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I havent got difficulties to use leaded solder but I prefer using unleaded. I am just used to unleaded for years. I can feel the difference when using leaded solder.
It's just my preference that's all it is. I guess Yorkshire fittings are ideal when having an issue with stopping the water.

I think it is just as you say, whatever you are used to.
I actually find unleaded soldering an entirely different job to using leaded and more difficult.
Rarely soldering many joints nowadays, so that doesn't help me.
 
I think it is just as you say, whatever you are used to.
I actually find unleaded soldering an entirely different job to using leaded and more difficult.
Rarely soldering many joints nowadays, so that doesn't help me.
That's what it is Gary, it's just the matter of getting used to it. But, i am trying now to get off the soldering and use more crimping.
 
Leaded and unleaded are different as lead seems wetter than lead free, we do a lot of brazing and its similar between copper phosphorus and silver brazing. Its simply down to the temperature (and method of course)
 
Personally (stands by for getting ragged...) I only ever use SR fittings where i have a choice. My technique is to clean pipe, clean inside of fitting, EVEN WHEN BRAND NEW, flux pipe only and heat gently. Just after flux starts bubbling solder flows and gives nice neat ring.
 
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Personally (stands by for getting ragged...) I only ever use SR fittings where i have a choice. My technique is to clean pipe, clean inside of fitting, EVEN WHEN BRAND NEW, flux pipe only and heat gently. Just after flux starts bubbling solder flows and gives nice neat ring.

Nothing wrong with that. I used Yorkshire fittings only for most years I have worked. They are an exellent fitting, despite my earlier slight criticisms of them.
I tend to use end feed now, but still mostly use Yorkshire for 15mm fittings.
They do need well cleaned.
 
Glad it's not just me that has had this problem. And, yes, I tend to find I do a neater job with lead-free too.
Two known defects with my soldering technique are using too little flux and too little heat. With less flux you get less running and with less heat you often cook the fitting/ burn the flux before the solder starts to run. Which could be what you are doing. I've found that a nearly empty gas can gives less heat for a similar size flame...?
Possibly as a result of my shoddy technique, my preference in fluxes is (in order): Fluxite, Yorkshire Flux, Everflux, LaCo.
 
Glad it's not just me that has had this problem. And, yes, I tend to find I do a neater job with lead-free too.
Two known defects with my soldering technique are using too little flux and too little heat. With less flux you get less running and with less heat you often cook the fitting/ burn the flux before the solder starts to run. Which could be what you are doing. I've found that a nearly empty gas can gives less heat for a similar size flame...?
Possibly as a result of my shoddy technique, my preference in fluxes is (in order): Fluxite, Yorkshire Flux, Everflux, LaCo.
Never used fluxite or Yorkshire flux. It seems that the fluxite is good quality flux. Perhaps I will give that a go next time.

However, I think there is not a big difference in finishing joints when using flux. It is more down to the plumber who is soldering. I definitely solder slickly different when having my german flux Flussmittel Weichlot-Paste Fitting-Lötpaste 250 g Lötfitting Kupferrohr Kupfer | eBay
 
Fluxite comes into its own when there is any possibility of water running into the joint because it isn't water based so it doesn't wash away when a small quantity runs down the pipe you were sure was fully drained. I also left some on a pipe for five days to see the effect. Unlike Laco and Everflux, it didn't dry, but neither was there any green staining.

I don't find the type of flux makes much difference to the finish, agreed.
 
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What's the advantage of that German flux?
I think there isn't much advantage, the only thing which is great when water runs onto the paste it doesn't get washed away. You also need very little paste on the copper pipe to get a great nice silver ring. I haven't used it now for more than 5 years and I think it could have changed in quality. I am quite sure if it's heated it doesn't leave running stains, but don't want to promise. I guess it is with everything. If you get used to one thing you don't like changing things. I personally love this product it's definitely worth for soldering.

What's your experience with fluxite ?
 
Fluxite is very similar to Yorkshire flux and they are both 'grease' based, although it is not actually grease.
Advantages are it isn't water based, isn't highly corrosive, so won't do much harm to interior or exterior of pipe is left uncleaned.
It helps the solder run well because Fluxite flows really well.
 
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Fluxite. It's the most effective flux known, according to the tin, and I can't disagree.

At college there was an old tin with missing lid and a nail stuck in the flux. It had gone thick, like earwax and I tried it. It worked well and, at college, became 'my' tin of flux (they actually offered it to me in the end).

I had a tub of LaCo I was using for my own work that was running low and I decided to get some Fluxite too. It's still thick, but not as thick as the colleg tub. I still haven't finished the LaCo because I much prefer the Fluxite. If you use very little, you can get a finish where the solder is almost invisible and doesn't run out of the joint at all, if you've the time.

I'd like to try Templars Telux too.
 
Possibly as a result of my shoddy technique, my preference in fluxes is (in order): Fluxite, Yorkshire Flux, Everflux, LaCo.

I think your preferences in fluxes are really good. I would probably say same, and have the LaCo because it is supposed to be non toxic.
However, I wouldn't use the Everflux. Despite it being a lot of plumbers preference, I know it is acid based and highly corrosive, so I will never want to use it
 
I think your preferences in fluxes are really good. I would probably say same, and have the LaCo because it is supposed to be non toxic.
However, I wouldn't use the Everflux. Despite it being a lot of plumbers preference, I know it is acid based and highly corrosive, so I will never want to use it
I somehow use everflux. I was thinking it does a good job. But, as mentioned I will try fluxite perhaps it will be great then I will change my flux 🙂
 
I somehow use everflux. I was thinking it does a good job. But, as mentioned I will try fluxite perhaps it will be great then I will change my flux 🙂

It is the corrosive nature of Everflux that I worry about.
The Fluxite is an old, well proven flux.
Note Ron that Fluxite, or similar grease based fluxes, can apparently burn easier at higher temperatures often needed for soldering lead free. Although I have used it and find it okay, unless madly overheating a fitting.
 
It is the corrosive nature of Everflux that I worry about.
The Fluxite is an old, well proven flux.
Note Ron that Fluxite, or similar grease based fluxes, can apparently burn easier at higher temperatures often needed for soldering lead free. Although I have used it and find it okay, unless madly overheating a fitting.
So you are saying when using the fluxite it's better to not use as much heat as i am more likely to burn the flux? I still will give it a go perhaps I will like it. I am going to order soon from Germany as I really think they are very good.
 
So you are saying when using the fluxite it's better to not use as much heat as i am more likely to burn the flux? I still will give it a go perhaps I will like it. I am going to order soon from Germany as I really think they are very good.

Just saying to expect the flux to burn if you overdo the heat.
But I find Fluxite will not burn if you solder properly.
That German flux paste I must read about if I can find details in English
 

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