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Do we need to draw it... M97677_1_A6 5040.jpg Street ... M&F obtuse, what the hell, might be slighty over 15 mm each end
 
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You could try pulling 2x30 degree bends then cutting to fit and joining in the middle with a socket.
 
I would try about 30 degrees first,45 may be a bit tight

Tried a 20mm offset with a 45 degree angle. Trouble was, after putting the mark on pipe and going for the second bend - lining the mark I made up with edge of former wasn't possible because the first bend fouled the bender's pipe keep/latch/retainer.

When I did it with 30 degree bend - no problem. So, looks like a 30 degree bend is best for a very small offset.

Thanks to all for your advice.
 
Please take a photo when you finished the job, none of us here are too old to learn
 
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One thing that was mentioned was digging up some of the concrete (screed?) to change the pipes properly. I was assuming that the pipes would be difficult to get to and may be coated in whatever they are set into. But I suppose they may be covered in something for protection. What am I likely to find if I start chiselling up the floor around the pipes? Will the pipes be in a good enough condition/state to allow soldering onto them? Presumably the top layer is screed, how easy is this to excavate - easier than normal concrete?
Provided you know which direction the run is coming from:
Using the OD "exposed part" of the buried pipe measure out an equidistant circle and drill around in a circle where each hole made doesn't run into the previous hole drilled i.e. leave about 1/16" of wall between each hole drilled. Perform this in several stages, going down , say 2" depth at a time.
Once you've completed your first full circumference drill down. Take a very small chisel and tap the walls left between each drill down.All will crack and come away.Clear out your first drill down then continue until you're at a depth you feel confident working within for piping.
 
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Hell this is going on like the film "The Great Escape" ., its a 10min job, please don't start digging the floor up or you will end up back at the boiler.
 
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If you use a street elbow I would street straight out of the valve, tucked underneath the rad, back to the pipe keeping pipework tidy and 'unseen'
 

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