HRM Wallstar Oil Boiler - Advice please

[Best]

Boiler started up 1st attempt this morning...

I did try this awhile ago. I think when I removed photocell burner continued running but when I covered photocell it shutdown if my memory serves me correctly.

Combustion is most likely then poor if flame isn’t partly being obscured from photocell view.
But can have one of many causes.
Nozzle could be faulty, or air setting wrong or burner drawing in flue gases, or oil pump pressure is set wrong, are some possibilities.

 

[SimonG]

Nozzle being damp is fine. Dont like the position of the electrodes though.

 

[Simonvr46]

Nozzle being damp is fine. Dont like the position of the electrodes though.

Just a quick question, the capscrew that is in the main body of the burner just below the black plastic cover for the photo cell etc is that what is undone when boiler serviced? If so should the gasket be replaced?
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could the electrode be causing the issue of lockout? If it’s not positioned correctly could the photocell fail to detect it sometimes?

is the blast tube ok or should that be cleaner?

 

[SJB060685]

The Alan key under the black cover is used to undo and remove the burner, you've detached the whole thing. The electrodes don't look right in terms of position and could be part of the reason it doesn't light sometimes, it doesn't explain why it sometimes ignites and then loses flame during 5 second safety time though.

 

[Simonvr46]

The Alan key under the black cover is used to undo and remove the burner, you've detached the whole thing. The electrodes don't look right in terms of position and could be part of the reason it doesn't light sometimes, it doesn't explain why it sometimes ignites and then loses flame during 5 second safety time though.

That capscrew is seriously tight, should the gasket be replaced when burner is split?

wish id paid more attention to what he was doing when he serviced it.
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I’ve contacted a 3 local heating engineers, 1 said he would go with pump bring issue. 1 said possibly pump but wouldn’t be sure and the other said it’s the control box.

 

[SJB060685]

That capscrew is seriously tight, should the gasket be replaced when burner is split?

wish id paid more attention to what he was doing when he serviced it.
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I’ve contacted a 3 local heating engineers, 1 said he would go with pump bring issue. 1 said possibly pump but wouldn’t be sure and the other said it’s the control box.

When you split the burner any gaskets need to be replaced if not In good reusable condition. I've not experienced on this burner but have on a Riello where the seal had perished causing it to draw more air which was extinguishing the flame like you're experiencing at times.
I did not say for sure it was the pump, only suspicious and I based that on what I've seen heard and read, like I said I cant be sure without checking a couple things. Control box can cause this issue yes and the DKO does things slightly different in lockout mode but again it's hard to say without being there.

 

[Simonvr46]

As far as I’m aware the only parts that have been replaced during service are the filter and the nozzle, no mention of replacing gasket.

should that capscrew be stupidly tight to undo?

with regards to blast tube does that look in good condition?

 

[SJB060685]

Image from manual to show the long bolt you should be removing. Blast tube looked ok, usual wear and tear but overall in acceptable condition. Couldn’t see if there were any obstructions to the cell though

 

[Simonvr46]

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Image from manual to show the long bolt you should be removing. Blast tube looked ok, usual wear and tear but overall in acceptable condition. Couldn’t see if there were any obstructions to the cell though

Found that image in the HRM handbook. Just didn’t know about how tight that screw should be? Used to screws and bolts having torque setting on them lol.

 

[SJB060685]

These things do quite often have torque settings yes. Alan key below on burner casing looks like the one going by image. Been a while for me on this burner lol