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Inhibitor recommendations/preferences.....

View the thread, titled "Inhibitor recommendations/preferences....." which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

R

Rick the Spud

I'm gonna flush the CH through in the next day or so, i've had tradesave sludge remover and descaler in there for a few weeks and it's time to flush.

I thought all products had to be up to a standard but apparently not, but all the plumbers i've spoken to use the tradesave stuff as 'you're just paying for the name!'. So...

1. Do they all do the same job? Fernox is expensive, Sentinel is a bit cheaper, Scalemaster is cheaper still, No Nonsense from screwfix is a similar price to Tradesave from PTS but everything mentioned here apart from Tradesave is Buildcert approved so i'm swinging towards No Nonsense.

2. What do you guys use?

3. What do i need to put in? Obviously an inhibitor of some sort, but should i put in some form of descaler that i can leave in, anti-freeze, etc?

4. What's the difference between scale inhibitor, de-scaler, boiler silencer and noise reducer. Do some stop scale forming and some get rid of scale?

cheers for your comments...

Rick
 
Cant comment on the Tradesave brand as Ive never used that. I use Fernox or Sentinel and never had a problem with it. "Paying for the name" excuse doesn't wash with me, I'm a firm believer of you get what you pay for. I know with these brands I can go back to them with problems and get good support. I don't know if you would get the same from other suppliers.

You'll need to flush out the system thoroughly and add inhibitor. If any part of your system is exposed to external temperatures then I would consider inhibited antifreeze.
I'm not in an area affected by limescale (soft water) so I couldn't comment on descaler products.
 
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I tend to use whatever is on offer as far as cleaner and inhibitor goes. Never had any problems. The only other comment would be rather than anti freeze any pipe or equipment exposed to freezing should be protected with a frost stat.
 
I assumed that we were talking about chemicals here, not system components but SimonG is correct in saying if any pipework/equipment is exposed a frost stat should be incorporated in the system.
 
fernox alphi 11 anti-freeze inhibitor 5l bottle for average system does the trick
 
Has anyone used Gold 100? A company rang me calling themselves premier chemical solutions I bought 12 bottles from them it has a BS number on there but it's like a bottle of water where others are a bit thicker this stuff is like water out the tap with no smell to it..
 
have used Sentinel X800 for power flushing and have had good results using it ,and Sentinel X100 inhibitor !
will not change as I am happy with product !
 
I prefer Fernox F1 because i love peeling the sticker off. What i dont understand is why the sticker is in two halves, why not just have one sticker?
 
Has anyone used Gold 100? A company rang me calling themselves premier chemical solutions I bought 12 bottles from them it has a BS number on there but it's like a bottle of water where others are a bit thicker this stuff is like water out the tap with no smell to it..

Is this the stuff?
/DIY/Heating/Heating-Accessories---Pumps/Chemicals/Gold-E100-Central-Heating-Inhibitor-(1-Ltr) - EliteFix

Ive not used it but from what your saying, if it smells like sheet, looks like sheet it probably is... This is why I stick to what I know works.
 
I prefer Fernox F1 because i love peeling the sticker off. What i dont understand is why the sticker is in two halves, why not just have one sticker?
Think the smaller sticker is for sticking opposite the " what inhibitor used? " question in the guarantee/ benchmark paperwork, if you wished.
 
It's all a scam from boiler manufacturer's, they test with the top brand stuff they get for free in return they promote their product, then put in the benchmark to use what they say, if we don't it prob allows them to slip out of honoring their warranty. I personally don't know if there is a difference in brands. FOr sure Fernox and the likes are the pioneers and other brands follow. I would say its pretty close. You buy flash cleaning spray or cheap copy, in food brands and in clothes. All the same with a different sticker
 
This is just a thought, ive none at hand to check, is there a contents label?

If the chemicals are listed at the back of the bottle somewhere then i guess theyre pretty much all the same.
 
This is just a thought, ive none at hand to check, is there a contents label?

