which boiler to go for?

[beesley121]

Hi guys,

reason Im asking this is that I will be doing this job for a friend and dont want the boiler to go up the swanny.

My mate has just recently moved into his new house. He had a problem with his rads a few weeks back, found them all sludges up. cause was the use of non-barrier pipe throughout his house. He has a coventional system installed at the minute but wants a combi.

Know its a massive job to replace all the pipe in his house at a high cost so he just wants a combi fitting and the old pipes left. Ive told him that i will powerflush system, fit a magnacleanse and he is also on about replacing his rads but as he has these non barrier pipes, his system will still slowly sludge back up even with regular maintenance

Im looking for a boiler that will cope with the amount of debris possible for this installation. I know some heat exchanges are able to cope better with dirty'er systems. He will require a 30kw boiler so can anyone advise what boiler options i have?

many thanks in advance

 

[ecowarm]

What a waste of a new boiler! System should be renewed in my opinion.

Failing that a Intergas combi as there is no plate heat exchanger, but I'm sure the warranty would be useless

 

[Mike Jackson]

I'd go for the cheapest nastiest boiler you can get because whatever you fit will be fubarred well before the warranty runs out.

 

[Barry98]

fubarred - pmsl there all coming out this week .

vallaint

 

[Nostrum]

How about fitting the existing system onto a heat exchanger and heating it via a boiler on a seperate circuit indirectly?

You would save the new boiler, and the warranty and when cash flow allows, repipe and fit direct to the boiler

You could even leave it open vented if you were worried about pressurising.

 

[AWheating]

fit him whatever he wants, then charge him £300 a year annual power flush 😉

 

[Roger Welton]

Agree with intergas as the most tolerant of crud in system, due to no plate and also nice copper waterways in main hex for easier (inevitable) flushing at a later date.

Is it that big a system, surely it would pay to sort the job properly, no comeback then. All pipe runs are all sorted already so only a case of expose and replace.

 

[ggman]

Just take look at this link and browse the pages you will see the best boiler that you can find all in copper and stainless steel, will work with any old system [DLMURL]http://www.mcncaldaie.com/BluGas.pdf[/DLMURL]

 

[ecowarm]

ggman, you posted that link again, your gonna get banned!! is that 5 times now?

 

[Nostrum]

I wouldn't have the balls to fit that on someone's wall with a flue like that anyway

 

[ggman]

ggman, you posted that link again, your gonna get banned!! is that 5 times now?

Sorry, what am I doing wrong? As these boioler are not imported in uk, my one is just a technical enquire just to know some opinions. Sorry if I done something wrong didn't mean it.
Regards

 

[beesley121]

Agree with intergas as the most tolerant of crud in system, due to no plate and also nice copper waterways in main hex for easier (inevitable) flushing at a later date.

Is it that big a system, surely it would pay to sort the job properly, no comeback then. All pipe runs are all sorted already so only a case of expose and replace.

thanx everyone for the replies

as he a good mate of mine for many years, i dont want to install a boiler only for it to go **** up because of the pipe he has. I also am trying to save him money but at the end of the day, he needs the non barrier pipe taking out.

its going to be alot of work and i cant work for free. He wants all new pipe put behind th plasterboard, not in conduit and as he lives in a newish house, he has them stupid chipboard floor panels. I hate them as you cant just cut into them and lay it straight back down. More work restrengthing floor.

if it was for a full paying customer, I still wouldnt like the floors but shes paying full whack so that at least makes it a little better

 

[tamz]

Believe it or not, chipboard floors are actually easier and quicker to work on than floorboards. You just need the knowledge :wink:+ if the walls are stud partitions it is easy to drop the pipes inside.

I agree with all the others and you also know a re-pipe is the only way. Penny wise pound foolish. He needs to bite the bullet.

 

[beesley121]

tamz, would you care to share you experiance re chipboard floors. Would love some info on how you go about it. please feel free to pm if you would rather do that. your help would be much appreciated

 

[tamz]

You need the tools but it can be done by hand if you are stuck. Quickest way is rip snorter and nail gun. Forget using all those toy tools that are banded about.
Rip the board down the middle and if the ends are tongue and grooved along them too (but not if they are joined off the joist). Leave one long edge with the tongue (or groove) still on.
Punch any nails through the board and lift. You should have board sections 300mm x 2400 (or shorter depending on how they are laid) You should be able to lift your roads for a full room in less than 5 minutes including checks cut. Sweep sawdust into a pile and keep it.

When re-laying you need some 2 x 1 1/2" minimum or 3 X 2 cls is easier. Cut dwangs (noggins) and toenail into position along long cut edge with paslode gun. Run some pva glue down the tongue and groove, the cuts and punch holes then sweep the previously saved sawdust into the draft and rub into the glue, adding more pva as necessary. Job done.

If you just need an access hole cut a square hole with your snorter preferably (but not necessarily) with one edge on a joist. To re lay screw some timber across the corners or straight across the hole depending on your cut, to support and fill the joints as before.

Any decent installer will lift boards faster, cleaner and more efficient than any joiner i have ever met (and i know some excellent joiners). They do it as a task where we do it every day for a living. Plumbing is not all about pipes :wink: