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I don't think it would be 'crazy' to renew the cylinder at this point. It will probably be a relatively small cost compared with updating the whole system and removing asbestos, which can cost a small fortune. When the time comes to replace the boiler you can decide between a combi, in which case you write off the cost of installing the cylinder, or a system boiler and keep the cylinder. It's possible to have a combi with a cylinder, which is a system that can work well in a biggish house as you get 'instant' hot water for the kitchen from the combi and use the cylinder for baths/showers. You make the decision based on the circumstances at the time, it's difficult to predict what's going to happen to energy costs and installation costs.

Replacing a boiler that old is going to yield a significant reduction in your gas consumption so you are burning money just by delaying its replacement.

You might want to think about moving out for a couple of weeks while the work is done. (Forget covid, I wouldn't want to stick around while the asbestos is being removed.) Maybe rent a holiday cottage for a couple of weeks out of season?
 
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Just had a chat with a even older colleague that used to subcontract for me.
We from memory think the basic model was just called vulcan with a output number after it .
More up market was a viceroy with controls on front both of these were conventional flue. The balanced flue model was called the autostat
At a guess I would say your pump is a old green SMC .
 
Agree not crazy. Combis have their limitations in terms of the amount of hot water that can be obtained at any one time so they aren't for everyone. I'm at my father's house now (his house has what is almost a combi) and I do miss the 20 litres per minute flow my hot water cylinder at home provides, but I only miss it when I run a bath and it is nice to have hot water instantly rather than have to wait for the cylinder to warm up. Depending on your circumstances you might have a new boiler put in but choose not to go for a combi model at all and to keep your cylinder instead.

In fairness to your Vulcan, old boilers did have amazing lifespans, and were relatively low maintenance, but at the cost of reduced efficiency. My own boiler isn't a combi and it dates back to 1988. It's doubtful whether a replacement would make strict economic sense since I only use around £400 gas a year (it might make environmental sense, but so would becoming vegan and that wouldn't cost me £xxxx upfront). If a new boiler makes sense for you is your decision to make.

In terms of your pilot light, I can't say what setting the chap has given and whether it is right or not and I'm not competent to judge what is a 'correct' setting anyway, but I can't see it being too high damaging a heavy cast iron heat exchanger. My mother's old house ran a higher than necessary permanent pilot light from 1990 until she sold the house in 2012 and a gas installer commented that the boiler seemed to be in good condition given it's age. The pilot may use a little extra gas if it is higher than necessary, but I doubt it will be noticeable and if, as I suspect, you have a semi-gravity system (pump stays off when heating hot water only?) the extra heat will mostly circulate into your cylinder so won't really be wasted.
 
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I am so appreciative to you guys. You have made my day with your replies. Thanks so much!

You have scared me about the asbestos though Chuck! I did ask the plumber whether I would need to leave while it was being removed and he said, we would only need to go out in the garden. Is that still not safe? I remember an electrician saying we'd have to leave the house if my parents had the fuse board upgraded years ago, as it contains asbestos (that is still in situ as well. I also read artex ceilings have asbestos. So, it is in multiple places here).

Many thanks exedon2 for asking your colleague about the Vulcan. Really kind of you. It's so great to finally know! A shame they didn't give it a name like the other models. Maybe I should name it myself! Great to know about the pump too.

Many thanks Chuck and Ric for saying I wouldn't be crazy. I wondered, because the plumber kept saying I would be wasting money having a new cylinder.

We didn't discuss in any detail the best option for me, so it's good I am not rushing into the upgrade he suggested with a combi. He recommended a combi, because I live alone and would save money by not heating the cylinder each day, then not using all the hot water, only to heat it again the next day. I didn't tell him that I prefer baths to showers though (shower is electric btw). I can see the advantage of having hot water on tap all the time and never having the inconvenience of it running out though. On the other hand, inconvenient waiting longer for a bath to fill.

It is a 4 bed house with one bathroom (there is a cloakroom downstairs with hot water tap to basin) but just me here.

