Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
B
Bernie2
Insulation tests do not tell you how good the earth is just that one wire is insulted from the other and how good that insulation is. An Earth loop test tells you how much current your earth path will take. It would be point less earthing with fine wire it would burn out if you got a 230 volt 13 amp fault discharging to earth and leave your pipework still live and able to deliver a big shock for anybody touching it.
The RCD is intended to sense the current is the same voltage in both the Neutral and Positive wire in the cable. If its equal it stays open, if its more in one wire than it is in the other it shuts down because in an AC system it means the current is running to earth somewhere. But its relying on a mechanical RCD to always be working and not seized up over many years. That is why they have test buttons on them that should be tested every month or so. But who does?
It is right though, you do not have to supplementary bond providing the pipework is connected somewhere along its length to the main Earthing point and protected by an RCD. But how would you know it was connected without testing the earth and how good was the connection?
Anyway as Tamz says its not our job, but its interesting.
The RCD is intended to sense the current is the same voltage in both the Neutral and Positive wire in the cable. If its equal it stays open, if its more in one wire than it is in the other it shuts down because in an AC system it means the current is running to earth somewhere. But its relying on a mechanical RCD to always be working and not seized up over many years. That is why they have test buttons on them that should be tested every month or so. But who does?
It is right though, you do not have to supplementary bond providing the pipework is connected somewhere along its length to the main Earthing point and protected by an RCD. But how would you know it was connected without testing the earth and how good was the connection?
Anyway as Tamz says its not our job, but its interesting.
Bernie, you are getting a little bit confused I think.
An earth loop impedance tester will tell you what the resistance is for the 'loop' between live and earth and what the prospective fault current is for a particular circuit. This then allows you to calculate the disconnection time for you to confirm that the circuit protective device (fuse, circuit breaker etc) is suitable and will disconnect within the allowable time according to BS7671.
We are talking about measuring the potential difference between earth and an extraneous conductive part (pipework) and effectively the extraneous conductive part and the human body.
The metallic part can be assumed not to be an extraneous-conductive-part if the following condition is met:
Rcp> (Uo/Ib) - Ztl
where,
Rcp is the resistance between the conductive part and the MET (main earth terminal) in ohms
Uo is the nominal voltage to Earth in volts
Ib is the value of current through the body in amperes that should not be exceeded (10mA according to GN8)
Ztl is the impedance of the human body in ohms. 1000 ohms where Uo is 230 V (50 Hz) under dry or wet conditions.
Rcp > (230/0.01) - 1000 / (23000) - 1000
Rcp > 22000ohms
....so if the resistance between the MET and the part in question is above 22000ohms, it is not considered to be an extraneous-conductive part and does not require bonding.
You test this with an insulation resistance tester at 500v.
Basically if the resistence of the path to earth of the pipework is high enough, the potential difference will be so small that you will not receive a shock or that it will be so small that it is deemed not be be unsafe.
Yes it's complicated, yes it's nothing to do with the job of a plumber but, this is the correct method for testing if your pipes underneath the boiler need bonding if no RCD is present, which is why I said earlier, if there's no RCD you would be better off just doing it!
and yes I did copy and paste it from another source as I couldn't remember the equation, just the figures and how to do it!
This is why when I hear people say that electrics is easier than gas etc I disagree, there are more equations and maths involved being an electrician by far, and my brain doesn't store equations very well so I am constantly having to refer back to the books when I doing electrical, where as gas/plumbing/heating tends to stick in the brain a bit easier, although maybe that is because I started life as a gas engineer so it is second nature.
An earth loop impedance tester will tell you what the resistance is for the 'loop' between live and earth and what the prospective fault current is for a particular circuit. This then allows you to calculate the disconnection time for you to confirm that the circuit protective device (fuse, circuit breaker etc) is suitable and will disconnect within the allowable time according to BS7671.
We are talking about measuring the potential difference between earth and an extraneous conductive part (pipework) and effectively the extraneous conductive part and the human body.
The metallic part can be assumed not to be an extraneous-conductive-part if the following condition is met:
Rcp> (Uo/Ib) - Ztl
where,
Rcp is the resistance between the conductive part and the MET (main earth terminal) in ohms
Uo is the nominal voltage to Earth in volts
Ib is the value of current through the body in amperes that should not be exceeded (10mA according to GN8)
Ztl is the impedance of the human body in ohms. 1000 ohms where Uo is 230 V (50 Hz) under dry or wet conditions.
