation dictates.
 
For that size MX Elements has the waste half way on the long side as you wish it.

I have fitted lots and lots of these trays (various sizes including 1200 x 800, and up to 1800 x 900) with no problems.

Using their leg kits, my own wooden platforms, set in sand/cement as the situation dictates.
Hi Ben-gee. If using your own "wooden platform" with the MX Elements tray, what is the procedure? Does it still require setting on a thin layer of mortar? Or is it similar to the Mira Flight than can be stuck down with silicone?
Thought I'd ask you, before trying to find their installation instructions
Thanks again.
 
Use flexible tile adhesive. Make sure you clean the back of the tray first, they are often dusty from grinding the waste and leg positions flat, and or they have gel like residue from mould release.
 
Use flexible tile adhesive. Make sure you clean the back of the tray first, they are often dusty from grinding the waste and leg positions flat, and or they have gel like residue from mould release.
Hi Ben-gee.
Sorry for my ignorance, obviously I have no prior experience with this type of tray, but why is it that these types of trays have legs sets, which when used obviously do not support every square millimetre of the tray, yet if legs are not used, according to the MX instructions the tray has to be bed on the a layer of mortar. Not sure if you understand what 8m getting at. Especially if the base of the tray is hollow to some degree.
 
They are quite a good design, having strengthened ribs and flat pad areas to take the legs set - and indeed I have used these on dozens (maybe a hundred?!) times.
I’m sure they’d be fine if bedded on mortar just in these areas but the practicality of doing that would not be easy to achieve. So by stipulating a full bed of mortar there is a better chance of success. Also an actual full bed as in 100% coverage would give a better support if something were dropped, much the same as floor tiles, better to have no hollow spots.
This is not essential for normal use hence the allowance of a leg kit raised application where necessary.
Honestly this is a good tray with the ribs and thick pads it’s great for raised scenarios.
 
So, I'm a little confused. Ben Gee. I do have to raise the tray, so I was originally going to place some OSB3 on top of some new 4" X 2" joists. I was then going to sit the tray on a bed of mortar on top of the OSB3. However, I thought that the legs would be much easier, especially with such a heavy tray, in a very confined space. But then started thinking on a 1200 X 800 tray, how do yo get to the rear legs to adjust them accurately? The last time a set up a pulley, fastened to the joists above to carefully drop the tray in under control
 

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Put a level on the floor and shim it up level. If it’s say 3mm out left to right, then have the left leg 3mm longer than the right.
I set the four corners and purposely have the intermediate legs a fraction too short so they don’t interfere levelling it by the corners. Then wind the intermediate legs down to touch the floor.
The legs can be adjusted by sticking a long slotted screwdriver Into the ribs and turning them around. Bear in mind if you have done accurate initial measuring they adjustment needed will be zero or very little.
If necesssary I use timber blocks and windbags to take the weight of the tray off the legs to make adjustments easier.
Even if you don’t use this method you have to get yourself at least a pair of hedgehog air wedges - they are so useful for many tasks!
 

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