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L

loftybloke

Hi All

I'm hoping for some advice please. I noticed a drip from the top of the valve in the pipe which fills the cistern of our toilet.

18739634_10212992974329162_9014247867735732015_n.jpg


I tried to tighten it with a pair of adjustable wrenches but it doesn't seem to matter which way I turn which nut, it still leaks when i open the valve again. I (of course) seem to have made the leak faster by trying to fix it.

Can anyone help please?
 
Are you sure it's the valve and that it's not leaking down the nylon thread from the cistern?

If it is the valve, there's a fibre washer betwen the valve and nylon fill valve.
Isolate and replace it.

same as;
Fibre washers 1/2 to fit 15mm tap connector per 10


Be carefull screwing the nut back onto the valve, it's easy to cross thread it.
 
Snowhead, yes the water comes up from the bit with the screw to open/close the valve below the nut. The nylon bit isn't wet.

Shaun is that easy for a complete novice to do?

Thanks
 
Are you sure it's the valve and that it's not leaking down the nylon thread from the cistern?

If it is the valve, there's a fibre washer betwen the valve and nylon fill valve.
Isolate and replace it.

same as;
Fibre washers 1/2 to fit 15mm tap connector per 10


Be carefull screwing the nut back onto the valve, it's easy to cross thread it.
Thanks. Forgive me for being ignorant, but the water is coming from below the top nut of the valve rather than where it meets the nylon thread. Would your solution stop this too?
 
Snowhead, yes the water comes up from the bit with the screw to open/close the valve below the nut. The nylon bit isn't wet
Thanks
If you mean that smaller sized pipe just under the top nut then it is time to start again with a complete new valve. At this moment in time you don't need a new fill valve.
 
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Enter compression service valve on B&Q site. Part number 05271948
Nut and olive one end with nut and fibre washer the other end
 
I definitely would go with a brass threaded fill valve as the plastic ones cause a lot of trouble in the future.
 
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If it ain`t broke don`t fix it! Some people are living on the breadline now.
That's true, but if you got a couple of pounds left then I'd change both parts.
I clearly understand your point @rpm and agree it's the breadline
 
If I'm honest guys I don't know which bits you're talking about 🙂
I'm going to have to ring someone as I'm not massively confident replacing the leaky bit if i'm honest, I don't want to do anymore damage than I've already done in making the leak worse!
 
If I'm honest guys I don't know which bits you're talking about 🙂
I'm going to have to ring someone as I'm not massively confident replacing the leaky bit if i'm honest, I don't want to do anymore damage than I've already done in making the leak worse!

That's fair enough, if you do not feel confident then get an engineer out to solve this problem.

However, you will need to isolate the water first before changing the isolation valve. To test if you isolated the water you could flush the toilet and you will see if the toilet still fills with water or not.

Afterwards you could change either just the isolation valve or both fill valve and isolation valve with a fibre washer.
 
If I'm honest guys I don't know which bits you're talking about 🙂
I'm going to have to ring someone as I'm not massively confident replacing the leaky bit if i'm honest, I don't want to do anymore damage than I've already done in making the leak worse!
That`s fair enough, could easily go wrong. Don`t try and tell the person how to do the job mind as we tend to get a little huffy about that. 😉
 
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