Rcp > (230/0.01) - 1000 / (23000) - 1000
Rcp > 22000ohms
....so if the resistance between the MET and the part in question is above 22000ohms, it is not considered to be an extraneous-conductive part and does not require bonding.
You test this with an insulation resistance tester at 500v.
Basically if the resistence of the path to earth of the pipework is high enough, the potential difference will be so small that you will not receive a shock or that it will be so small that it is deemed not be be unsafe.
Yes it's complicated, yes it's nothing to do with the job of a plumber but, this is the correct method for testing if your pipes underneath the boiler need bonding if no RCD is present, which is why I said earlier, if there's no RCD you would be better off just doing it!
and yes I did copy and paste it from another source as I couldn't remember the equation, just the figures and how to do it!
This is why when I hear people say that electrics is easier than gas etc I disagree, there are more equations and maths involved being an electrician by far, and my brain doesn't store equations very well so I am constantly having to refer back to the books when I doing electrical, where as gas/plumbing/heating tends to stick in the brain a bit easier, although maybe that is because I started life as a gas engineer so it is second nature.
Last edited:
T
tamz
^^why it should be left to those who know how^^
It is not our concern and our only responsibility is whether a gas pipe has a 10mm bond or not and inform the customer or householder.
Now that is another one.
We (generally) have no qualifications experience equipment or knowledge of how electrics work or how to test them.
I've found gas pipes bonded to nothing (bit of cable stuck under a floor) i've found 1 that was bonded to itself (the earth wire was actually soldered to the gas pipe under the floor and tagged at the meter) so who or what is to say it is our responsibility or would we be liable if anything were to happen because we said the meb was present and (assumed) ok?
Seeing is not believing!
Has anyone ever died touching an unbonded gas pipe or appliance in everyday normal operation?
Has there ever been a case of a gas explosion cause by no earth bond?
Should we, even if we say the bond is present and correct also recommend it is properly checked because we really haven't a clue?
If we fit a heating system should we be recommending a visit from an electrician?
If you fit a speedfit fitting to a copper pipe are you then liable if anyone got a skelp?
Questions questions :smile:
It is not our concern and our only responsibility is whether a gas pipe has a 10mm bond or not and inform the customer or householder.
Now that is another one.
We (generally) have no qualifications experience equipment or knowledge of how electrics work or how to test them.
I've found gas pipes bonded to nothing (bit of cable stuck under a floor) i've found 1 that was bonded to itself (the earth wire was actually soldered to the gas pipe under the floor and tagged at the meter) so who or what is to say it is our responsibility or would we be liable if anything were to happen because we said the meb was present and (assumed) ok?
Seeing is not believing!
Has anyone ever died touching an unbonded gas pipe or appliance in everyday normal operation?
Has there ever been a case of a gas explosion cause by no earth bond?
Should we, even if we say the bond is present and correct also recommend it is properly checked because we really haven't a clue?
If we fit a heating system should we be recommending a visit from an electrician?
If you fit a speedfit fitting to a copper pipe are you then liable if anyone got a skelp?
Questions questions :smile:
so who or what is to say it is our responsibility or would we be liable if anything were to happen because we said the meb was present and (assumed) ok?
Has anyone ever died touching an unbonded gas pipe or appliance in everyday normal operation?
Possibly if they were holding onto it and it was introducing a fault current
Has there ever been a case of a gas explosion cause by no earth bond?
That's not what it's there for and we all know that you'd need a 5-15% gas/air mix within the pipe anyway :44:
If we fit a heating system should we be recommending a visit from an electrician?
If in doubt I guess so. The reality is wiring itself isn't very complicated is it, a bit like painting by numbers, but testing is where things get complicated and if your signing work off then you take the responsibility that goes with it.
If you fit a speedfit fitting to a copper pipe are you then liable if anyone got a skelp?
Doubt it would make that much odds really as water is conductive.
Last edited:
S
Scoobydoo
Bernie, please listen to sambotc, as what you are saying is not correct. You obviously have some knowledge, but "a little knowledge" and all that...
Hi, can I just throw a few bits into this long running thread.
1. Another one of the common misconception to do with water (implanted by school teachers) water itself does not conduct electricity, its the bits in it that do, so pumps using probe set controls (low voltage) can not be used with pure water say from condensation sources, they won't work. What's the point of this, well you can't rely on the water inside a pipe as an earth path & yes you must apply bonding across any breaks in metallic pipework created by inserting a plastic fitting. (next they will be tell the kids that hot water / air rises !!)
