Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

Stick a couple of fingers over the air intake on the burner to see if it fires. Don't block it just reduce the amount of air its pulling in.
Tried that but made no difference, pressed reset button again and let it start as normal and it started. I’m totally confused.......
[automerge]1580668314[/automerge]
Solenoid click but no ignition?
Yeah think so, can see pump drawing oil, transformer is sending spark to electrode and then goes lockout.
 
From what I've seen, heard and read I'm still leaning towards a pump issue. I'm not saying it is but it's what I'd run a couple tests on first. To prove or disprove ignition and atomization things have to be done but I'm not going to say what. It could be air related as well but I'm not convinced.
I cant say anymore, from here on in it needs a decent engineer with good experience and the right gear.
 
From what I've seen, heard and read I'm still leaning towards a pump issue. I'm not saying it is but it's what I'd run a couple tests on first. To prove or disprove ignition and atomization things have to be done but I'm not going to say what. It could be air related as well but I'm not convinced.
I cant say anymore, from here on in it needs a decent engineer with good experience and the right gear.
Ok no probs, thank you for your help.
Going to give someone local a ring tomorrow for advice before getting them to come visit.
[automerge]1580669298[/automerge]
Have you taken the burner out before?

If you have, take it out and take a picture looking down the blast tube. Make sure you unplug coil or turn it all off.
No never taken burner out before. Although I work as a mechanical fitter im not confident with taking burner apart.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SJB060685
No problem, respect somebody who knows there limits.

Was the nozzle changed at the last service?

Whereabouts in the country are you?
Will give most things ago but know when I’m at my limits lol.
Yeah nozzle and filters was changed last service.
Im in Lincolnshire.
 
Fool the photocell into seeing light once burner fires and see if burner continues to fire while photocell out. Handy on Sterling burners.
That will prove flame is poor for some reason or photocell had obstructed view.
Does sound like flame burn is barely making it
 
Fool the photocell into seeing light once burner fires and see if burner continues to fire while photocell out. Handy on Sterling burners.
That will prove flame is poor for some reason or photocell had obstructed view.
Does sound like flame burn is barely making it
Boiler started up 1st attempt this morning.......

I did try this awhile ago. I think when I removed photocell burner continued running but when I covered photocell it shutdown if my memory serves me correctly.
[automerge]1580746973[/automerge]
Took burner unit off and had a look. I’ve attached photos. Tip of nozzle is damp with oil.
Any suggestions?
 

Attachments

  • 8365299F-E148-4661-B898-EDBFE74587C6.jpeg
    8365299F-E148-4661-B898-EDBFE74587C6.jpeg
    85.7 KB · Views: 49
  • 26955CB1-FDE4-4290-8B4B-A3ACEBE49685.jpeg
    26955CB1-FDE4-4290-8B4B-A3ACEBE49685.jpeg
    121.1 KB · Views: 51
Last edited:
Boiler started up 1st attempt this morning...

I did try this awhile ago. I think when I removed photocell burner continued running but when I covered photocell it shutdown if my memory serves me correctly.

Combustion is most likely then poor if flame isn’t partly being obscured from photocell view.
But can have one of many causes.
Nozzle could be faulty, or air setting wrong or burner drawing in flue gases, or oil pump pressure is set wrong, are some possibilities.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Simonvr46
Nozzle being damp is fine. Dont like the position of the electrodes though.
Just a quick question, the capscrew that is in the main body of the burner just below the black plastic cover for the photo cell etc is that what is undone when boiler serviced? If so should the gasket be replaced?
[automerge]1580748488[/automerge]
could the electrode be causing the issue of lockout? If it’s not positioned correctly could the photocell fail to detect it sometimes?

is the blast tube ok or should that be cleaner?
 
The Alan key under the black cover is used to undo and remove the burner, you've detached the whole thing. The electrodes don't look right in terms of position and could be part of the reason it doesn't light sometimes, it doesn't explain why it sometimes ignites and then loses flame during 5 second safety time though.
 
The Alan key under the black cover is used to undo and remove the burner, you've detached the whole thing. The electrodes don't look right in terms of position and could be part of the reason it doesn't light sometimes, it doesn't explain why it sometimes ignites and then loses flame during 5 second safety time though.
That capscrew is seriously tight, should the gasket be replaced when burner is split?

wish id paid more attention to what he was doing when he serviced it.
[automerge]1580750082[/automerge]
I’ve contacted a 3 local heating engineers, 1 said he would go with pump bring issue. 1 said possibly pump but wouldn’t be sure and the other said it’s the control box.
 

Official Sponsors of Plumbers Talk

Similar plumbing topics

We recommend City Plumbing Supplies, BES, and Plumbing Superstore for all plumbing supplies.