Toilet Waste Not Aligning With Wall Hung Unit

[Ben-gee]

Should have used a geberit frame, the 90 degree pipe has about 6 different depth positions!!!! Not very helpful now, I know.

There will be enough play in the 4” to gain 20mm across a room don’t worry.

What you need to do is;

1) unscrew the soil pipe clips

2) position the frame where you need it and fix it firmly.

3) reattach your pipe clips to the wall using shims/ bits of ply etc of the appropriate thickness.

 

[danielson]

Should have used a geberit frame, the 90 degree pipe has about 6 different depth positions!!!! Not very helpful now, I know.

There will be enough play in the 4” to gain 20mm across a room don’t worry.

What you need to do is;

1) unscrew the soil pipe clips

2) position the frame where you need it and fix it firmly.

3) reattach your pipe clips to the wall using shims/ bits of ply etc of the appropriate thickness.

I measured everything before purchasing but never thought to even consider the waste pipe measurements! The installation videos are funny - the soil pipe is vertically below the frame in the precise location it needs to be...

I purchased the 'distance pipe' that grohe do to see if that would space it out but its taking it too far out. Either way you have just saved me a massive ball ache so thanks for that. I have managed to move the pipe around 15mm so that it aligns with my old studwork.

Just in the process of making some spacers for the waste pipe brackets now with some ply. Next time I will be using the Gerbeit one.

I am tempted to put the bracket on top of my studwork sole plate to spread the load instead of using bits of ply on the floor. Is there any issue with doing that? I will then drop the frame height to account for the stud height..

 

[Ben-gee]

No that’s fine I usually do that
a) get the best fixing - into wood, b) gives you something to screw your 12mm hardiebacker to ( that’s the best thing to clad in if you’re tiling by the way)

 

[danielson]

No that’s fine I usually do that
a) get the best fixing - into wood, b) gives you something to screw your 12mm hardiebacker to ( that’s the best thing to clad in if you’re tiling by the way)

Yes I have some C16 studwork to use and will run it all the way across (as opposed to gaps for where the toilet and the basin is) and do the same with the basin frame. Good point with the extra area to allow you to screw the hardiebacker to - I suppose the more support for the boards the better.

I was thinking of using the abacus elements board kit 12mm but it seems fairly pricey to other non branded hardie backer board.

I have the abacus wall mounted basin frame to fit next hopefully more straight forward than the toilet has been.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Have a look at marmox boards

 

[danielson]

Have a look at marmox boards

roger that thanks

 

[Ben-gee]

Those type of boards don’t give enough support for the wall hung pan - ok if you have massive tiles or use thick boards.
12mm hardie is excellent structurally.

 

[danielson]

Those type of boards don’t give enough support for the wall hung pan - ok if you have massive tiles or use thick boards.
12mm hardie is excellent structurally.

The Marmox or abacus ?

 

[Ben-gee]

Any of the cement faced extruded polystyrene type will not be sufficient at 12mm thickness (unless supported at , I think, 300mm centres) .