2. Gas supplier (Transco) came around my house short while ago as I had a leak on the incoming supply. They take the risk of electrocution of their staff (& risk of ignition) so seriously now, that all are issued with a electrical clamp meter which they have to use to test for current flowing through the metallic gas supply. There are 3 level, the second requires temporary earth bonding is applied, the third they will not work on it until the leak / source is found & rectified by you. The damager of cause would only become apparent when they cut through the pipe to carry out repair / replacement. There have been many cases of electrocution or fire from arcing resulting in injuries but can not confirm fatality's. Please use your temporary earth bonds when cutting into water & gas pipes it does happen.
3. Referring to my earlier post in this thread "Did you know that a plumbing apprentice now has to complete 100 + hours of electrical training as part of their level 3, more than cold water or heating !!!!!"
Clearly a knowledge of electrics & electrical systems is now required to be a plumber / heating engineer in the modern wold. To what level this knowledge should extend is the question C&G seem to hold the view that they need to mini elections before they have even mastered plumbing !!! trying to teach an 18-19 year old the vagaries of electrical testing to Part P standards is fun with a capital F.
1. Another one of the common misconception to do with water (implanted by school teachers) water itself does not conduct electricity, its the bits in it that do, so pumps using probe set controls (low voltage) can not be used with pure water say from condensation sources, they won't work. What's the point of this, well you can't rely on the water inside a pipe as an earth path & yes you must apply bonding across any breaks in metallic pipework created by inserting a plastic fitting. (next they will be tell the kids that hot water / air rises !!)
2. Gas supplier (Transco) came around my house short while ago as I had a leak on the incoming supply. They take the risk of electrocution of their staff (& risk of ignition) so seriously now, that all are issued with a electrical clamp meter which they have to use to test for current flowing through the metallic gas supply. There are 3 level, the second requires temporary earth bonding is applied, the third they will not work on it until the leak / source is found & rectified by you. The damager of cause would only become apparent when they cut through the pipe to carry out repair / replacement. There have been many cases of electrocution or fire from arcing resulting in injuries but can not confirm fatality's. Please use your temporary earth bonds when cutting into water & gas pipes it does happen.
3. Referring to my earlier post in this thread "Did you know that a plumbing apprentice now has to complete 100 + hours of electrical training as part of their level 3, more than cold water or heating !!!!!"
Clearly a knowledge of electrics & electrical systems is now required to be a plumber / heating engineer in the modern wold. To what level this knowledge should extend is the question C&G seem to hold the view that they need to mini elections before they have even mastered plumbing !!! trying to teach an 18-19 year old the vagaries of electrical testing to Part P standards is fun with a capital F.
Until the day we have distilled or RO water coming out of our taps, I will assume tap water is conductive! After all if it wasn't then why the need for stricter regulation for electrical work in special locations. Otherwise you'll get people thinking that you can only get electrocuted once you've added the orange squash!
I'm pretty sure I have had a little shock off a gas meter before, just doing a soundness test although it was a long time ago. Cutting into a pipe is a different story as you are very likely to bridge the gap to earth at some point!
Thats why RCDS are so useful and safe and should be fitted wherever possible in my opinion
I'm pretty sure I have had a little shock off a gas meter before, just doing a soundness test although it was a long time ago. Cutting into a pipe is a different story as you are very likely to bridge the gap to earth at some point!
Thats why RCDS are so useful and safe and should be fitted wherever possible in my opinion
Last edited:
OK Sam you win, but my juice (don't have squash we'r posh) is smooth so can't tell how conductive it is ??
Make you right about the RCD's (or RCBO's). Last thought, why do rad's or boilers in all plastic systems require no bonding ??
Make you right about the RCD's (or RCBO's). Last thought, why do rad's or boilers in all plastic systems require no bonding ??
