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Can't see what relevance DN6 and 6mm has? The OP has 8mm pipe -presumably copper considering the age of the installation - approx 28 years.I have noticed I had mixed up DN6 calculations and 6mm copper pipe resistances.
Can't see what relevance DN6 and 6mm has? The OP has 8mm pipe -presumably copper considering the age of the installation - approx 28 years.
A 500W rad with a 10K differential will require 0.012 kg/sec so 8mm pipe will have a resistance of approx 0.033 metres/metre length, i.e, 0.3m for a rad 5m from the manifold. The water velocity would be only 0.3 metres/sec, which is just about acceptable if sludge deposits are to be avoided.
When fitting an automatic bypass Grundfos used to insist in using the constant pressure settings. The variable settings alter the pressure and make it almost impossible to find a suitable setting for the bypass.[snip]
Constant pressure setting is ok for an open vent system I assume
Thanks again.
But even the index rad may need to be throttled to give the required temperature drop if the pump can't be set to do this.On balancing your worst radiator determines the settings for all others (logically as you can only throttle). This may be your 6x16 K2 at ~2800W with 0.068 l/sec and roughly 12m microbore 8mm. That is a gently 2.1 m/sec and therefore a good speed well under 2.5 m/sec.
But even the index rad may need to be throttled to give the required temperature drop if the pump can't be set to do this.
2.5 m/s seems excessive, most books suggest a maximum of 1.5 m/s and preferably only 1 m/s.
Presumably the calculation used to find the index rad for a manifold based system is exactly the same as for a non manifold system.
But, with most pumps, if the pressure increases then the flow rate, and consequently the velocity, reduces.In terms of a heating system you are correct. 2.5 m/s is excessive.
Copper is usually specified for 0.5 - 2.5 m/s. But we are looking at this layout at a full load situation.
Once some radiators start shutting down the pressure may increase depending on the pump / bypass valve settings.
Then the flow rates go up and your previous 2+ m/s quickly gets beyond the 2.5 m/s.
For those interested I have refitted my 28 year old HEAD unit to my new valve.....(interim as I am busy and do not want to drain down in the cold weather) ............. and the noise whilst not totally erdicated IS much reduced. So for all us conspiracy theorists out there Honeywell HAVE hanged something ( or their tolerances are not what they once were.......)
No. Silent apart from DHW only required. I see from a US blogger tht the problem is widespread in USA and that Honeywell 'are not aware of it'!!!! All sorts of cunning solutions over there but not available here without exhorbitant shipping fees. Its because as soon as the motor in the valve is 'released' by the micro switch the pump starts and slams the ball into its seat. There needs to be a delay between the de-energising of the stalled motor and the external power feed from the tank stat...........
or
as I think may case is with the old head, the clearances are reduced in the pivot providing a more damped action.
Internet trawling provides a lot of information.............
But, with most pumps, if the pressure increases then the flow rate, and consequently the velocity, reduces.
No. Silent apart from DHW only required. I see from a US blogger tht the problem is widespread in USA and that Honeywell 'are not aware of it'!!!! [SNIP].
Reply to the thread, titled "Honeywell v4073a valve noise" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on Electricians Forums.
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