Freezing 3yr old son's bedroom HELP!

[doitmyself]

I'm qualified with over twenty years experience.

I see you are GS registered and a PA member - that's all I know about you.

I've been doing them from the top since the 80,s with minimum failures. I find the side method takes more force.

May be it does take more force, but it's less likely to damage the innards of the valve.

As for qualifications, - my Forum name should tell you. Experience - looking after my own heating systems for nearly 40 years: balancing; installing motorized valves; programmers and thermostats; converting a gravity/pumped to C plan; relocating an F/E tank for a friend because it was too near the boiler, which had been relocated from ground floor to first floor, so the static head was too small and the system was pumping over. (The installers "solution" was to turn the pump down, which immediately produced other problems); etc etc. If any work to the boiler has been required I immediately call in a trusted GSR engineer.

 

[SimonG]

OP will you please give the trv's a sharp tap and a wiggle of the pin. Then let us know the score. Cheers.

 

[SimonG]

I see you are GS registered and a PA member - that's all I know about you.


May be it does take more force, but it's less likely to damage the innards of the valve.

As for qualifications, - my Forum name should tell you. Experience - looking after my own heating systems for nearly 40 years: balancing; installing motorized valves; programmers and thermostats; converting a gravity/pumped to C plan; relocating an F/E tank for a friend because it was too near the boiler, which had been relocated from ground floor to first floor, so the static head was too small and the system was pumping over. (The installers "solution" was to turn the pump down, which immediately produced other problems); etc etc. If any work to the boiler has been required I immediately call in a trusted GSR engineer.

Why didnt you leave the tank and convert to low head situation?

 

[doitmyself]

You are barking up the wrong tree. And I notice that the majority of that is copied directly from the Danfoss MI's.

How am I barking up the wrong tree?

I was not copying anything from Danfoss MI; I was already aware of the fact that Danfoss made a pre-settable body compatible with the C2 head.

What experience do you actually have?

Already answered.

Because I will not have inaccurate advice given on this forum .

I agree wholeheartedly; please advise me which advice in this topic is inaccurate.

 

[SimonG]

How am I barking up the wrong tree?

I was not copying anything from Danfoss MI; I was already aware of the fact that Danfoss made a pre-settable body compatible with the C2 head.


Already answered.


I agree wholeheartedly; please advise me which advice in this topic is inaccurate.

Its not a balancing issue.

 

[jonnyswamp]

I see you are GS registered and a PA member - that's all I know about you.


May be it does take more force, but it's less likely to damage the innards of the valve.

As for qualifications, - my Forum name should tell you. Experience - looking after my own heating systems for nearly 40 years: balancing; installing motorized valves; programmers and thermostats; converting a gravity/pumped to C plan; relocating an F/E tank for a friend because it was too near the boiler, which had been relocated from ground floor to first floor, so the static head was too small and the system was pumping over. (The installers "solution" was to turn the pump down, which immediately produced other problems); etc etc. If any work to the boiler has been required I immediately call in a trusted GSR engineer.

Not going to jump all over you fella but, the majority of home owners/diyers that come on here for advice want advice based on actual experience, not a paragraph lifted straight from mi's ins or a text book
The reality between theoretical experience and practical are sometimes far apart and can require
real world exp to rectify/overcome the problems they may have

 

[doitmyself]

Why didn't you leave the tank and convert to low head situation?

Because the tank needed replacing in any case, so while I was about it I decided to relocate. In any case the boiler's MIs specify a static head of 1m above top of the boiler, without showing a "low head" option, I followed the MIs, as frequently advised on many Forums.

 

[Dotty]

How am I barking up the wrong tree?

I was not copying anything from Danfoss MI; I was already aware of the fact that Danfoss made a pre-settable body compatible with the C2 head.


Already answered.


I agree wholeheartedly; please advise me which advice in this topic is inaccurate.

Its not a balancing issue.

As Simon said. It is NOT a balancing issue. And dabbling with your own and a friends heating systems does not make you experienced. It makes you familiar with those systems.

You, at the moment, are barking up the wrong tree by carrying on about the balancing. Your methodology of that, I will add, is also flawed. You have not read the op in the slightest.

So, do you want to want to try again?

 

[Leo21]

I see you are GS registered and a PA member - that's all I know about you.


May be it does take more force, but it's less likely to damage the innards of the valve.


I once pulled my wobbly tooth out with a price of string. Does that make me a dentist?
You've got no grounds advising people in here through your experience. Yours and a friends house isn't enough.

As for qualifications, - my Forum name should tell you. Experience - looking after my own heating systems for nearly 40 years: balancing; installing motorized valves; programmers and thermostats; converting a gravity/pumped to C plan; relocating an F/E tank for a friend because it was too near the boiler, which had been relocated from ground floor to first floor, so the static head was too small and the system was pumping over. (The installers "solution" was to turn the pump down, which immediately produced other problems); etc etc. If any work to the boiler has been required I immediately call in a trusted GSR engineer.

Well done you! You fixed an issue at some stage.

