I have still never lifted a floorboard...however...

[WaterTight]

I'm about to. To move a radiator.

So to run through proceedure. Am I right if I say:

Remove carpet from area, place somewhere protected.
Identify joists from pattern of where nails go through floorboards.
Cut through floorboard you want to lift along where you imagine the joist runs and in the direction the joist runs.
Cut down the length of the floorboard either side up to the point of first cut along joist.
Using claw of hammer or other thin metal wedge lift board.
Work on pipes.
Replace, using screwed-in wedges if mistakes have been made and board needs additional support.

Have I missed anything out?

I will be using a recriprocating saw because I already have one and I watched my old boss lift hundreds with one without issue. I've heard circular saws might be better for not risking cutting pipes underneath, any tips for not cutting pipes underneath with a recripro saw?

 

[GQuigley67]

with the rip saw you can set the depth of the cut so you minimimse the chance of cutting any wires/pipes, get a pipe/wire detector, personally I don't have one yet but I plan on getting one.

 

[WaterTight]

I had one but it just beeped at everything. It detected pipes no matter I put it near. Kind of put me off.

Any idea what TPI and length of recipro blades would be best for cutting floorboards?

 

[GQuigley67]

circulating saw(rip saw) is what I'm talking about, you get a standard blade with it, you can set the depth of the cut.

 

[kay-jay]

power tools are for posh plumbers!

i pry up the board with a crow bar just to one side of the joist then with my toolbox saw i cut the raised board half way across the joist, same at the other side of the work area and remove the board.

think i'll get me a circ saw though, they are only cheap!

 

[Ian10261]

Get yerself one of these http://www.*************/p/pry-bar-203mm/37748 Makes pulling the nails up dead easy.

 

[Ian10261]

Get yerself one of these http://www.*************/p/pry-bar-203mm/37748 Makes pulling the nails up dead easy.

Screwfix

 

[dontknowitall]

Whatever method you use, it's best to try and ease the board (or cut out part of it) all in one by loosening one whole side and each end if you can. I use a gorilla bar to try and push it up from underneath.

The more neatly you cut it out the easier it is to replace - an extra 5 minutes taking care when removing will more than repay when replacing.

Sometimes they split (which is what you're trying to avoid) but usually if you take a little time there won't be much damage. If it does start splitting, work on a different part of the board to free it.

After lifting remove the nails. It's so easy to lose your balance and then kneel, lean into a nail or walk on it by mistake. Takes a moment or two but if you do stab yourself it'll be a good week until the pain goes!

Screw them back down (instead of nails) as the next person to lift it will thank you for that! 40mm-50mm screws are fine. Walk on it after and try to wobble it. More screws if it does creak or move.

Finally, it's much easier than you think!!

Forgot something. I always get a mirror and torch down (or mobile phone camera) asap to check for wires, pipes, wasp nest, etc.

 

[blayedrunner]

I have a bosch multi tool (small recipricating tool) that cuts the tongue out making it much easier to lift.

 

[jtsplumbing]

Hi kay-jay see that you are useing the old method of lifting boards ! have you not got Electricty in Bolton yet ?? it was just combing into Manchester when I left about 40 years ago, thought it would have got to you by now!!

 

[tamz]

Presuming you haven't got a rip snorter (circular saw)

This is the neatest way to lift boards anyway, and can be done quickly once you master it.
Get yourself a feathersplitter (2 1/4" bolster) like this [DLMURL="http://shop.parkerbs.com/product/ECLIPSE_FLOORBOARD_CHISEL_9%22_X_5|8%22_CB770K_L09529"]ECLIPSE FLOORBOARD CHISEL 9" X 5/8" CB770K - L09529[/DLMURL] If you get one with one of those daft plastic guards on it, cut it off as it hinders the use of the tool.

Generally you won't see where the joists are as the boards are secret nailed through the tongue.

Get your hammer and feathersplitter and run up both sides of the board cutting through the tongue. Cut the feather up to the next joist past where you want to cut the board on (if the boards are old 6" wide 7/8" thick you may have to go a bit further) then go back to the joist you want to cut on.
Lever the board up with the feathersplitter and use the claw of the hammer to pull it up some more. Push the feathersplitter or a strong screwdriver in under the board on the side of the joist you don't want lifting and leave your claw under the other side.
Cut across the board on the joist.
Remove your feathersplitter then lift the board.
Clean off any split bits on the back of the board and remove any old nails still in it. Remove nails still left in the joists.

Don't be tempted to cut a board on the last joist before the wall, just pull it out from under the skirting board.

When relaying it use 2" sprigs or thin woodscrews. If the board is splitting when you nail or screw it, tap the points of the nails before you hammer them in or predrill them if screwing.

