Wc bottom entry inket valve advice please

[Gat]

I am no plumbing expert so would appreciate some advice. I am replacing the bottom entry inket valve assembly on my toilet cistern. The thread protruding out of the bottom of the cistern is marginally too long to fit to the existing pipework. I don't really want to cut it shorter or change the pipework if i can help it. I was wondering about adding a plastic washer in the cistern between where the rubber washer joins the base of the plastic inlet assembly to raise the assembly slightly. See below. Would this be watertight?

| float valve pipe
- plastic base of float valve
- extra plastic washer (or perhaps a rubber one?)
- rubber cone washer
------ cistern base
| inlet pipe

Thanks. Gary

 

[ShaunCorbs]

no dont add another washer, will the pipework move at all ?

 

[kay-jay]

A plastic washer will be fine as a spacer fitted directly onto the tail of the valve before the rubber sealing washer

 

[gassafe]

Would have to be careful the water dosent find its way down the threads if your doing that sort of alteration... You may find that you have enough flex once the old valve is out

 

[Gat]

Thanks. I was thinking of adding sealant between the plastic washer and plastic base of inlet assembly to stop possible ingress of water. Perhaps i should just use a big dollop of sealant as the spacer instead?

 

[lame plumber]

just remove the excess thread your other ideas will just leak

 

[Gat]

I've read elsewhere that removing the excess thread is not a good idea as it is unlikely that i would get a true square clean cut so it won't mate true to the pipework, in my case, an isolator valve.

 

[rpm]

I've read elsewhere that removing the excess thread is not a good idea as it is unlikely that i would get a true square clean cut so it won't mate true to the pipework, in my case, an isolator valve.

Fair point if you doubt you can hacksaw square.

 

[rpm]

In your 1st post you say the difference is marginal so can I suggest you do a dry run without any silicone and see if you can get the isolation valve and the pipe to fit.

 

[stevetheplumber]

i would cut it back and put a brass tap extender on it youll have to work out where to cut allowing for the length of the extender

 

[turnpin]

Put an extra /thicker rubber washer to take up the space for your alteration.....regards Turnpin:yes: