Anyone supply an idiots guide to DIY powerflushing

[horseunderwater]

Having been refused BG cover on CH system due to excessive iron oxide sludge, we were told £680 to get a powerflush by BG which we got told was a lifetime guaranteed one.
Hubby who is not a plumber, but has done various re plumbing on our system over the years and according to the gas engineer that we had out, had done an excellent job, has found that you can hire one of these flushers and operate this yourself.
So our big question is - does anyone on here have an idiots guide to operating one of these things if we go and hire one for a weekend? Or would it be better to try a chemical flush first? Money is very tight at the moment, so we need cheapest reliable method. Ideally I wish I could afford to have a magnaclean thing fitted.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Puddle]

Well first of all,do you need a power flush,believe BG and everything requires power flushing,there is a thread on here
What is the problem with the heating
Is it a sealed system or open vented

 

[Bernie2]

Hi! horseunderwater

The hire people usually supply full instructions. But Google powerflush equipment and then look to see if you can download an instruction manual for it.

Try Kamco website, they make power flushers. Lots of info on there.

 

[dublin plumber]

the cheapest way is not hire one at all !
but put the mains onto the heating system and flush it through .

 

[horseunderwater]

the cheapest way is not hire one at all !
but put the mains onto the heating system and flush it through .

Can I ask what you mean by this? Are you stating that we should somehow connect the cold water mains onto the heating pipes?
I just had to buy another pump today as OH managed to fuse the other new one, when he was trying to add one of those auto vent valves onto the CH vent near hot water cylinder.
Have also bought some Altech acid flush cleaner to try and get rid of some of the gunge. Instructions state to add and circulate for about an hour. Would you also suggest tapping the pipes to loosen magnetic residue? OH asks me to ask on here where best to add it into system?

Well first of all,do you need a power flush,believe BG and everything requires power flushing,there is a thread on here
What is the problem with the heating
Is it a sealed system or open vented

Not sealed. Will be trying some acid cleaner see other reply. Main problem is that there is loads of gunk in CH pipework and this is stopping circulation and thus heat.

 

[REDSAW]

drain of and refill a couple of times then tell the nobs at bg it has been done as it all now runs clear.
simples.

 

[dublin plumber]

to clean it take the rads off flush them through with the garden tap and hose , connect the mains onto the system run for 30 mins job done ! its stronger than a power flush

 

[Puddle]

As dublin plumber says,power flushing saves time as ,time expensive but if you are doing it your self that is not a problem
A few add ons,when removing rads and taking outside make sure ends covered and if any black oxide water drips,clean up straight away,do not let dry
Once you have finished add a mild system cleaner and leave for 4 weeks then flush though again,stay away from strong chemicals on a old system
Also make sure there is a good flow through drain cock to allow flushing through,some times best to add a proper valve to increase flow this can be removed after wards or capped
To flush mains through you can by pass tank and connect ball valve mains to cold feed,always make sure drain is open when you open mains,make sure system drain is on a far rad,you do not want to be filling with mains and going straight out drain directly below,when flushing through close all rads except one,when water runs clear,open another rad and close the last,always open ran before closing last,this does not matter so mush on an open system like your,more for sealed systems,what you can do that helps ,is when you are flushing mains through,place thumb over end of hose pipe to stop flow through ,then when force on thumb getting strained,release, this allows a bit of pressure build up to help flushing through
Once vfinished and all is hopefully warm,do keep checking pipework,gittings and rads for any leaks that may have developed
Take your time,make sure rads and pipework flushed out well,after 4 week flush,remenber to add an inhibitor

 

[Dirty Fingers]

Like most jobs, 80% of powerflushes are pretty straightforward and canbe carried-out by a very competent DIY'er. However, the other 20% need some experience and knowledge of how systems work in theory and of how they are installed in practice.

A mains flush (sometimes called a hard flush) can remove most of the magnetite (very fine rust) from the bottom f the rads, but on it's own - particularly if the rads are left in situ - is unlikely to touch the stuff stuck to the rad walls.

Be very careful if your mains water pressure is any higher than, say 1.5 bar. Most systems should be fine, but you never know. (Most powerflushing pumps for domestic use operate below 1.0 bar)

One thing, if you have microbore pipework forget everything I have just said and get a profressional in. Naturally don;t use BG - their prices are way over the top.

If you have an older high water content boiler I doubt that you will need a magnaclean. Just get the system cleaned out thoroughly and keep it topped up with inhibitor (Kamco systemsafe is the best). Keep adding it every year.

Hope this helps, but if you need more info try Pritchard Plumbing & Heating Welcome

Best wishes.

 

[GasPlumberEssex]

The is a very straight forward procedure on the power flush association's site. Is it for a sealed or open vented system?