Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

Apr 30, 2011
22
1
3
Thought I had a problem with an Ariston 30L water heater in a village hall whereby the hot water flow has steadily reduced to almost nothing over a period of a year. When you open the hot water tap you get a burst of water then it slows and stops after only a small amount has come out. Suspected blocked filter or outlet but all OK. Next suspect is what looks like a Zip pressure reducing valve (nominal 3Bar) with filter. Checked filter, clear and OK. Have not done a static pressure test yet on incoming cold but it may be less than 3 bar in the day. Does a 3 bar pressure reducing valve need more than 3 bar to flow or should it pass water and gradually shut off as the pressure increases to 3 bar. I can only get this one to flow by increasing the pressure setting well above the nominal 3 bar factory set point and that seems counter-intuitive.
 
If you put 2 bar through a P.Reg.V. set to 3 bar you'll get almost 2 bar through it. (minor internal losses)
 
Blimey Shaun, I never knew that and I only renewed my ticket 10 mths ago. When did that happen?
 
Thought I had a problem with an Ariston 30L water heater in a village hall whereby the hot water flow has steadily reduced to almost nothing over a period of a year. When you open the hot water tap you get a burst of water then it slows and stops after only a small amount has come out. Suspected blocked filter or outlet but all OK. Next suspect is what looks like a Zip pressure reducing valve (nominal 3Bar) with filter. Checked filter, clear and OK. Have not done a static pressure test yet on incoming cold but it may be less than 3 bar in the day. Does a 3 bar pressure reducing valve need more than 3 bar to flow or should it pass water and gradually shut off as the pressure increases to 3 bar. I can only get this one to flow by increasing the pressure setting well above the nominal 3 bar factory set point and that seems counter-intuitive.
The pressure reducing valve is meant to maintain downstream pressure of 3 bar, irrespective of higher upstream pressure, within limits of design pressure, and maximum flow determined by size of valve. If the upstream pressure is below 3 bar it goes wide open, and flow falls off as the upstream pressure falls. Your symptoms look a bit peculiar.
 

Official Sponsors of Plumbers Talk

Similar plumbing topics

We recommend City Plumbing Supplies, BES, and Plumbing Superstore for all plumbing supplies.