Advice for long pipe run for outside tap.

[mutley racers]

Good morning chaps. Am in need of some help. I have just went to see a job in a little church hall. The custard would like me to run a pipe for an outside tap 25meters as low as possible.

Can i run this in soft copper and insulate and bury it underground? Or plastic maybe? Mdpe?

I know that the incoming main is supposed to be between 750 and 1300 but is this really the case for a garden tap?

It is a straight run just along the outside wall.

Would really appreciate some guidance.

Regards

Mutley

 

[ecowarm]

You could run in black mdpe on the surface just above ground and have it isolated and drained in the winter. Black MDPE is UV stabalised.

 

[mutley racers]

Thanks for the reply Ecoworm. The custard, really wants to have it burried just below the ground as it's a school whith around 8 pupils. Young kids.

Would it be possible to just dig about a foot down and wrap in insulation with mdpe and maybe that would protect it?

 

[Guest123]

You'll really have to bury it deeper than a foot, in case someone punctures it by accident and to protect against frost.

 

[GQuigley67]

cover yourself and bury it at least 750mm

 

[ecowarm]

I would say if you bury it lower than a foot out the way of the gardener and isolated during the winter with the tap left open or well insulated

 

[mutley racers]

Thanks guys. I think i will go with what you say ecoworm. It is going to be right up against the side of the building so the gardener wont go there.

Also, does anyone know where to get some boxing for some pipe runs of old central heating pipes. I know of the ones which you use clips with the pipe and then the boxing covers the pipes by clipping onto the clips. But, the clips and pipes are already there, so i need some that can just fit over the top without disturbing the pipes.

Cheers

 

[mutley racers]

Oh and while am here i may as well ask.... Do you know of any good hollow wall anchors available to hang reasonably sized rad onto a stud wall with plaster board?

 

[GQuigley67]

I have some pipes to box in on a job, but I was going to use skirting with a bit of wood on the top and mitre the skirting at the corner, will look better than plastic conduit that you get.

 

[WaterTight]

with your outside tap run, don't make the pipe longer than 1000 miles. we think it might cause problems.

 

[AWheating]

[DLMURL="http://www.standpipes.com/index.php?page=productpage&product=48b7cb988425c"]Edwards Standpipes - Edwards Engineering Manufacturers of Stainless Steel Water Standpipes[/DLMURL]

i have fitted plenty of these in the past, set to a depth of 750mm. insures you stick to correct depth and is insulated, lockable and vandal proof.

 

[mutley racers]

Thanks guys. All the help appreciated.

Am just going to bury a couple of foot and tell the guy he needs to drain it down for winter.

I just hope that they actually take what i say literally and do it.

Regards

Mutley

 

[GQuigley67]

Thanks guys. All the help appreciated.

Am just going to bury a couple of foot and tell the guy he needs to drain it down for winter.

I just hope that they actually take what i say literally and do it.

Regards

Mutley

even if they don't you might get a job out ouf it 😛

 

[Paulus]

The trouble is the customer will blame you when someone puts a spade through it or it bursts in winter coz you didn't bury it deep enough. If he came onto this forum when it bursts asking if the plumber was at fault for not burying it properly I'm pretty sure the answer would be a unanimous yes.

I'm not into providing myself with unpaid work in the future, are you? If he wants a proper job he has to pay for it to be done properly and that means paying for you to dig.

 

[Paulus]

Alternatively tell him the pro's and con's of shallow or deep pipework and let him make the decision. If he chooses shallow, put that in writing to him and keep a copy for future reference if he has a problem. In other words "pass the buck".

 

[WaterTight]

bang on.