Only ever use a power tool that has a depth stop as you don't know what is below.

 

[kay-jay]

you got no leccy either then tamz? its grim up north!

 

[Bernie2]

Hmm!

I would use a cross cut circular saw blade with a fine teeth set (many tpi) The ordinary circular blades make firewood of the boards. Cut the tongue out and set depth for cutting across board in the middle of a joist, so you can nail it back without having to plant on a piece, a nice 45degree cut if you can and make a nice scarf of it. Then get a sparks floorboard chisel, its really a thin blade bolster and lever them up. You can get extended handles for them to give you a bit more leverage. Put a block or old piece of T and G down where your using the chisel to avoid bruising the next board. Sounds a lot of work but it isn't really after a few goes. And of course watch out for wiring and pipe depth. Don't set circular depth over cutting it might cut into pipe or wires.

 

[stevetheplumber]

if your going to use a recipricating saw youl have to lift the board first as it wont cut down onto a joist like a circular saw will use a 2inch bolster to lift boards work along either side to losen the get a bar under
not all floor boards are t&g youl know when you first put the bolster down the side
if it chip board you have very little chance of finding the joists lust cut out the piece you need up and relay with added suports under it

 

[tamz]

One of the advantages of serving your time. You learn a bit more than plumbing lol.

 

[WaterTight]

Tell me about it!

I did work for plumbers for soem time before going on my own. But the guy who let me get hands-on did light maintanence and jobbing, the guy who did full systems used me mainly as a means to having tools magically float from the van into his hands. I spent that year learning as much as I could from watching alone. It turns out that's not all that much.

Well I've got enough tips to give it a whirl now I hope. Sounds like I need to go shopping though. Sounds like I defintely want a feather-splitter. The question is do I want a circular saw or a multi-tool?

 

[quality]

The question is do I want a circular saw or a multi-tool?

It would be ideal to have both but the multitool will do want you need and more but will longer to lift boards than a circular saw would

 

[WaterTight]

But presumably I can't set a depth with multi-tool and would have to use my (non-existant) experience of floorboards to judge it?

I'd love a multi-tool anyway. I've always wanted a dremel since I saw my old boss cut rusty close coupling bolts of a WC with one.

 

[WaterTight]

Hmm!

I would use a cross cut circular saw blade with a fine teeth set (many tpi) The ordinary circular blades make firewood of the boards. ............ Don't set circular depth over cutting it might cut into pipe or wires.

Hi Bernie,

The circular saw I've looked at getting is a £100 entry-level makita and comes with a 10 teeth blade. If I'm to get a separate blade with finer teeth how fine would you recommend and are circular saw blades universal or would I have to get a makita one? Also what depth should I set it at to be sure not to cut too deep on boards as I hear they vary in dimensions?

 

[Hybrid]

what depth should I set it at to be sure not to cut too deep on boards as I hear they vary in dimensions?

In all likelyhood you'll find a board which has been up before so you can whip it up and use it to set the depth. If not go quite shallow and start your cut. If it's not deep enough you can always adjust it a little and go back over it.

You're over thinking the job a bit, you'll be fine.

 

[dontknowitall]

I'd go for a multi thingamy wotsit as you can use it to cut right up to skirting boards, cut pipes near ceilings, sanding (if you must let the side down!), notching and various other situations. It's creates much less dust than a circular saw, is quieter and there's no motor to get in the way. Also, you're much less likely to saw through the cable.

I do agree with the over thinking remarks as well!! It's really easy and after your first one you'll wonder what the worry was about. If you cut into a joist a little you're not going to bring the house down. You just need to take care, take your time and be sensible (e.g. look for wires, pipes, nests, etc at the first opportunity).

 

[tamz]

Hi Bernie,

The circular saw I've looked at getting is a £100 entry-level makita and comes with a 10 teeth blade. If I'm to get a separate blade with finer teeth how fine would you recommend and are circular saw blades universal or would I have to get a makita one? Also what depth should I set it at to be sure not to cut too deep on boards as I hear they vary in dimensions?

If you are spending around £100 this is one of the best saws you can get for floor work. Good strong build, aluminium sole plate, small and light enough to easily handle.
http://www.*************/p/dewalt-d23550-gb-165mm-circular-saw-240v/79973 (scre wfix dot com)

If you are using it just for floors and notches etc, take the riving knife off (the thing behind the blade) as it gets in the way.

The more teeth a blade has the finer the cut but don't worry too much about it. With a 165mm blade 12 teeth are ok until you loose a few teeth. You can get spare blades with more teeth for around a tenner if you like.

Std tounge and groove flooring is 3/4". Chipboard is 19 or 22mm.