As i'm so sad, but it is also interesting, if i get time later I will do a test with a piece of 15mm. I'll test the resistance off a straight piece of copper, then I will cut a hep fitting into it, then i will fill it with water as see what the results are.
re: plastic piepwork, they may do, if when you test them they have a resistance of less than 22k to earth as they would still be classed as an extraneous-conductive part? It's basically ensuring that the potential between an object that you may be touching and the radiator is not high enough to create a hazard. (equipotential zone)
What I don't understand is how you can get a shock stood on a carpet which is on wooden floorboard, in a pair of shoes with rubber soles by just touching the live conductor. Where did it track back to earth and what would the resistance be? Yet if you are floating in mid air and touched the same live you probably wouldn't get a shock. (not tried)
Don't get me wrong, electricity still mystify's me, but it would seem that it does to a lot of electricians as well in that respect. Not being able to understand where the path to earth is. I've got a metrel multifunction tester and the test button has a metallic button that when touched, won't let you carry out the test if it senses a touch voltage of, i think, 5 volts. It took me ages to figure out what it was doing as the instructions were pants, but it's surprising how often it locks you out, particularly when stood on aluminium steps! (need some new fibreglass ones i think)
re: plastic piepwork, they may do, if when you test them they have a resistance of less than 22k to earth as they would still be classed as an extraneous-conductive part? It's basically ensuring that the potential between an object that you may be touching and the radiator is not high enough to create a hazard. (equipotential zone)
What I don't understand is how you can get a shock stood on a carpet which is on wooden floorboard, in a pair of shoes with rubber soles by just touching the live conductor. Where did it track back to earth and what would the resistance be? Yet if you are floating in mid air and touched the same live you probably wouldn't get a shock. (not tried)
Don't get me wrong, electricity still mystify's me, but it would seem that it does to a lot of electricians as well in that respect. Not being able to understand where the path to earth is. I've got a metrel multifunction tester and the test button has a metallic button that when touched, won't let you carry out the test if it senses a touch voltage of, i think, 5 volts. It took me ages to figure out what it was doing as the instructions were pants, but it's surprising how often it locks you out, particularly when stood on aluminium steps! (need some new fibreglass ones i think)
B
Bernie2
I am sorry you seem to be having trouble understanding me scoobydoo in my explanation of electricity and how it and earth bonding is supposed to work. I am not saying I am right and sambotc is wrong, we are talking about two different tests.
Please go careful scoobydoo and look up Earth loop testing as well as electrical safety testing and why they are done for both your own safety and your customers.
Don't get me wrong I am not advocating plumbers conduct these tests except the basic boiler safety electrical test which they are advised to do after a boiler repair and for which an insulation tester may be very handy. The question was about earth bonding not insulation testing.
I was alluding to the quality of earth and the amount of earth fault charge it can take. Sambotc was referring to the quality of the insulation isolating the wires from each other. They are two different things.
Most MI's will tell you a basic electrical safety test is required on a boiler after any electrical repairs. 🙂 🙂
Please go careful scoobydoo and look up Earth loop testing as well as electrical safety testing and why they are done for both your own safety and your customers.
Don't get me wrong I am not advocating plumbers conduct these tests except the basic boiler safety electrical test which they are advised to do after a boiler repair and for which an insulation tester may be very handy. The question was about earth bonding not insulation testing.
I was alluding to the quality of earth and the amount of earth fault charge it can take. Sambotc was referring to the quality of the insulation isolating the wires from each other. They are two different things.
Most MI's will tell you a basic electrical safety test is required on a boiler after any electrical repairs. 🙂 🙂
B
Bernie2
I am sorry you seem to be having trouble understanding me scoobydoo in my explanation of electricity and how it and earth bonding is supposed to work. I am not saying I am right and sambotc is wrong, we are talking about two different tests.
Please go careful scoobydoo and look up Earth loop testing as well as electrical safety testing and why they are done for both your own safety and your customers.
Don't get me wrong I am not advocating plumbers conduct these tests except the basic boiler safety electrical test which they are advised to do after a boiler repair and for which an insulation tester may be very handy. The question was about earth bonding not insulation testing.
I was alluding to the quality of earth and the amount of earth fault charge it can take. Sambotc was referring to the quality of the insulation isolating the wires from each other. They are two different things.
Most MI's will tell you a basic electrical safety test is required on a boiler after any electrical repairs, but that does not include an earth loop test with an earth loop meter.🙂 🙂
Please go careful scoobydoo and look up Earth loop testing as well as electrical safety testing and why they are done for both your own safety and your customers.
Don't get me wrong I am not advocating plumbers conduct these tests except the basic boiler safety electrical test which they are advised to do after a boiler repair and for which an insulation tester may be very handy. The question was about earth bonding not insulation testing.
I was alluding to the quality of earth and the amount of earth fault charge it can take. Sambotc was referring to the quality of the insulation isolating the wires from each other. They are two different things.
