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water coming from f&e overflow

View the thread, titled "water coming from f&e overflow" which is posted in Bathroom Advice on UK Plumbers Forums.

J

jase158

I went to a job and there is water coming from overflow, firstly it came from water tank ball valve was faulty, replaced this and still overflowing, I then found it to be f&e tank, replaced this ball valve but still overflowing,

I went and made sure the water was at the correct level in f & e but still overflowing,

I suggested to customer to turn down pump, i have not heard anything else so far, hopefully this has fixed it,

Although if not i am a bit puzzled unless it is cylinder that is broken?

can anybody help on a way to test if the cylinder is broken please, the customer says that she is getting heating when the hot water is on only.

she has a vented system with a back boiler.

is there something else that could be causing it, boiler, i.e.
 
I think this could be a split coil, had it before and a new cylinder cured it. Is warm water going up the cold feed?
 
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Hi, diconnect the incoming feed to the f & e tank. Leave the heating and hot water off on the programmer, and if the tanks still overflows the it is probably a split coil in the cylinder.
 
Hi, diconnect the incoming feed to the f & e tank. Leave the heating and hot water off on the programmer, and if the tanks still overflows the it is probably a split coil in the cylinder.

the customer has switched hot water and heating off for a week, the tank is still overflowing, i am going on thursday to do above test
 
did above test and it still overflowed, drained down cylinder and the f and e went down, definetly a split in coil, cheers guys, anybody know if 28mm flow and return is standard or if not where to get a cylinder with 28mm flow and return?
 
If it was a split coil it would only overflow from the F&E if the domestic cystern was higher. If you suspect the coil, drain the heating and disconnect the fittings at the cylinder.
Btw. i have never in 35 odd years came across a split coil. It can happen but is definately not a common fault.
Another thing.
It is not legal to have the overflows twinned. Seperate overflows only.

Where am i going with cystern? CISTERN: halfwit😱
 
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If it was a split coil it would only overflow from the F&E if the domestic cystern was higher. If you suspect the coil, drain the heating and disconnect the fittings at the cylinder.
Btw. i have never in 35 odd years came across a split coil. It can happen but is definately not a common fault.
Another thing.
It is not legal to have the overflows twinned. Seperate overflows only.

Where am i going with cystern? CISTERN: halfwit😱

Very confused?

who and when was it said that overflow was twinned?

the f and e would overflow if the water was coming in from the cylinder coil, as the heating is always full, if you put more water in, where is the water going to go??????

domestic cistern?????? are you on about cylinder or cold water tank?
the cold water tank is above the f and e, although this wouldnt make a difference. and to find a hot water cylinder above the f and e, would be extremely strange as you need have to have it below for the vent?????

put it this way, if it is not the cylinder coil, i will eat my own feet, that is how certain i am to be honest.


In 35 years you have never come across this???? well you must do industrial, if you put copper in a bucket of water, does it not rust?????? these cylinders are not indestructable?
 
If you suspect the coil, drain the heating and disconnect the fittings at the cylinder.

Good idea, I did think of this, although fitting was scaled up and very rusty, so decided against this idea,
 
In 35 years you have never come across this???? well you must do industrial
I've done more domestic heating systems than you have had a ham shank and no i have never ever come across this but it can happen.

if you put copper in a bucket of water, does it not rust??????
NO. Not even if you left it in for a 100 years

jase you have an awful lot to learn. Hope your socks are clean😀😉
 
anybody know if 28mm flow and return is standard
28mm flow and return are normally a sign of a pumped heating/gravity hot water installation. The standard HW cylinder is only suitable for a fully pumped installation. Cylinders suitable for gravity circulation may be special order (i.e expensive) items, so converting to a fully pumped system may be more cost-effective.
 
IF the system is a gravity hot water system, then now is the ideal time to upgrade it. Not much to it, will need zone valve(s), cylinder thermostat, some pipe alteration and a rewire. The system will be more economical and controllable though and I'd sell it to the customer on that basis.
 
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I have never in 35 odd years came across a split coil. It can happen but is definately not a common fault.

What water conditions have you got where you are fella?

I ask as on the South Coast where I am we have very hard water, I see 3 or 4 split coils every year. A cheap immersion heater (ie not chromoloy) will last about 18 months here with everyday use if you're lucky. Where I was previously in South London it wasn't much better and once again split coils and pin holed cylinders weren't uncommon. It's got me wondering if it's just a water hardness issue?
 
Im down south aswell and diagnosed and replaced 3 split coils in the past 2 weeks. See a hell of a lot of pin holed and split coils round this way. Most definitely the hardness of the water. Yet no-one wants to put a water-softner in when its suggested.
 
Just as a point if anybody interested. The plumb center center cyl 900 x 450, although it states pumped only,it does work on gravity. They gauranteed it to the exent if it hadn't worked they where paying me to put a pump in!
 

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