Tifell boiler water problem

[soneva]

Hello,


First post 🙂 Hopefully in the right place!


I hope you guys can help to what could be a simple problem, but then again, it could be a big expensive problem!! Looked everywhere for the answer but still remains the same.


We have a 3 year old Tifell Eurofell M40 oil boiler which heats water on demand. Currently the central heating side is turned off by closing the inlet and outlet pipes at the back of the boiler and also the switch on the front panel is set to just produce hot tap water not hot tap water and central heating. I guess this rules out any thermostat settings problems on the radiators and the remote central heating controller.


As it is cold weather now the boiler does not produce hot water as it used to do, it only produces luke warm water with the tempreture dial on the front panel turned up to max. The tempreture gauge on the front panel displays 67 degrees when not burning whereas in the summer it was normally displaying 78 degrees. The boiler pressure has been at a constant 1.2 bar for well over 6 months. There are no errors displayed and the boiler comes on and goes off as expected without any unusual noises or signs of burning incorrectly.


Can anyone suggest what I can check/do to make the boiler produce hotter water? Is it some sort of internal theremostat maybe? Any help would be massively appreciated not only by me but by my two daughters, they think I have lowered the water tempreture on purpose!


Thank you for any assistance,

 

[John Lloyd]

Hi, I have recently been faulting a TifellEurofell 40M which was only producing luke warm domestic water although the central heating rads were getting very hot as necessary. After desludging the whole system, cleaning it and then adding an inhibitor to the water, then I took a look at the motorized valve and also at the heat exchanger inside the boiler. The valve operated easily using the manual lever on the side of the actuator and seemed to be fine. The heat exchanger's ports however I found were still a bit corroded so I then soaked both primary and secondary sections using a calcium disolving liquid. The next day I replaced the valve and the heat exchanger then ran up the boiler.

I switched the front panel control, to the domestic hot water position (rather than the hot water AND central heating radiator setting). With the top off the boiler, I felt the primary (large pipes) of the heat exchanger coming up to temperature and the hot water output port similarly begin to heat up. As soon as I ran the kitchen hot tap however I found that the flow of cold (feed) water through the heat exchanger very quickly reduced the hot water output port to luke warm only. The primary side of the heat exchanger connected to the pump remained very hot however the other side connected to the motorized valve rapidly went cool. The problem was resolved however when I manually operated the valve (operating lever tucked close up to the side of the boiler casing) and hey ho we now have a continuing flow of hot boiler water through the heat exchanger primary. Looks like my motorized valve actuator is dead so have now ordered another complete motorized valve unit.

Could just be your problem as well.
Regards,
John