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can i just raise one point. the engineer said he didn't want to change the valves as this would involve draining the system and potentially cause an airlock. i know we've discussed airlocks in this post already, and i'm not disputing this, as it could. however, is this something i need to be prepared for? or the likelihood is low.
 
You don't have to drain the rads (and probably better off not draining them IMO) but you will have to shut tightly the lock shield valves at either end or a lock shield + a TRV, if installed, the TRV doesn't have to be squeezed up, just turn it clockwise until it comes to its stop.
 
this is a very crude diagram of where the water pump is located in the house. the drain off is on the lower ground radiator. hope this helps
 

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hi all, thinking ahead to if i successfully change over the old valves to the new ones. is there a way i can slowly release the water when checking for leaks? for example when i did some work on my shower. i would turn off at the main. when testing, i only add one turn to allow some water to come through. if it leaks, it will be at low pressure and enough for me to just switch off. at mine i don't have a tank in the loft. in this case i do.

thanks
 
If the pump is on the ground floor open any radiator vent that is just above it, start filling the system, stop filling as soon as water comes from the vent and inspect the pump/valves for leaks. If the pump is located higher up then you have to fill to a higher level.
 

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