Boiler not staying on

[ShaunCorbs]

Pump isn’t on you should either have lines on the left eg III II I or 4 bar graph so pump looks dead or no power need to confirm there’s 240v going to the pump

Also there’s no head on the 3 port by the looks danfoss make

 

[Craigi1990]

Pump isn’t on you should either have lines on the left eg III II I or 4 bar graph so pump looks dead or no power need to confirm there’s 240v going to the pump

Also there’s no head on the 3 port by the looks danfoss make

Pump has 240v going to it. And the middle light is on. I'll attach a video of what it is doing. It sort of seems to try and go a few times and then the bars and graph lights go out.

I've just put the wiring to a three pin plug in the hope of running it all cold and it's doing the same thing.

Head is on three port now as you had advised, that picture was from the other day

Edit... Just realised there is a whirling noise in the background this is unrelated. The noise happens three time sounds like water moving.

 

[Craigi1990]

Maybe circulate cold water for a hour or so without boiler attempting to fire.
Ensure boiler switched off/shut down, supply pump with independent power and on speed 3, put diverter valve manually to mid position and keep venting everywhere, if energy monitor available note pump power. (don't think its displayed?)

If you eventually think you have circulation, fire up the boiler with pump still on independent power.

I've just tried this, it is doing the same thing. I've attached a video, hard to get the sound, in the above post.

 

[king of pipes]

You need a gas engineer to attend there are to many ifs buts and maybes on this post we are only guessing with the information given, when the boiler fails the sequence of flashing lights on the boiler will denote the fault and help diagnose the problem. Kop

 

[John.g]

I've just tried this, it is doing the same thing. I've attached a video, hard to get the sound, in the above post.

Diverter valve: Port A to CH, Port B to HW. Is yours incorrect?. Also check arrow on pump body is pointing upwards. Are you getting water out of the two manual bottle vents.
What is the red valve to the right of the pump??

 

[Craigi1990]

Diverter valve: Port A to CH, Port B to HW. Is yours incorrect?. Also check arrow on pump body is pointing upwards. Are you getting water out of the two manual bottle vents.
What is the red valve to the right of the pump??

View attachment 62965

I have sort of, with limited knowledge, deduced that it is back to front but it does work. (Sticker displays opposite of what it should). I'd imagine the two wires being a certain way around in the junction box switches the instruction to the motor?

Red valve, I believe, is a bypass to control pressure?

I thunk the pump it knackered tbh, surely the thing should be going around if its plugged in?

 

[John.g]

You would imagine the pump should keep running alright except knackered, a long shot but maybe check the pump motor end cable, this has quick (L-N_E) connections, remove the lead and check these, I have seen one giving intermittent pump running due to poor connection.
Also check ABV (automatic by pass valve setting).
Check label on Diverter valve to ensure its a mid position valve and not just a diverter valve.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Pump fecked

 

[Craigi1990]

Pump fecked

I've ordered a new pump.

As its on the flow side, I'm assuming it's not taking any water away from the boiler therefore the boiler shuts off?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Correct hence the kettling

 

[Craigi1990]

Pump has arrived, I will fit this evening after work.

As its out I might aswell change the washers in there. Are they all the same for Central heating pumps?

I. E will these ones do?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/arcti...L9jHqMe33Xi7i94d7rUaAj6YEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Is there not any supplied with the pump?

 

[John.g]

Pump has arrived, I will fit this evening after work.

As its out I might aswell change the washers in there. Are they all the same for Central heating pumps?

I. E will these ones do?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/arcti...L9jHqMe33Xi7i94d7rUaAj6YEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Rubber type gaskets are normally supplied with any pump, don't like the fiber type as can eventually leak/draw in air.

Is it another Alpha 2L you purchased?.

 

[Craigi1990]

Rubber type gaskets are normally supplied with any pump, don't like the fiber type as can eventually leak/draw in air.

Is it another Alpha 2L you purchased?.

Yes,

I'll be honest, I bought a reconditioned one for now. There is potential that it will be switched to a combi in the next year or so. I just don't have the cash right now to do that

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Just swap the head then 4 Allen bolts and done

 

[Craigi1990]

Just swap the head then 4 Allen bolts and done

I have the other one off already completely already.

 

[Craigi1990]

Just swap the head then 4 Allen bolts and done

The electronics on this one are very slightly different. It has a self vent button on.

 

[Craigi1990]

Just to conclude incase it can help anyone in need in the future. It all seems to be up and running now. Boiler been on 10 minutes. Pump is clearly moving water. 3 port is working as it should be.

So it does seem to have been the pump had died.

Thanks for everybody's advice.

 

[John.g]

Just to conclude incase it can help anyone in need in the future. It all seems to be up and running now. Boiler been on 10 minutes. Pump is clearly moving water. 3 port is working as it should be.

So it does seem to have been the pump had died.

Thanks for everybody's advice.

As a matter of interest, what mode/speed have you set the pump to?.

 

[Craigi1990]

As a matter of interest, what mode/speed have you set the pump to?.

I have it set at 4. 3 Only tends to warm the furthest radiator in the living room. 4 is needed to actually keep it hot. Been that way for the 5 years I've been here.