How do I remove plastic compression coupling to access external waste pipe?

[WC1]

It's possible the original installer didn't deburr the joints and 99% sure whoever cut it to put in the compression left ragged ends.
I'd have a go at getting the compression fitting off and cleaning up the ends. Not a job for the faint hearted but it sounds like you're game, have you twisted the compression nuts off and slid them right out of the way along the pipe to see whats happening and to make room to wiggle the ends of the pipe free? I.e. disassemble in situ.

 

[TomW36]

It's possible the original installer didn't deburr the joints and 99% sure whoever cut it to put in the compression left ragged ends.
I'd have a go at getting the compression fitting off and cleaning up the ends. Not a job for the faint hearted but it sounds like you're game, have you twisted the compression nuts off and slid them right out of the way along the pipe to see whats happening and to make room to wiggle the ends of the pipe free? I.e. disassemble in situ.

Thanks WC!1, Both compression nuts were easy to move but I couldn’t free the pipe from the fitting.

As this 22cm run keeps blocking I’ve decided to leave trying to unblock again and going to get a new pipe run laid which should hopefully resolve the issue.

 

[centralheatking]

As a last chance, I am looking at the strap on boss where it joins the soil ....I can see most connections are glued ones..except the compression connector. Is it a rubber bung into the strap on boss...you might be able to work it free there...or has it been glued as well
centralheatking

 

[rpm]

Thanks WC!1, Both compression nuts were easy to move but I couldn’t free the pipe from the fitting.

As this 22cm run keeps blocking I’ve decided to leave trying to unblock again and going to get a new pipe run laid which should hopefully resolve the issue.

This may be for the best, in the meantime consult with manufactures webpage to make sure the new pipe can be installed within their guidelines or you might be wasting money. Thing that puzzles me is the system worked until the new pump was installed if I remember corectly. Dont get me wrong but are you certain that a cheap pump wasn`t installed? Check pump casing for manufactures name and model stickers if you can.
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As a last chance, I am looking at the strap on boss where it joins the soil ..I can see most connections are glued ones..except the compression connector. Is it a rubber bung into the strap on boss...you might be able to work it free there...or has it been glued as well
centralheatking

Can`t see signs of a rubber bung connector Rob, it all looks like solvent weld there. I`m wondering if somebody was clever and turned the compression connector into a slip connector or perhaps the OP needs to be firmer with it.

 

[TomW36]

This may be for the best, in the meantime consult with manufactures webpage to make sure the new pipe can be installed within their guidelines or you might be wasting money. Thing that puzzles me is the system worked until the new pump was installed if I remember corectly. Dont get me wrong but are you certain that a cheap pump wasn`t installed? Check pump casing for manufactures name and model stickers if you can.
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Can`t see signs of a rubber bung connector Rob, it all looks like solvent weld there. I`m wondering if somebody was clever and turned the compression connector into a slip connector or perhaps the OP needs to be firmer with it.

we replaced a very old saniflo. The new one is a Saniflo Saniplus Up. Can pump vertically up to 5 metres so hopefully will work. We did have the toilet moved to the other end of the en suite but otherwise pipe work is the same. Even had a saniflo approved engineer out to check and he said no issues.

we had one blockage with the old

This may be for the best, in the meantime consult with manufactures webpage to make sure the new pipe can be installed within their guidelines or you might be wasting money. Thing that puzzles me is the system worked until the new pump was installed if I remember corectly. Dont get me wrong but are you certain that a cheap pump wasn`t installed? Check pump casing for manufactures name and model stickers if you can.
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we had a saniflo Saniplus up put in. Replaced an old saniflo that we thought might give up the ghost. This new one should have power to deal with toilet plus shower and basin. Can pump 5m vertically so hopefully new pipe run will work. guys doing it know so will let you know if it works out.

its a bit of a mystery. We had a block 18 months ago with the old saniflo but then has been fine since. Then with new saniflo we have had systematic blockages. Was cleared for 2 weeks using a gas method that I’m not familiar with but otherwise three professional wet vac cleans lasted 2 days or so.

Can`t see signs of a rubber bung connector Rob, it all looks like solvent weld there. I`m wondering if somebody was clever and turned the compression connector into a slip connector or perhaps the OP needs to be firmer with it.

 

[rpm]

Thanks for that, it was something else to check, good luck with it.

 

[TomW36]

Thanks for that, it was something else to check, good luck with it.

Wanted to say huge thanks for your advice. We have had a new run of 32mm pipe laid that goes up into our attic and then links to main soil pipe. Saniflo seems to be pumping very effectively, so problem was def 22mm pipe.

Attached a few pics to show pipework in case you're interested from a professional standpoint.
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Wanted to say huge thanks for your advice. We have had a new run of 32mm pipe laid that goes up into our attic and then links to main soil pipe. Saniflo seems to be pumping very effectively, so problem was def 22mm pipe.

Attached a few pics to show pipework in case you're interested from a professional standpoint.

 

[centralheatking]

Looks like a proper job, maybe a rodding point might have been a good idea
centralheatking

 

[rpm]

Looks like a proper job, maybe a rodding point might have been a good idea
centralheatking

Rodding points WILL be needed in around a year and a half maybe two years time subject to useage unless it s the camera lens distorting angles.

Also guess he had the attitude that reading the instructions was for dummies.
2nd photo, top left corner, is that white bit a pipe at an angle or an open window and that notch looks deep.

 

[MOSSEP]

Unless your loft floor is out of level it doesn't look like the pipe has a fall on it? I don't think you are supposed to use tight 90 degree bends either, 2 45's are usually specified in the manual.

 

[TomW36]

Unless your loft floor is out of level it doesn't look like the pipe has a fall on it? I don't think you are supposed to use tight 90 degree bends either, 2 45's are usually specified in the manual.

Luckily there is a slight angle to our house in the direction of the soil pipe. I did ask about the need for more fall, but installer said pump in our saniflo is so powerful so not an issue. After flushing I can hear water washing around in the loft pipes for around 30 secs before it goes through to external run and into main soil pipe, so working fine now, though I wonder over time how things will pan if water pressure isn’t that high as the run is so long and horizontal.

on ridding points, where is the best place to install and is it a straightforward job?

 

[centralheatking]

Luckily there is a slight angle to our house in the direction of the soil pipe. I did ask about the need for more fall, but installer said pump in our saniflo is so powerful so not an issue. After flushing I can hear water washing around in the loft pipes for around 30 secs before it goes through to external run and into main soil pipe, so working fine now, though I wonder over time how things will pan if water pressure isn’t that high as the run is so long and horizontal.

on ridding points, where is the best place to install and is it a straightforward job?

Rodding points can go on every bend, install a 't' with the blind part a threaded removable stop end. centralheatking

 

[moonlight]

Too many fittings there.

 

[rpm]

Rodding points can go on every bend, install a 't' with the blind part a threaded removable stop end. centralheatking

Putting rodding T on every bend is an overkill.

Luckily there is a slight angle to our house in the direction of the soil pipe. I did ask about the need for more fall, but installer said pump in our saniflo is so powerful so not an issue. After flushing I can hear water washing around in the loft pipes for around 30 secs before it goes through to external run and into main soil pipe, so working fine now.

Anything over a few seconds is wrong.

Too many fittings there.

How would you do it?