Most MI's will tell you a basic electrical safety test is required on a boiler after any electrical repairs, but that does not include an earth loop test with an earth loop meter.🙂 🙂
Hi Bernie2,
We are talking about supplementary bonding in this thread which has nothing to do with the connection to earth (not bonding) within the fused spur or similar :stooge_curly:
You are right you should test there is a path to earth before connecting, but unless you understand disconnection times with regards to the circuit protective device, you will not be able to make an informed decision on whether or not the earth loop impedance test is satisfactory or not anyway. You are mearly testing for continuity between the fused spur and the main earth terminal.
As most boilers rely on flame rectification devices to ensure the burner is lit, most boilers wouldn't fire without some kind of path to earth anyway, although I am not saying there is no need to test.
What tester are you using to carry out the earth loop impedance test bernie2 and what result are you getting from it out of curiosity?
We are talking about supplementary bonding in this thread which has nothing to do with the connection to earth (not bonding) within the fused spur or similar :stooge_curly:
You are right you should test there is a path to earth before connecting, but unless you understand disconnection times with regards to the circuit protective device, you will not be able to make an informed decision on whether or not the earth loop impedance test is satisfactory or not anyway. You are mearly testing for continuity between the fused spur and the main earth terminal.
As most boilers rely on flame rectification devices to ensure the burner is lit, most boilers wouldn't fire without some kind of path to earth anyway, although I am not saying there is no need to test.
What tester are you using to carry out the earth loop impedance test bernie2 and what result are you getting from it out of curiosity?
Last edited:
S
Scoobydoo
As a fully qualified, apprenticeship served, part P registered electrician with over 20 years experience, I don't think that I need telling about "Earth loop testing", as you call it. sambotc gave a good explanation and clearly understands the difference between earthing and bonding, along with which tests are required. The cable "bonding" sizes are laid down in the IET 17th edition regulations, you do not need to work them out. I apologise if I have offended you, but I am very worried that you are getting confused over this subject. I will give up now and wish you all the best.
Btw, for those interested, water itself is a very poor conductor. A bathroom and shower room is a special location due to the fact that after immersion in water, your body resistance will drop considerably and you are at a much higher risk of receiving a shock (along with the fact that you will be barefoot).
A kitchen is a special location in building regs only, not the electrical regs, due to the fact that you will be using hand-held equipment in a room where water is used.
Last edited by a moderator:
Can't argue with that, glad to hear that I have the right end of the stick as it is often discussed in much detail in electrical forums by qualified electricians with some confusion.
Can you confirm whether or not there are any regulations regarding bridging plastic fittings within BS7671 as I can't find it! Surely it depends what the fitting is on and whether or not it forms part of the main equipotential bonding or supplementary bonding? If the later then I would imagine a plastic fitting would actually help as it will increase resistance and lower the potential?
Can you confirm whether or not there are any regulations regarding bridging plastic fittings within BS7671 as I can't find it! Surely it depends what the fitting is on and whether or not it forms part of the main equipotential bonding or supplementary bonding? If the later then I would imagine a plastic fitting would actually help as it will increase resistance and lower the potential?
S
Scoobydoo
The whole point of main bonding is to stop a potential difference occurring when extraneous conductive parts (metalwork brought into the building and in contact with the general mass of earth) enter a property
If the electrician bonds back to the MET in 10mm any metalwork entering the property (gas/oil/water), then technically that risk has been dealt with, as any further metalwork on the other side of a plastic join will not be connected to that particular pipe or structure. In the event of a fault, the incoming pipe will be connected to the main earthing terminal and therefore cannot create a potential difference (voltage) due to the earth reference being different to anything else entering the property. As you have said, if a service entering the building has a resistance of 23k ohms or above when tested against the MET, then it is considered to not be an ECP and will not require main bonding..... That said, many electricians will main bond a service entering a property, regardless of all this if so that they are covered if that service were to become an ECP at some point in the future. We do NOT bond plastic pipe...ever, but we do bond to copper pipe above the stopcock if it changes to copper. Many designers specify a short length of copper pipe after the stopcock even if the plumbing then reverts back to plastic, for this very reason.
To cut to the chase, if the system requires supplementary bonding (as it does not fulfil the requirements you mentioned in an earlier thread, mainly RCD protection on all circuits in a special location), then plastic connectors will need to be bridged with correctly connected, labelled and sized straps. There is a bit more to it than this unfortunately, and that is why, as others have said, get an electrician to carry out any tests and make the decision on what needs bonding. For all and any tests concerning bonding, a continuity/insulation tester will be the only item of equipment used.
