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View the thread, titled "Vokera linear 24 Hot water issue" which is posted in Bathroom Advice on UK Plumbers Forums.

It must give a fault code if it's a volatile fault, first thing to check is venturi, fan and APS. Have a check at the flueing too.
You should get a pull from the fan of greater than 2mb (if you have a differential manometer measure the 2 venturi ports).
03 fault indicates fan/flue issues.
If it runs hot water fine at a low flow rate but cuts out when opened fully then check the plate HE.

Now I can paste this :lol:
 
Getting heating and not hot water then ignition and all components associated with it are fine!
Is it just the hot water that's an issue?
 
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Without knowing what's been fitted prior then I'd be going with a flow cup and thermometer! Check how poorly the boiler is performing ... Are you getting what mi's state? Also check that the diverter isn't passing! that can indicate dodgy valve and/or blocked phex! Also need to know that you have enough gas! Check operating burner pressure and that it's maintained ...
 
Yeah that's the first thing I'm gonna do. I'm sure the diverter has been changed. I should be getting an email with a list of what has been changed.I was thinking a blocked phex too,apparently they have thrown a grand so far at this boiler.
 
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Yeah that's the first thing I'm gonna do. I'm sure the diverter has been changed. I should be getting an email with a list of what has been changed.

If there's been several visits I'd imagine the hot water sensors been replaced too? If I'm following a lot of calls I try to step back and observe what's happening ... Check for the expected and note the difference. try and narrow the focus by elimination! Sounds obvious but when you come to something you haven't worked on before it can be a bit of a challenge 🙂
 
Temp rise at flow rate? If no ... enough gas? Diverter passing? What temp diff am I getting across the phex? Is the burner staying on full rate or modulating?

With hot water running the display shows the temp of the hot water ... when you turn the tap off it reverts to the primary circuit temp! If my memory serves me right? 🙂
 
I don't think they have changed the sensors, I think that's what they are planning on going back and doing but they are sending me first.I think they are losing confidence with the current company.Cheers for your help mate 🙂
 
I don't think they have changed the sensors, I think that's what they are planning on going back and doing but they are sending me first.I think they are losing confidence with the current company.Cheers for your help mate 🙂

Sensors controls the gas rate, usually the first thing I'd swap to be honest....... By the way, just come to me .......... The control knob spindle can snap on these. It may be turned up to max but isn't actually turning the potentiometer on the pcb! If it snapped on minimum then the control stat could be stuck there! 🙂
 
With hot water running the display shows the temp of the hot water ... when you turn the tap off it reverts to the primary circuit temp! If my memory serves me right? 🙂[/QUOTE]

Yes your memory does serve you correct. The tap is the black one under the boiler if the hw is modulating or cutting on and off. Switch this tap off immediately after the gas goes out, this then shows you the primary temp and if the plate hex is goosed
 
Temp rise at flow rate? If no ... enough gas? Diverter passing? What temp diff am I getting across the phex? Is the burner staying on full rate or modulating?

With hot water running the display shows the temp of the hot water ... when you turn the tap off it reverts to the primary circuit temp! If my memory serves me right? 🙂

You are spot on with the temperature bit buddy 🙂
 
Sensors controls the gas rate, usually the first thing I'd swap to be honest....... By the way, just come to me .......... The control knob spindle can snap on these. It may be turned up to max but isn't actually turning the potentiometer on the pcb! If it snapped on minimum then the control stat could be stuck there! 🙂

I had this on a saunier duvall... bloody thing 🙁
 
Can you go into yhis differential manometer technique a little more? Do you put 2 tubes on the venturi?

Yes, so when the fan runs it should push/pull 2mb of pressure, too low and it won't activate the APS.
Vokeras when working correctly should fire up after 8 seconds of being asked too, if it takes longer then there must be a reason for it 🙂
 
Hi Mutley racer .. the answer to your question is yes if there are two connections on the fan/venturi. Only potential issue is that you're changing the working dynamics of the boiler when you take the case front off! boilers with external aps give you a more accurate source to take actual working differential!

Air pressure switches are designed to switch above a certain differential pressure defined in manufacture. They vary which is why it's important to get the right APS for the boiler!
 

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