 

[WaterTight]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I now feel clued up.

Arrrghhh now I want both a multi-tool and a circular saw!!

When's christmas? Is it soon?

 

[dontknowitall]

If you want both I'd go for the multi first then you might feel you don't need the circular saw. I own both but the saw has stayed at home for over a year now.

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

if its just floorboards your lifting all you need is a floorboard lifter, a hammer and a jacksaw

 

[jono44]

Surely this thread is a joke.

If you've posted on this site over 1000 times but never lifted a floor board then what have you been doing?
Your boss was too good to you - lifting boards while you watched!
Give me his number - I need some boards lifted tomorrow.

Ps: if you use a reciprocating saw then one day you are going to get into trouble big time.

 

[WaterTight]

If you've posted on this site over 1000 times but never lifted a floor board then what have you been doing?

Posting on this site, perhaps?

The clue might be in your question.

Jono, my friend, I'm not sure what relation there might be between numbers of posts on this site and competency in plumbing - generally speaking it seems the higher the number the more experienced and knowledgable the person - but for me personally 95% of all my posts have been attempting to aquire information rather than dispense it. So it's really not all that suprising.

 

[GQuigley67]

I use crow bar and hammer and screwdrivers, if i need to use rip snorter then i use that, or if its chip boards get the joiner in amongst it since he passes alot of work my way.

 

[jono44]

I'm not having a go at you watertight, I honestly thought when I started to read this thread you were joking.

Surely a person of your experience will have lifted floor boards, and just the way you said you'd watched your old boss lift hundreds - It made me laugh, that's all.

In my opinion the only time you need a power tool for lifting floor boards is if they are full tongue and groove chip board panels etc and timber t&g boards but I believe only a circular saw set at 18mm if its a 18mm board - you don't want to electrocute yourself or flood a house. Lift one section so you can get your head and a light to see if any dangers lurk beneath.

I havn't posted a lot on here because,
a) I've got 2 kids under Five
b) I've too much work on and therefor too busy to post all the time.

Any way best of luck to ya

 

[quality]

I'm not having a go at you watertight, I honestly thought when I started to read this thread you were joking.

Surely a person of your experience will have lifted floor boards, and just the way you said you'd watched your old boss lift hundreds - It made me laugh, that's all.

In my opinion the only time you need a power tool for lifting floor boards is if they are full tongue and groove chip board panels etc and timber t&g boards but I believe only a circular saw set at 18mm if its a 18mm board - you don't want to electrocute yourself or flood a house. Lift one section so you can get your head and a light to see if any dangers lurk beneath.

I havn't posted a lot on here because,
a) I've got 2 kids under Five
b) I've too much work on and therefor too busy to post all the time.

Any way best of luck to ya

Well done jono keep the young ones happy thats the main thing

Anyway floor boards ! around my way we have a newish (2 years old) estate and I had to move two rads. So I pulled the carpet to find Chipboard flooring then cut it with a circular saw and then found it was glued to the joist.

I had to go and get some new boards to replace what was ruined

I have lifted thousands of boards but none like these

 

[mike_s]

I just use hammer and floorboard chisel/flat screwdriver. I cut the tongue and boards out with a circular saw. I wouldnt use a power tool that you can't set it's depth.

 

[WaterTight]

Surely a person of your experience will have lifted floor boards

Again I think you're confusing numbers of posts on a message board about plumbing with years experience in plumbing.

All the amount of posts on this message board really denotes is the extent to which you've nothing better to do.

But yes, anyway, moving along...

 

[stevetheplumber]

mate of mine did a four year apprenteship and had never fitted a bath

 

[dontknowitall]

In four years I've never had a leak or got wet ...






AS IF ...

Just thinking about it (that hurt!) I've never installed a CWSS or F&E tank, unvented cylinder, total heating system or totally re-plumbed a house or changed a complete zone valve, converted an open vented system to a sealed system. I ran away from non copper pipes a while back!!

 

[WaterTight]

YOU Shud Be AshAmEDdddddd

DisGrazzFeul!!!

Backk 2 POlanD!

 

[WaterTight]

Oh and thanks for spreadsheet by the way.

My head exploded initially but I think I'm getting there!

 

[missplumb]

i have a circular saw and bosch multitool and both are as useful as each other. the biggest problem i find with the multitool is the blades dont seem to last 5 minutes even just through wood and at £20 a go that becomes quite an expense so i tend to use the saw for boards and multitool for awkward places. moved some radiator pipes the other day, joist about 1/2" infront of where the pipes came through, boards ran through under the wall, had to cut a hole in the joist using the multitool large enough to get my fingers in and fish the pipes through.