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- Thread starter BlockABoots
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- replacing room thermostat
Nah, i came across a few other threads on different forms who had the same colour wires as mine and every replied said to connected red to A, yellow to B and terminate the blue
Yeah if i lower the target temp below the room temp the flame disappears and the boiler goes off
I was questioning if the digital thermostat should still be displaying the 'calling for heat' icon (flame) when i had turned the heating off or if it should disappear
I’m getting confused! so if you turn the thermostat up it comes on? But if you turn it to 5 degrees the flame stays on?
So you have stated above that the flame symbol. Which is the symbol that shows the stat is calling for heat or not goes off then there is no issue. Unless you are talking about something else?
Thanks for the help guys!
Now i just need to calibrate the target temp so the heat level is just right.....why do they insist on putting room thermostats in hall ways where is probably one of the more coldest areas of a house!??
Now i just need to calibrate the target temp so the heat level is just right.....why do they insist on putting room thermostats in hall ways where is probably one of the more coldest areas of a house!??
No you misunderstand.....
When the target temp of the thermostat is set higher than the current room temp the flame is displayed as its calling for heat and the boiler fires up to reach the target temp.
If i set the thermostat target temp lower than the current room temp than the flame disappears and the boiler goes off. This as it stands is all operating as it should do.
But what i did notice that if i turned the heating off from the CP then the flame icon on the thermostat was still being display as it was still calling for heat as the thermostat hadn't reach its target temperature. I was questioning weather the thermostat should still be displaying the flame even though the heating was turned off via the CP, but as Ric2013 pointed out the thermostat isnt advanced enough to know that the CP has switched the heating off.....im guessing if i wanted an intelligent enough thermostat for that i would have to spend more than the £30 i paid for this honeywell one!
To answer your question on why the stat is generally in the hallway, it is because the hall is generally the last to warm up. If you put a stat in a living room then the living room might warm up first and will be nice and warm, but the rest of the house might still be cold.
I personally dislike this practice, as it assumes that the entire house needs to be heated when, in my opinion, 14°C in a corridor is sufficient for most people, but if the heating has been off and the entire house is at 14°C, then the living rooms will be too cold. This is why I personally prefer multizone systems (or use a wireless stat that you can move around).
In fact, I would argue that a pneumatic time switch that stays on for half an hour after you push it in could be the most energy-efficient stat. When you are cold, you turn it on; when you aren't cold, you simply forget it and the heating goes off again. But then, I am quite alternative in my thinking.
I personally dislike this practice, as it assumes that the entire house needs to be heated when, in my opinion, 14°C in a corridor is sufficient for most people, but if the heating has been off and the entire house is at 14°C, then the living rooms will be too cold. This is why I personally prefer multizone systems (or use a wireless stat that you can move around).
In fact, I would argue that a pneumatic time switch that stays on for half an hour after you push it in could be the most energy-efficient stat. When you are cold, you turn it on; when you aren't cold, you simply forget it and the heating goes off again. But then, I am quite alternative in my thinking.
Blimey, BlockABoots - two pages to get the answer you were after. And you basically worked it out for yourself...
(You were initially confused by that 'neutral' on the diagram seemingly connected to 'B'. But if you look at the diagram again, you'll see that there's a rectangular 'block' on that line coming out of 'B', and that's the boiler, and the 'neutral' is actually connected to the other side of that rectangle! In other words, when your stat closes its contacts inside (when it's calling for heat) the LIVE that's going 'in' 'A' then comes 'out' of 'B' and goes in to one side of the boiler (rectangle). It's then the other side of the boiler that's effectively connected to the neutral. Make sense?)
Anyhoo, that's one issue. The other is the wee 'flame' symbol coming on. The new 'stat is battery operated so works independently of everything else. It hasn't a clue what the rest of the system is doing. It doesn't know if the programmer/timer is on or off. It doesn't know if the boiler is running , or even if it's fallen off the wall.
All it knows - in its isolated, battery-powered world - is whether the temp it is sensing in the air is higher or lower than the temp it's been asked to provide. That's it. If the air is too cold, the wee 'flame' comes on and the two contacts inside close. Once the temp is reached, the flame goes off and the contacts open.
That's it. If your house blew up in a gas explosion - I hope it won't - then amongst the rubble will lie a wee detached DT90 which will still show a flame symbol if it's too cold.
A thought - hadn't you considered a programmable room stat?
(You were initially confused by that 'neutral' on the diagram seemingly connected to 'B'. But if you look at the diagram again, you'll see that there's a rectangular 'block' on that line coming out of 'B', and that's the boiler, and the 'neutral' is actually connected to the other side of that rectangle! In other words, when your stat closes its contacts inside (when it's calling for heat) the LIVE that's going 'in' 'A' then comes 'out' of 'B' and goes in to one side of the boiler (rectangle). It's then the other side of the boiler that's effectively connected to the neutral. Make sense?)
Anyhoo, that's one issue. The other is the wee 'flame' symbol coming on. The new 'stat is battery operated so works independently of everything else. It hasn't a clue what the rest of the system is doing. It doesn't know if the programmer/timer is on or off. It doesn't know if the boiler is running , or even if it's fallen off the wall.
All it knows - in its isolated, battery-powered world - is whether the temp it is sensing in the air is higher or lower than the temp it's been asked to provide. That's it. If the air is too cold, the wee 'flame' comes on and the two contacts inside close. Once the temp is reached, the flame goes off and the contacts open.
That's it. If your house blew up in a gas explosion - I hope it won't - then amongst the rubble will lie a wee detached DT90 which will still show a flame symbol if it's too cold.
A thought - hadn't you considered a programmable room stat?
Roughly translated “I have sausage fingers and keep hitting the wrong keys” 😀
I'm still amazed that on the same forum that whenever anyone mentions gas the stock answer is we won't help because it'd be illegal and dangerous for someone not competent to do the task, I think I'm the only one that has ever mentioned electrical work being a similar matter.
Although, yes, big deal, he's replacing a thermostat, surely electricity, like gas, can be a matter of safety and legality as well?
It is worth noting, however, that since 2013, in England, control wiring for central heating is no longer considered as notifiable work, and so can be legally carried out by amateurs without the need for professional testing (in Wales, central heating control wiring remains notifiable). This does not mean that it need not be tested. Whether notifiable work, as defined in the building regulations, or not, electrical work must be tested to BS7671, which few amateurs will be able to do, through lack of equipment if nothing else.
Although, yes, big deal, he's replacing a thermostat, surely electricity, like gas, can be a matter of safety and legality as well?
It is worth noting, however, that since 2013, in England, control wiring for central heating is no longer considered as notifiable work, and so can be legally carried out by amateurs without the need for professional testing (in Wales, central heating control wiring remains notifiable). This does not mean that it need not be tested. Whether notifiable work, as defined in the building regulations, or not, electrical work must be tested to BS7671, which few amateurs will be able to do, through lack of equipment if nothing else.
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