New Radiator getting hot from hot water heating

[Morpheus Cane]

Hi all,
I had a new boiler fitted and while the plumber was here they fitted two new isolation valves in my airing cupboard so I could easily connect a new radiator in the extension I am building.
Well I have fitted the radiator and all seemed fine until I realised that the radiator also gets warm when the hot water is heating up, I have a combi boiler with a unvented hot water tank in the airing cupboard.
I have attached a photo and put arrows to the new valves.
Hope someone can see a issue and if there is a easy fix or if it will cause issues if left. Thanks

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[ShaunCorbs]

no pic?

 

[Morpheus Cane]

no pic?

Photobucket not showing pictures, will have to work out another way

 

[Morpheus Cane]

 

[Riley]

Is it just the pic or is the return pipe to the new rad teed into the return pipe from the cylinder?? If so then there’s your problem. Piped wrong

 

[Morpheus Cane]

Is it just the pic or is the return pipe to the new rad teed into the return pipe from the cylinder??

The lower pipe is teed in to the tank return! Says primary coil on the tank lable The radiator does get hot as normal when heating is running but I must double check this.

 

[Riley]

Rule of thumb is that return from cylinder is the last tee before return goes back to the boiler. The rad is probably heating in reverse when the water is on the way back to the boiler. Was this done by a plumber??

 

[kris]

Yeh Morpheus , it's piped wrong , I mean the radiator return pipe is teed into the return pipe but in the wrong place , where the automatic bypass valve is is just a loop under the floor to the main return pipe running up the wall in the pic with 2 white elbows behind the flow isolator , so if the rad had been teed in there then no risk of back flow ,,,

 

[Morpheus Cane]

It was done by the plumber who fitted the boiler

 

[Riley]

Get him back he has fubar’d

 

[Morpheus Cane]

Sounds like I need too, is it safe to run it like that or should I close the isolation valves?

 

[Riley]

It’s safe just annoying. Good luck

 

[Morpheus Cane]

So if I get the pipe marked with a green arrow and get it teed where the orange arrow is that would work correctly?

View attachment 33212

 

[Riley]

No that’s flow

 

[Morpheus Cane]

Sorry to keep going on I just want to make sure I know what pipe is wrong so when I get him back I know what I'm talking about
So is it the green arrowed pipe that is wrong or was I right in the previous picture just replacing it in the wrong place?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

no green is right its the other lever valve

 

[Riley]

As above the other valve needs to be teed into the return before the point that the cylinder return joins it

 

[Morpheus Cane]

Ok last picture I hope 🙂

 

[Morpheus Cane]

So have I got it right in the previous post picture? Sorry for keep asking just annoyed that it's been done wrong and have to get it redone 🙁

 

[ShaunCorbs]

nope sorry to say still wrong needs to go into the main return back to your boiler

 

[Morpheus Cane]

Thanks for reply Shaun, so right valve to be moved just need to find out which pipe is the main return to boiler, wish they put nice labels on pipes for people like me

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Thanks for reply Shaun, so right valve to be moved just need to find out which pipe is the main return to boiler, wish they put nice labels on pipes for people like me

your heating/plumber engy should know if he doesnt well theres something wrong 😀

 

[Morpheus Cane]

your heating/plumber engy should know if he doesnt well theres something wrong 😀

lol, he should know but he got it wrong first time so I can't say I have full confidence in his workmanship 🙂

 

[ShaunCorbs]

lol, he should know but he got it wrong first time so I can't say I have full confidence in his workmanship 🙂

easy way get another one if you dont trust him

 

[gassed up]

You could put a non return valve somewhere on the return pipe going to the rad, with the arrow facing towards the isolation valve. That should stop the reverse flow and allow it to work as normal.

 

[Morpheus Cane]

I was wondering the same, I think this may be a easier option than trying to find the correct part of the pipe to tee off from.

 

[Riley]

Bit of a bodge though and check valve will likely stick if your central heating water isn’t the cleanest

 

[plumbfantastic]

There should be 2 motorised valves on the primary flow to the cylinder. One is wired up via a enrgy cutout to prevent the hot water reaching over 85°c

 

[ShaunCorbs]

There should be 2 motorised valves on the primary flow to the cylinder. One is wired up via a enrgy cutout to prevent the hot water reaching over 85°c

Only if a 3 port is used no need when it's a 2 port

 

[plumbfantastic]

G3 states that there should be at least one 2 port connected via the energy cutout including 3 port valves be it flow share or hot water priority

 

[ShaunCorbs]

G3 states that there should be at least one 2 port connected via the energy cutout including 3 port valves be it flow share or hot water priority

Yes that's only for 3 port valves no need when it's an s plan system