Thank you for defending our Vulcan Ric! I really appreciate that. As you say, they have amazing lifespans and from what I've read, modern boilers don't last anywhere near as long and I've read combi boilers often develop faults and are pricey to fix. I don't think people should dismiss or make fun of the old boilers so easily, (apart from the environmental issues and cost to run, as you say, depending on circumstances) and appreciate the robustness and longevity they had.

I enjoyed reading about your boiler. Makes me feel like I am not such a freak after all with my lovely relic from the past. I think if I was a plumber, I would be interested in the history of my profession and if I saw an old boiler and pump that I'd never seen before, I would have respect for it, not make fun of it. I am being quite hypocritical saying all of this, as I nagged my dad a lot about upgrading and couldn't understand why he didn't want to (apart from the cost of course). Now I know more about it, I can understand where he was coming from. Sorry Dad.

I recently switched suppliers and I'm paying £64 a month total for gas and electricity. I am not working due to my illness and not claiming benefits either. So, I did try to economise last winter by keeping the heating off as much as possible (difficult when you are home all day). I bought a heated throw, which has been a godsend but it was freezing, every time I went out into the hall/kitchen. Not looking forward to that this winter. Maybe I can use more, as the excess £££ has been building up in my account over summer, as I was hardly ever heating any water, due to the leak in the cylinder (I noticed the leak slowed right down doing this) and then the pilot light went out, so no gas was being used at all.

Thanks so much as well for explaining about the pilot light. It's a relief to know it won't harm the boiler and that it won't make much difference to cost. Yes, you are right, the pump stays off when heating hot water only.

Btw, the quote for cylinder (plus replacing some leaking radiator valves) was: £696 (inc VAT) and the quote for system upgrade was: £4,980 including VAT (that includes removal of asbestos flue by a professional and includes a roofer).
 
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Have just seen a bad review concerning baths, (I prefer a bath each day to shower), for the Vaillant 830 combi boiler the plumber quoted for:-

Vaillant Pure 830 Combi 6 months ago
This is a product review, not aimed at Screwfix who are consistently brilliant. Having taken advice I've had this installed to replace an old fashioned 23 yr old (fully working) Potterton boiler. The flow rate into the bath is so so slow. Vaillant quote 12.4 L/minute, we get 8. It's 15 minutes to get 6" of hot water into the bath and that's with no other tap on. Wouldn't recommend this to anybody.
 
It's disappointing to see Screwfix quoting flow rates for a combi boiler in terms of litres per minute without specifying what temperature increase can be expected at that flow rate. Will mislead many people. That said, I'm not sure where the above reviewer gets the 12.4 l/minute statistic as it is neither stated in the installation instructions nor on the Screwfix website...
 
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It's disappointing to see Screwfix quoting flow rates for a combi boiler in terms of litres per minute without specifying what temperature increase can be expected at that flow rate. Will mislead many people. That said, I'm not sure where the above reviewer gets the 12.4 l/minute statistic as it is neither stated in the installation instructions nor on the Screwfix website...
Is this typical of how long it would take to fill a bath just 6 inches with a combi boiler though, or just a problem with this one? Wouldn't be ideal for me if so.
 
doesnt make sense

on average a stnd bath holds around 100-120l

there getting 8 lpm from there mains cold and it takes 15 mins to get 6"so around 1/3 capacity ish

8x15 = 120l so a full bath 😀

me thinking the boiler is not at fault
 
You have scared me about the asbestos though Chuck! I did ask the plumber whether I would need to leave while it was being removed and he said, we would only need to go out in the garden. Is that still not safe?
I think that you need to get your advice from the people that are actually going to do the removal. If it's a straightforward job with easy access I guess it may only take a few hours from start to finish.
 
Please could one of you advise a good adjustable spanner to buy to adjust the packing nut in a radiator valve. I think that’s what the nut is called. I want to see if I can stop the small leak there.
 