Incidentally, there is NO instance when a plastic fitting helps any situation 🙂
Last edited by a moderator:
B
Bernie2
I was tying to inform the original writer not cause a problem. I am not getting confused at all. Ask yourself what purpose supplementary bonding serves if it is not connected to a low resistance earth path? The 17th edition requires main equipotential bonding to be in place as well as RCD's, if it is not, you may have to bond as per the 16th.
To me it sounds silly not to check the quality of earth as well as its continuity. An earth loop test does both.
You may for instance find yourself in a house with the bonding done in the bathroom so you figure its okay. However the pipework may not have a path to the main house earthing terminal. So a fault current cannot freely flow to earth and cause the disconnect. Until that is you get hold of the pipe yourself and I have been in that situation. The electricity finds it easier to go through you than down the metal pipework.
However as a plumber, you are not usually required to do anything about it, just be aware of the problems. A simple Neutral to Earth and Phase to Earth test using a voltage test lamp should show up any problems. But go careful doing the test for as an earth Loop test it may make anything connected to the earth system live. Phase to Earth should light the test lamp, Neutral to Earth should not.
To me it sounds silly not to check the quality of earth as well as its continuity. An earth loop test does both.
You may for instance find yourself in a house with the bonding done in the bathroom so you figure its okay. However the pipework may not have a path to the main house earthing terminal. So a fault current cannot freely flow to earth and cause the disconnect. Until that is you get hold of the pipe yourself and I have been in that situation. The electricity finds it easier to go through you than down the metal pipework.
However as a plumber, you are not usually required to do anything about it, just be aware of the problems. A simple Neutral to Earth and Phase to Earth test using a voltage test lamp should show up any problems. But go careful doing the test for as an earth Loop test it may make anything connected to the earth system live. Phase to Earth should light the test lamp, Neutral to Earth should not.
Last edited by a moderator:
S
Scoobydoo
With the greatest respect Bernie, we never use an earth fault loop impedance tester for bonding... We use it for testing Ze and Zs on the earthing system, not bonding, which is a completely different kettle of fish.
As sambotc has already written, our EFLI test is to make sure that the "loop" resistance is below a certain amount to allow our circuit protective device to operate within a certain time, such as 1.16 ohms for a 32 amp type B MCB. This is "earthing" and not "bonding".
To make sure that our 10mm main bonding is continuous and correct, we must EITHER -
1) Inspect it along its entire length, or
2) Using the long-lead method, check that it has a nominal resistance from one end to the other.
This is in the regs.
Regarding our supplementary bonding, again we would test between pipework for a nominal resistance if we had ascertained that bonding was indeed required, using the correct sized cable.
If you personally use an EFLI tester to check your bonding, then please tell me how you do it. I would love to know 🙂
Last edited by a moderator:
B
Bernie2
Yes as you say scoobydoo Earth Loop testing is for measuring Ze and Zs internal and external impedance. I am not saying people should test for Earth Loop impedance it can be quite complicated and dangerous in some cases when live testing. But it is thought important enough for Fluke to incorporate an Earth Loop tester into one of its plug top meters. It gives a simple straight forward safe or unsafe reading using minimum set safety values for the earth loop.
I must also say I used a more complicated one than that one that actually gives you a reading so you can work out the potential fault current carrying capacity of the circuit.
Which would be ideal for the likes of a Plumber or gas fitter to test any sockets or otherwise they were considering plugging a boiler into.
My object was to point out to newbies that whilst supplementary bonding may not be required there is quite a lot more to it than just a couple of earth clips and some earth wire. We have obviously been talking at cross purposes. Its good to be friends again.
I must also say I used a more complicated one than that one that actually gives you a reading so you can work out the potential fault current carrying capacity of the circuit.
Which would be ideal for the likes of a Plumber or gas fitter to test any sockets or otherwise they were considering plugging a boiler into.
My object was to point out to newbies that whilst supplementary bonding may not be required there is quite a lot more to it than just a couple of earth clips and some earth wire. We have obviously been talking at cross purposes. Its good to be friends again.
Last edited by a moderator:
Official Sponsors of Plumbers Talk
Similar plumbing topics
We recommend City Plumbing Supplies, BES, and Plumbing Superstore for all plumbing supplies.
