Where to obtain Marley plumbing fittings

[S1966W]

I've recently cleared a fatberg from the drain pipe underfloor and am now in the process of fitting everything back together.

The cropped out pipework is easy enough; a couple of Flexseal PF56 couplings which are just the right size for the 56mm OD pipe. The boiler condensate drain I will re-affix with either silicon sealant, or EVO stik pipe weld adhesive.

The only real headache is the S bend and associated pipework under the sink. I cannot get it watertight probably due to a mismatch of different pipe specification. The pipe which comes out of the floor has markings; 'Fusion 42 high temp'. Onto this is a push fit bend marked Marley 42mm - 1 1/2".

Would anyone have any useful advice on how I could convert this to fit a modern standard S bend.

Image below. The flexi grey sink overflow pipe is siliconed in to the pipe run as it seems to have been cut too short and I have no chance of replacing this small section of pipe as it is squeezed in between the 2 sink bowls. Nearly every joint has a drip of some description!



Cheers for any advice, Simon

 

[Nwalky]

Hi there,

Pipework under the kitchen sink when relating to the trap can be a nightmare to adapt onto, simply because there are so many differant manufacturers. I would say that unless it is a Mcalpine trap under the sink then forget trying to adapt onto it. Personally i would take away the whole trap (the pipework connected to the double bowl sink and the "s") and fit a new mcalpine double bowl trap kit. Adapting onto the tail of pipework coming through the unit should be easy enough, you can either put on an 1" 1/2 mcalpine straight or you might get away with a glued straight, if its marley pipe then you might struggle with a glued straight unless it is specifically marley. I believe plumb centre deal with Marley if you are stuck.

You said
"The boiler condensate drain I will re-affix with either silicon sealant, or EVO stik pipe weld adhesive"

If i were you i would cut into, what sounds like 2" pipework, and add a tee with a glued condensate reducer as sticking it with silicone or evo stick is a botch job to be honest and you wont guarantee a dependable seal.

Any questions, let me know

 

[WC1]

As above, id replace all with macalpine.
You shouldn't rally be messing with the condense, its technically part of the flue and gas safe blah blah. Make sure that joint is well made, flue gasses can escape in fault conditions.
The overflow is easily replaced, even with the limited space between the bowls. You'll see.
I'd replace the baskets while at it, the new ones will look nicer.

 

[S1966W]

Thanks for the replies above, I'll see what I can obtain from the local plumbers merchants with regard to new traps and pipeworks. The 42mm pipe size didn't throw up much on popular auction sites. I totally agree about the botch condensate drain, but it was 'glued' in by the original boiler installers and because of it's location I don't have many other practical options......well I do but it is finding the time and it's in a real pratt of a location.

 

[WC1]

Thanks for the replies above, I'll see what I can obtain from the local plumbers merchants with regard to new traps and pipeworks. The 42mm pipe size didn't throw up much on popular auction sites. I totally agree about the botch condensate drain, but it was 'glued' in by the original boiler installers and because of it's location I don't have many other practical options......well I do but it is finding the time and it's in a real pratt of a location.

43mm od is "40mm" solvent weld pipe

 

[S1966W]

43mm od is "40mm" solvent weld pipe

Aaaahh, thanks for that info. That may make the search a little less painful, cheers.

 

[Nwalky]

"it's in a real pratt of a location"

Haha, welcome to plumbing

 

[WC1]

You can use compression fittings on it, you don't need to "solvent weld" it.

 

[Nwalky]

If you are adapting to old waste pipe, you will need to use a mcalpine fitting as you will not get a modern day glued fitting on it

 

[S1966W]

The overflow is easily replaced, even with the limited space between the bowls. You'll see.

I'm a bit loathe to pull the existing one out as there's no way I can get my hand, or any other part of my anatomy into that small space!! I would love to 'see' how to replace this pipe as the bloke who fitted it cut it too short and hence it's been made watertight with a large wodge of sealant........which has just perished.

 

[WC1]

You dont usually need to get your hand up between the bowls. Picture of overflow outlet at sink?

 

[S1966W]

"it's in a real pratt of a location"

Haha, welcome to plumbing

I worked at sea for 35 years, the last 10 years on Chinese built Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG) tankers. I thought they were hard to beat when it came to "where is the worst possible place I could fit this valve/p[pe/scupper to hinder future maintenance". Looking closely at the plumbing in my house I think I've found a possible competitor.

 

[S1966W]

Here's a rather poor image:

I would guess that it simply pulls off, and the new one simply pushes on. However, if I'm wrong and this is another impossible to find Kyrgyzstan pipe standard then I'll have to faff about botching up something else to fit. My wife is quite patient but after 4 days without heating or hot water (boiler packed up when the drain initially blocked and the condensate had nowhere to go) and another 2 weeks without kitchen sink - due to the time it has taken me to cut a hole in the floor, source various items to source blockage, cut pipe, refit pipe etc.................then it is probably easier to repack it with another wodge of silicon (the previous bodge has lasted nearly 10 years!!

Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated, Simon

 

[king of pipes]

The guys have given sound advice above I'd recommend you upgrade the whole waste system it's not that difficult various kits are readily available online if your local supplier does not stock them . regards kop

 

[WC1]

View attachment 74371

I would guess that it simply pulls off, and the new one simply pushes on. However, if I'm wrong and this is another impossible to find Kyrgyzstan pipe standard then I'll have to faff about botching up something else to fit. My wife is quite patient but after 4 days without heating or hot water (boiler packed up when the drain initially blocked and the condensate had nowhere to go) and another 2 weeks without kitchen sink - due to the time it has taken me to cut a hole in the floor, source various items to source blockage, cut pipe, refit pipe etc.................then it is probably easier to repack it with another wodge of silicon (the previous bodge has lasted nearly 10 years!!

Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated, Si

Yes, pipe is pull off push on, usually standard not Kyrgyz, or you can change the "head" bit of the overflow as well - usually screws on with s/s machine screw from front or the front plastic cage screws on to the back plastic receiver.
The head part is round or rectangular, looks like you have the round type.
Good luck