If the chemicals are listed at the back of the bottle somewhere then i guess theyre pretty much all the same.
If they give accurate list of contents, we would all be making it ourselves! What puzzles me is the 4 litre Fernox inhibitor ( can't recall the name), is a different colour to the concentrated 500ml F1, & much more expensive, - what's the difference?
 
I have a mate that used to be a chemist, he retrained and after loads of problems with sludged up systems and power flushing not working even with top brands, he's convinced none of them are much good and thinks he good come up with one. Watch this space.
Seeing as the subject has come up, if drain unblocker can break down all kinds of things, why not put some of that in, surely it can't do any wrong
 
I am sure they are all slightly different, like the different brands of paracetamol but all do the same job and can all be mixed together without detriment. I often mix inhibitors since I tend to carry what the local merchant has at the time.
 
Seeing as the subject has come up, if drain unblocker can break down all kinds of things, why not put some of that in, surely it can't do any wrong

Surely that is a joke?

I use Fernox and Sentinal mainly. I have used Trade Save. The thing is, we're not always going to be aware if there is a problem. If someone had the time to test them all, the easiest thing to do would be to stick a standard nail in a tub of water premixed with some of the chemical. Then give it a month and see if its gone rusty.

I use Fernox F1 as I like the cans that can be injected into filling loops. Easiest way I've found to get it into a sealed system. Expensive though at £20+ quid a can.
 
I have a mate that used to be a chemist, he retrained and after loads of problems with sludged up systems and power flushing not working even with top brands, he's convinced none of them are much good and thinks he good come up with one. Watch this space.
Seeing as the subject has come up, if drain unblocker can break down all kinds of things, why not put some of that in, surely it can't do any wrong

You're having a laugh aren't you? Drain unblocker in a system with copper and aluminium? Most unblockers are acidic, Have you seen what condensate does to a copper pipe? and thats very weak acidity.
 
It is a joke and of course would never try it. It's just The point that its all kinds of chemical's and none really do the trick on a badly sludged system with small bore being a real problem. I have also heard some people don't believe in using a cleanser as the sludge that is removed can leave an exposed weak part in the metal of radiator's which can then leak out. But before its said, I always use a cleanser and inhibitor myself.
 
If you really want to desludge a system well. Take every single rad off the wall and remove the valves, take it out to the garden and run a hose through it for ten minutes. Then put new valves on, replace the rads and heat the system up. Put in some X800. Let that circulate for around half an hour. Then powerflush the system with a good quality machine.

Lot of work, but unless the system is chocked to a standstill, you will get a good result.

After all that work, you will use a good quality inhibitor. I should know.
 
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Makes a lot of sense! To me, sticking some sludge remover into a badly sludged system without taking rads off & flushing first, is the wrong approach. But I guess taking rads off has risks with damaging carpets etc.
 
Yeah, I use the adhesive plastic floor covering (like Hippo tape but less than half the price) from Tool Station if I think I may have a spill. Its £6 a roll.

I don't take the rads and valves off every system I flush. We're talking serious sludge issues here.

I've seen some serious sludge too. I'm sure we all have.
 
Use the No Nonsense stuff at the moment. It's approved and I suspect it may be the same as Fernox - same bottles, same smell and appearance. There must be a massive profit on the premium branded ones.
 
Cheers guys, plenty of info here.

Think i might use the No Nonsense stuff, it's buildcert approved and same price and tradesave which isn't.

Already flushed the system, see thread...

http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/central-heating-forum/28401-whats-worst-case-if-i-leave-sludge-remover-permanently.html

I
've checked the Fernox Filter and periodically drained off a cup full from the drain taps since adding the sludge remover and it's still clean as whistle from when i flushed it back in the summer. I can only think the inhibitor was stopping the oxide from lining the system, but it had no where to go until i flushed the system through.

On a separate note, the expansion tank is always cruddy/crusty on top, even though i cleaned it a few months ago, is this normal?
 
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