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Deleted member 93861

Hi Last year I replaced a Thermostatic bar shower mixer valve in a rented property and all seemed ok ,but recently the owner said it wasn't working properly .When you turn on the valve nothing happens but if you turn on the bath tap briefly, it works fine ., they also made it work by twisting temperature valve which was not in the default position & seems to be their go to method ,but it didn't work when I tried it.The shower is fed by a pump and feeds another shower on-suite which has no problems, but the pump does not come on if the bath is used. On inspection the filters were clear and when installed again it worked as it should, but the next day people had used and it was not working properly again .Could it be the original installer did not put non return valves on the feeds
Thanks for any advise 🙂
 
Recheck the pipework runs if you can sounds like when the bath is turned on with the shower valve the fluctuation is activating the float switch in the pump ,should be independent supplies but if it was retrofitted it might have always been wrong from day one hope that helps Tom
 
What head of water (cold tank) is on the shower head?
Are the pipe runs done up and over?
Is the pump positive or negative head?
Did you also check the filters that are inside the pump inlets (or some have inlet washer filters) ?
Also are the float switches clean and freely moving?
 
Recheck the pipework runs if you can sounds like when the bath is turned on with the shower valve the fluctuation is activating the float switch in the pump ,should be independent supplies but if it was retrofitted it might have always been wrong from day one hope that helps Tom
Thanks, I think your right about that -I'll check it tomorrow cheers
 
What head of water (cold tank) is on the shower head?
Are the pipe runs done up and over?
Is the pump positive or negative head?
Did you also check the filters that are inside the pump inlets (or some have inlet washer filters) ?
Also are the float switches clean and freely moving?
Thanks I'll check it tomorrow
 
What head of water (cold tank) is on the shower head?
Are the pipe runs done up and over?
Is the pump positive or negative head?
Did you also check the filters that are inside the pump inlets (or some have inlet washer filters) ?
Also are the float switches clean and freely moving?
Ok sorry for delay
so its positive head system
Cold gravity fed 2.5 metres from bottom of tank to hot tank
pipe runs underfloor same level
Pump filters had very little limescale but mesh was clear
looks like all other taps on this floor are on same pump
as to the float switches, I didn't take them out incase it broke -looked clear -
Salamander pump Right RSP 75
static head Max 10 metres
Max liquid temp 65c
Duty Lpm 2.15 bar max 2.2bar
2010 installed
hazels house.jpg

flanged on top tank
IMG_1645.JPG
Water tank and pump.jpg

IMG_1630.JPG


Just before I turned on the electric to pump I run the shower and it worked although weak -but went back to delayed action with power on and requiring tap or other shower to work again
 
View attachment 33915 Is this the answer or a complete pump?

No, if you had to replace your existing pump you would need a twin pump similar looking to what you have at present. You can get them in negative head which have a small expansion vessel on them. I actually think your pump should work as the head of water to both cold and hot is what starts your existing. If you have a shower handset attached to a shower hose (not fixed) and lower the handset every time you want the shower pump to start, you might find it works.
Otherwise a negative head pump is the answer and will always start as there is a pressure charge in the outlet pipes with it.
The Monsoon negative head is about £400 for 2 bar and just under £500 for 3bar from Screwfix but it is superb. I would go 3bar.
It is on internet for as little as circa £430 if you look
 
  • Agree
Reactions: Dkdc71
No, if you had to replace your existing pump you would need a twin pump similar looking to what you have at present. You can get them in negative head which have a small expansion vessel on them. I actually think your pump should work as the head of water to both cold and hot is what starts your existing. If you have a shower handset attached to a shower hose (not fixed) and lower the handset every time you want the shower pump to start, you might find it works.
Otherwise a negative head pump is the answer and will always start as there is a pressure charge in the outlet pipes with it.
The Monsoon negative head is about £400 for 2 bar and just under £500 for 3bar from Screwfix but it is superb. I would go 3bar.
It is on internet for as little as circa £430 if you look

Thanks will talk to owner when back from holiday
cheers
 
Spot on as usual Corbs, could end up with an expensive burnt out pump if the hot feed isn’t piped correctly from the cylinder. Get your G3 and go with an unvented, admittedly it’s more money upfront, but the customer will be happy, and you won’t get called back
 

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