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Bottom hole will take vertical weight of rad. but top hole is the one necessary to prevent rad. pulling away from wall. In a dodgy wall test drill for top hole to the side of intended bracket position to establish thickness of plaster and background. In most masonry situations a 10mm plug fully inserted into the background material,(not the plaster) and a coach screw 6mm of correct length will prove adequate. In any situation if a hole goes wrong plug and fill it before drilling next to it.
 
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Get a piece of ply 12mm thick stick and screw that to the wall first get it painted then you can hang the rad

Was thinking similar , is all of the wall that bad , or just where radiator has dried it out ?

Or you will need alot of spider cobweb to keep from having a pile of dust under rad !
 
Spring toggles every time if the wall is a bit dodgy unless your hole is now massive
 
Alright I've done it. Thanks for the help!

Filled my finger sized hole with rapid set cement and bunged a 10mm plug in whilst wet then waited till next day to set..
So next day plug is solid bolted bracket to it.

Wouldn't have this luxury on a same day job though no idea why cement said 20 min set time was still soft after 3 hours. Can you fill with chem plug and put a plastic plug in then normal screw?
 

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