Advice Sought on Ovens & Cookers

[TerryWaite]

Hi there, this is my first post in the forum. I am primarily an industrial heating engineer, who has recently done my domestic ACS, just after some advice as I really dont have much experience in the domestic sector. Any advice at all would be much appreciated, I want to find the correct procedure for doing things, and not cut corners. I have a few questions in this post, here goes:

- If I were installing a built-under gas oven and gas hob, I know the hob has to be rigid piped, but what about the oven? it sounds stupid but I have never installed a built under/built-in oven before I am presuming the oven needs to be on a flexi so it can slide back. Are the oven housing brackets and things easy to install?

- Also, I know the regs say each appliance needs its own isolating valve, would 1 valve for the 2 suffice here seeing as they are so close together? and would you position the valve(s) at the back of the oven or in the next unit along if possible where they are more readily accessible?

- I have noticed on some hobs, they have a steel elbow fitting with a washer in one side, and a flat faced parallel male thread on the other, what the hell do I use to connect onto this? cant use a female BSP fitting as its not tapered and doesnt tighten up, definitely cant use a tap connector although I bet some people have probably tried it!!

- Would it be better to use restrictor elbows for isolation valves or 1/4 turn gas cocks? and why do some gas cocks have a big nut thing coming out the rear of the body behind where the thumb turn handle is? as this makes it hard to clip without offseting the pipe.

That is about it for now, oh, and er, what do you wear if there is inclement weather? jokes 🙂 Thanks for any replies I may get. Your help is much needed and appreciated.

 

[SimonJohns]

I'll answer one for you

Hob has 1/4 turn isolator
Oven has a bayonet fitting for the flexi to go in to, the bayonet fitting is classed as a point if isolation

 

[SimonJohns]

Hob connections are done with female irons, but you have to use a suitable gas fibre washer

 

[REDSAW]

Hob connections are done with female irons, but you have to use a suitable gas fibre washer

why?.?.

 

[SimonJohns]

why?.?.

Why what?

 

[Rickster123]

I think he's asking why you need a fibre washer? Gas paste and tighten. And the op's question is a little worrying for somebody who has passed their acs imho.

 

[wazzer]

I use Loctite 55 pipe seal chord and a gas hob restrictor from BES part no. 12880 some of the ovens leave you no room at all.Why go from commercial to domestic isn't that a backward step....

 

[REDSAW]

could be a diy step too,
i was asking about the fiber washer, i just paste and cramp?.

 

[armourer]

My reasoning for using a washer is simple. If you leave it out you may over tighten it causing problems if it has to come out later.

With a washer it does not have to be graunched so much. (is that even a real word?).

 

[TerryWaite]

I can see how this is worrying for someone who has passed thier ACS. The course was a short course with alot crammed into a very short space of time and in my opinion it was too much to take in so soon, nothing like doing an apprenticeship. I just dont have all that much experience with cooking appliances, my on-job experience was mainly boilers and fires.

Thanks for the answers regarding the fittings, simon I know what youre saying about the fibre washer, it is a flat-faced parallel male thread that looks like it is designed for a washer, it already has 1 washer on one side of it, but was just wondering what fitting you would use as a female iron would not tighten up as the male thread is not tapered. and you cant put a fibre washer in a female iron as it doesnt have a flat face to accept a washer.

 

[TerryWaite]

graunched is an awesome word

 

[johnnyplumb]

Parallel male to parallel female ok. Tapered male to tapered female ok. Tapered male to parallel female ok. Parallel male to tapered female Not ok This is my undestanding.