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View the thread, titled "Epic soldering failure on shower rough in valve, are inline shutoff valves the problem?" which is posted in Showers and Wetrooms Advice on UK Plumbers Forums.

Howdy I need to install a new rough in valve in my shower-bath. I bought a Delta 10000 UNBX and using the existing 1/2" copper piping was able to fit up the 2 inlets and pipe to the shower head and another to the tub, all 1/2 copper. The bathroom is on the ground level. In the basement right below the bathroom I installed 2 shutoff valves, 1 for cold and another for the hot water feeds. I cleaned the pipes and the valve pockets well I thought. I could not get the solder to melt or run at all. Now I have a few globs of solder on the inlets and will I'm sure struggle getting the setup apart. Could the fact that I have the water shut off so close to the valve be the problem? I way overheated the valve, I'm sure, trying to get the solder to run. The solder was just breaking off at the 90 degree bend I had in it without melting. It seems there is a serious issue that I missed. I almost want to bypass soldering, but I really would like to do it correctly and solder the connections. Could the solder be of poor quality to cause such a failure? I really wanted to get a shower tonight! One good thing the 76ers beat the Lakers tonight! Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Howdy,

Sounds like you have answered your own question, water in the pipes, leaky valves? Have a look at GOT2LEARN (These look like good ole USA spec plumbing). Lots of videos e.g.


Just Google and see what else they have for what you are doing. Good answers from the forum pro's above on how to avoid the problem - need some kind of foolproof breakpoint between your existing house and the new project stuff - compression fit iso valves? . . . otherwise an air compressor to blow out your pipes but that's going to need lots of time to rig up.

Cheers,

Roy
 
I did notice liquid dripping into valve on the first inlet pipe I was soldering, thought it was the flux. Yes I added flux before assembly to both valve and pipes. I used sharkbite shutoff valves with the straight handle that rotates 90 degrees between on and off. So water is getting past the valve or its water that is already in the pipes between the new valve and the shutoffs? If I shut off the main house valve and open outside spigots and then open the shutoffs at the problem area would that drain the water? Could I then try soldering again without taking apart what I have or is that useless?

What specific compression fittings would be to code and more importantly work the best? Thanks all!
 
So I got a map torch and gas and after several attempts was able to get the multi purpose rough in valve installed and the shower up and running. I disconnected a pipe from each of the sharkbite toggle shutoff valves in the basement when sweating.

Now the toilet in the same bathroom won't flush! We're have a heavy snowfall and I suspect the vent pipe on the roof is blocked. I went up and there was a buildup of snow and ice but the pipes were still open. Maybe there is blockage inside? I couldn't see anything. Only a small amount of water seems to be flushing and there is some burping in the bowl. Refilling the bowl is filling faster than the tank and to get the tank full I have to bail the bowl. What the heck? Hopefully it clears itself up. I tried plunging with no success.
 

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Epic soldering failure on shower rough in valve, are inline shutoff valves the problem?
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