Copper coils, ok for under floor heating runs?

[Dobbslc]

I need a bit of info on copper coiled pipe, I'm about to run in new radiator pipes downstairs in my house, it's got raised wooden floors with about 12" to the concrete slab, it needs to be copper or rodent proof as I live in the woods and we have mice around! Can the rolls of copper coils be used for this job, do I need inserts to use compression fittings to stop it being crushed? ie the rad valves?
I'll be running them all back to 1 or 2 heating manifolds as I definitely don't want any joints below the floor as we're fitting solid wood flooring ( I've been TOLD it's GOT to be solid wood flooring....😳)
I've got a week off work so want to crack on with this little job....
Any help and advice will be appreciated.
Rob

 

[Scott_D]

You mean microbore?

 

[Riley]

I’d avoid microbore as it may not carry sufficient heat , kinks and blocks easily. Nothing wrong with soldered joints underfloor if done properly

 

[Dobbslc]

Not microbore!
I've done this upstairs in the eaves for the bedrooms so don't mind soldering joints but I don't want any under a floor I can't get up without destroying it!

What are the best options?

 

[Ben-gee]

Most robust is probably a soldered copper joint, they have stood the test of time and are rodent proof. All done properly and pressure tested what are your worries?
If you are not confident enough in your soldering ability, pay a plumber to do it....

 

[Aire]

Copper under floors is fine so long as they are adequately protected. Felt is the usual method but for added protection you can use plastic coated copper and just wrap plenty of felt round your joints. this website shows what it is but would probably need ordering from a local merchant.
Kuterlex – Yorkshire Copper Tube

 

[Riley]

Not microbore!
I've done this upstairs in the eaves for the bedrooms so don't mind soldering joints but I don't want any under a floor I can't get up without destroying it!
View attachment 36993
What are the best options?

So what do you mean if not microbore??

 

[Gasmk1]

Although copper is sold in coils it is not as soft as you think don't think you would be able to get the tight bends and also the lengths you require once uncoiled it stiffens up so bends would need to be done on a machine

 

[Gasmk1]

Why not go with an underlay type that the rodents can't get to

 

[Scott_D]

Mlcp

 

[Dobbslc]

So what do you mean if not microbore??[/QUOTE

Sorry I thought I put the size in the original post! It's 15mm with a bit of 22 for the manifold feeds.

Most robust is probably a soldered copper joint, they have stood the test of time and are rodent proof. All done properly and pressure tested what are your worries?
If you are not confident enough in your soldering ability, pay a plumber to do it..

I'm confident in my ability but don't want one leak to wreak a very expensive floor trying to finding it!

 

[Riley]

That will not be easy to bend

 

[Dobbslc]

Why not go with an underlay type that the rodents can't get to

What's that? Underfloor heating mat.
I'm having radiators only. 🙂

 

[Gasmk1]

What's that? Underfloor heating mat.
I'm having radiators only. 🙂

the way you structure your question it sounds like you were have underfloor heating

 

[Gasmk1]

use coile copper then but its not as cheap and normal lengths of tube

 

[townfanjon]

depending on if your system is sealed or open vented , if sealed , and depending on the size of your rads I would go with 10mm microbore .
Massive rads on open vent system = no

 

[Dobbslc]

I've found Emmeti MLCP and they do the manifolds I'm thinking of, it's got an aluminium core not sure if that's rodent proof but better than straight plastic.
No underfloor joints either!
townfanjon what is considered a massive rad?
It's a vented system with 12 existing rads on the ground floor. Probably be 10 or 11 when I'm done .

 

[Riley]

10 or 11 on the ground floor?? How many upstairs?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

It’s not mouse proof

 

[Welder]

Agree Shaun MLCP is def not rodent proof.
Do it properly with 15 pipe. Remember to lag it properly but make sure you properly pressure test it PRIOR to putting down your floor.

 

[Dobbslc]

Maybe I'm just over thinking it! A parallel run of 22 with T offs to each rad would probably be easier. What's the best way to:
A. Get lengths of copper pipe under the floors in long sections.
B. Do a proper pressure test?
I've got a dry pressure tester that I used on the upstairs pipes but should it be done wet?