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DB1000A3-674C-4E9F-A9D3-9B246ADD13BA.jpeg
 
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OK I think I'm now sorted many thanks everyone 🙂

All following with Laco flux. Pics are all Hi-Res.

First tried turning Superfire2 (Mapp) right down to point it is tricky to relight (and hardly any bright blue flame). Took a long time to heat the joint, and ended up with blueing(?) under the joint, and poor solder finish again:

Photo by Roy_6666

. . . Torch also getting hot (not melting though 🙂 like the large turbine tip).

Also tried Propane/Butane mix on nice low setting, but again poor joint finish with non-leaded solder.

So switched to Lead and with the Superfire2 (small jet/tip) on a low setting, but some bright blue, and at a level that it will relight ok:

Photo by Roy_6666

Finally got a good result.

In following picture the Leaded one is at the bottom of the picture. Please ignore the right hand side joint on the fitting because I went back and dabbed on a bit more solder there out of interest (Compare all the left hand joints)

Photo by Roy_6666

So, many thanks I think I'm now "good to go" on my project next week, and got enough Lead left to do that, and a few more practice joints.

In future if I try non-leaded again at some point where would you recommend I buy from please. Similarly if I need more lead what would you recommend.

Many thanks,

Roy

P.S. I'd like to post my project separately, but any chance of being able to add the pictures properly in-line now. Is there someone I can ask for that now.
 
Needs to be unleaded if it’s beung used on water

My first project (for a good few years) is the feed to the downstairs loo, so I hope I'd be forgiven for using lead one last time, also the rest of the 1995 house is I guess done with lead (Although I'm sure using lead anywhere on the cold system is strictly still against the regs for anyone confused).

However I do want to move on to sinks so thats why I was having a go with lead free. I'll try to get to screwfix on Saturday and get some Fernox lead free solder if that sounds ok.

Thanks,

Roy
 
As far as I’m aware mate. You haven’t been able to use leaded solder on any pipework connected to your drinking water since the mid 1980’s you should not be using that on pipework in you house apart from heating or gas pipework.
 
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As far as I’m aware mate. You haven’t been able to use leaded solder on any pipework connected to your drinking water since the mid 1980’s you should not be using that on pipework in you house apart from heating or gas pipework.

Many thanks, that's what got me to try lead free. I'll try to get some Fernox lead free from screwfix on Saturday, if Fernox solder sounds ok.
 
Haven't read all the posts but the way I solder...

Clean pipes and fittings.
Add flux to fitting (flux to only pipe if gas)
15mm heat the fitting
Once upto temp tap solder on backside of fitting so isn't visible, always work from top to bottom literally only a few mm of solder needed. You will find a bottom joint will need hardly any solder due to solder running down from top joint(people will disagree...)

22mm same process although I rotate torch back and forth to disperse heat evenly around fitting

Turbo extreme torch with mapp gas


2lnvok5.jpg
 
I use the fernox stuff. It’s good. Screwfix can be quite cheap on it also.

Big thanks to all.

Just managed to get to screwfix to get some Fernox Lead free (Frys powerflux).

Joints now look as good if not better than leaded ones, so real big thanks for that.

Takes me back 40 years to my childhood when I first learned to solder wires using a poker stuck in the coal fire and a gungy tin of orangy brown Fry's Fluxite. The one with the Red Devil on the tin. Still got that listed on Amazon, but unavail:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Solder-Connection-20423-Fluxite-Soldering/dp/B01MRTWID3

Anyone used that in the past on any type of plumbing?

Don't worry I'll be sticking with the new stuff 🙂

Thanks again to all,

Roy
 
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As above to much heat and a bit to much solder .kop

View attachment 37827

Nice looking work.

Yes thanks I have learned to turn the heat down (which originally I was concerned would end in flux burning because of length of time). I can see now low gas does take practice and confidence but is what you want on real jobs where access may not be ideal. So worth learning, rather than the quick blast. I can see pros under pressure to build new housing estates having to use the quick method.

My problem was duff Oatey lead free solder. Have switched to screwfix Fernox (Frys Powerflux) and now goes on better than my old reel of lead.

I do still have to learn verticals but first project next week just a horizontal elbow.

Many thanks
 
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Haven't read all the posts but the way I solder...

Clean pipes and fittings.
Add flux to fitting (flux to only pipe if gas)
15mm heat the fitting
Once upto temp tap solder on backside of fitting so isn't visible, always work from top to bottom literally only a few mm of solder needed. You will find a bottom joint will need hardly any solder due to solder running down from top joint(people will disagree...)

22mm same process although I rotate torch back and forth to disperse heat evenly around fitting

Turbo extreme torch with mapp gas


2lnvok5.jpg

Many thanks.

My problem was the solder I was using - see other replies.

Agree with verticals - from little I've done on my training piece. I noticed when doing Tees that if you do topmost first then solder can appear at the lower connections, so I'd then concentrate on any bits with no solder.
 

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