 

[rpm]

Hi guys, since joining ukpf 3yrs ago this month I`ve read every post, looked at every photograph and learned loads so can I call myself a plumber with experience and argue with real plumbers in the real world ?

Please, pretty please ! lol

 

[ShaunCorbs]

if you can pass the initiation test and pay the fee im sure crop will give your a brand

 

[rpm]

if you can pass the initiation test and pay the fee im sure crop will give your a brand

What like a sheep brand you mean? Er, no thanks I`ll pass on that !!!!

I am an engineer you know, got papers to prove it and my dad showed me the difference between an adjustable, open ended and ring spanner when I was 10 or 11 and he showed me the correct way of winding ptfe tape around a barrel nipple so do I qualify now ?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

What like a sheep brand you mean? Er, no thanks I`ll pass on that !!!!

I am an engineer you know, got papers to prove it and my dad showed me the difference between an adjustable, open ended and ring spanner when I was 10 or 11 and he showed me the correct way of winding ptfe tape around a barrel nipple so do I qualify now ?

its a must it doesnt hurt that much and maybe but the donation will have to be bigger

 

[doitmyself]

I think I will wait until the OP gets his problem solved before I comment further.

 

[PriestyUK]

Best get down Tesco's and get yourself half a dozen eggs and a hat to eat 😉

 

[Best]

I think I will wait until the OP gets his problem solved before I comment further.

I think if the OP hasn't got heat into the bedroom by now, then his 3 year old son must have frozen to death.

 

[smglasgow]

Update:

I have a HIVE thermostat, so turned the heating on from work at 4pm. Got home about 6pm, problem rads still showing top middle tems of 48 lounge and 53 bedroom respectively. Inlet pipe red hot (well 65 anyway with flow from boiler showing 70 using IR thermometer so prob slightly higher in real life). Hot rad close to boiler showing 65 degrees and rest "felt" good a hot. So no miracles occuring over night obvioulsy.

By the time kids were fed and watered it was 6:45 and so quickly decided to try the HIT IT & WAGGLE IT SOLUTI0NS ..............

1. TAPPED PIN HEAD WITH HAMMER 3 TIMES;
2. Tapped side of valve a couple of times;
3. grabbed pin with needle nose pliers and pushed up then pulled down on ping and, finally
4. gave the pin a waggle side to side 12-6 then 3 - 9 oclock before pressing up/down again;

For good measure also tapped lockshield valves and screwed closed, fully opened again........

No IMMEDIATE rocketing of system temperature, damn it (I thought -by now lounge up to 50 and bedroom up to 55 as 45 min has elaspsed with heating on full blast as set room thermostat to 25 at 4pm). Went and bathed kids, 20-min later front room and bedroom pretty much the same +couple of degrees more if that. Remembered over the weekend father in law suggested I set heating pump to no2 speed. Thought stuff it, give the system a blast and so quickly turned pump back to no3 (max speed) - which is actually what Vokera technical help guy told me to set the pump at today, without justifying his statement, when I explained the hassle I was having. Net result, within 10-min bedroom rad up to 60-degrees and front room up to 55degrees.

Has this solved it? - Not convinced to be honest and will need to wait until tomorrow AM to see as remember the rads will eventually warm up if you leave the heating on long enough (like 4 hours) and by this time the system had been blasting on full heat for 3 1/2 hours!

So sorry, but no conclusive proof of system solution (yet). One downside is at Pump setting 3 I now have 10-degree temp difference at boiler between flow and return. Not surpirsing as 8 of the downstairs rads are throttled right down to try and push heat to the rads at end of line. One thing I am certain of is turning the pump to #3 sped up the rate of heating of the problem rads (duh).

Once I solve the problem rads slow heating rate and get them to max temp same as the rest, (60-degrees within 30-min is my target for "success" based on his brothers bedroom radiator performing like this) I will balance the system again to try and get 20-degree temp drop at the boiler (55 return on 75 flow temp) as apparently this increases chances of condensing function working......

Will update tomorrow when Ive seen performance from a cold start.

 

[smglasgow]

p.s. system has been on pump setting 3 for the last 18-m (when i bought the house) and only changes to speed 2 at the weekend after father in law was round, so prior to tonight the system still failed to heat up the problem rads when pump was on 3. I therfore wonder if the valve tapping has helped................tomorrow AM will tell.

Kid not frozen (yet) and sound asleep in cosy bedroom thanks to the last 4 hrs of heating!!

 

[smglasgow]

p.p.s - I see there was some "friction" in the forum between members. All I will say is I appreciate everyone's feedback and thank you all for taking time to try and help out, be that from the position of practicing "certified" engineer or experienced homeowner who has faced similar issues.

 

[Leo21]

Just a few quick questions, I haven't read the the full op. So if you've answered this already, sorry.

Has it ever worked, does it have a cylinder on it? Does the system perform better with the hot water demand satisfied or even off?
Was the system designed and fitted all at the same time? Or added on to with an extension or
Like?
Are you sure the nest is calling for heat all the time? And are there zone valves? All these will have a factor on you system.