Please could one of you advise a good adjustable spanner to buy to adjust the packing nut in a radiator valve. I think that’s what the nut is called. I want to see if I can stop the small leak there.
You won't go far wrong with Bahco. That said, adjusting a gland packing nut shouldn't need much force, so any adjustable spanner is likely to be good enough for that job.

me thinking the boiler is not at fault
I reckon it's an illegal DIY boiler install and it's been done badly and now the installer is blaming the boiler. In any case, sounds very much like the reviewer is confused because, as you say, the maths is incoherent.
 
Thanks Ric. Can you tell me what size though, as I have seen all different sizes?
Well, the point is the jaw opening (the width the spanner need to be to fit the size of the nut (measured across two opposite sides of the hexagon (i.e. across flats)) is adjustable from nil to whatever the maximum jaw opening is for that particular spanner so, in that sense, there is no such thing as a too big adjustable spanner. Most 6" length adjustable spanners will open to at least 24mm (just under an inch) so any of those would be big enough for the average gland nut. Longer spanners will have wider jaw openings and will give you more leverage but are increasingly bulky and can be annoying in confined spaces.

I find an 8" length adjustable spanner to be a generally useful size.
 
Well, the point is the jaw opening (the width the spanner need to be to fit the size of the nut (measured across two opposite sides of the hexagon (i.e. across flats)) is adjustable from nil to whatever the maximum jaw opening is for that particular spanner so, in that sense, there is no such thing as a too big adjustable spanner. Most 6" length adjustable spanners will open to at least 24mm (just under an inch) so any of those would be big enough for the average gland nut. Longer spanners will have wider jaw openings and will give you more leverage but are increasingly bulky and can be annoying in confined spaces.

I find an 8" length adjustable spanner to be a generally useful size.
Thanks for your help again Ric.

I will probably go for this one:
 
Well, the point is the jaw opening (the width the spanner need to be to fit the size of the nut (measured across two opposite sides of the hexagon (i.e. across flats)) is adjustable from nil to whatever the maximum jaw opening is for that particular spanner so, in that sense, there is no such thing as a too big adjustable spanner. Most 6" length adjustable spanners will open to at least 24mm (just under an inch) so any of those would be big enough for the average gland nut. Longer spanners will have wider jaw openings and will give you more leverage but are increasingly bulky and can be annoying in confined spaces.

I find an 8" length adjustable spanner to be a generally useful size.
I bought a 6" Bahco adjustable spanner in the end.

I tried adjusting the gland packing nut but it is stuck solid. I can't loosen or tighten it. Any advice please, or should I leave well alone?
 
I bought a 6" Bahco adjustable spanner in the end.

I tried adjusting the gland packing nut but it is stuck solid. I can't loosen or tighten it. Any advice please, or should I leave well alone?
I bought some PTFE tape as well, so I could try repacking to stop the leak, if tightening the nut didn't work (watched some videos) but as I said, the nut is stuck solid, so can't do anything at the moment.
 
Probably limescale. WD40?
Tried some 3in1 oil and still couldn’t move it at all. Also, tried heat from a hairdryer.

I experimented afterwards with a different radiator that still has a shiny clean gland/nut and I couldn’t budge that either way either!

What am I doing wrong or have they just been screwed in super tight by plumbers in the past and I am not able to grip them well enough or budge them with my little spanner?

When I watched utube video, the guy used next to no force at all, so I am thinking they have just been screwed in extremely tight?
 
Tried some 3in1 oil and still couldn’t move it at all. Also, tried heat from a hairdryer.

I experimented afterwards with a different radiator that still has a shiny clean gland/nut and I couldn’t budge that either way either!

What am I doing wrong or have they just been screwed in super tight by plumbers in the past and I am not able to grip them well enough or budge them with my little spanner?

When I watched utube video, the guy used next to no force at all, so I am thinking they have just been screwed in extremely tight?
Here is a pic of the non-leaking newer nut. Leaking one is same type. As I said, can't undo either of them.
 

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