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Use a tape measure to measure inside the fitting then you will know how far to screw in.
 
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As a rule of thumb use c-c measurements then subtract c/line of bend to back of thread. The norm is leave two threads showing when joint is fully home, then clean of excess hemp. Hemp then jointing compound is the way I have always done it.
Make a few bits up and you will soon get in the swing.
 
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All the way into the female then about another 5mm for good measure.
Is that because the pipe thread can screw in further than the end of the thread in the fitting?
 
It's just so you can see which way the threads go, ease of use, best practise. What's the project anyway?
 
No I was just taught this , it's just incase your slightly out it will save having to undo and recut again taking time
 
Add 1/2 an inch for 1/2 inch pipe and 3/4 of an inch for bigger pipe to go into each fitting. Depends how long you cut your threads though.
 
Based in bradford. Is re-routing a central heating pipe due to it begin in the way of a were a new door way is to be put.
 
Thanks, I'll be doing the job in a couple of weeks will pop back if have any more questions when find out more about the job. Thanks for all the advice.
 
Mate don't bother screwing it, use copper to irons, and do the new section in copper, far easier and much much quicker (especially if you aren't used to steel)
 
All the time when we do boiler houses, Defiently more rewarding than just hoying copper together
 
When taking the measurement for a section of pipework to cut and thread, say between two elbows. Do you measure the distance between the elbows from the end of the internal female thread of each elbow. Or does the pipe screw further than this in to the fitting?

you need to you up on z dimensions. do a Google search or read the nvq level 2 and 3 books in plumbing.
 
All the lengths of pipe have a thread on the end. Before cutting and threading, just screw a fitting on the pipe, mark the point to where the fitting screws, undo and measure. This should answer your question.
 
we always do a test thread first if using a machine run up a thread screw it into a fittin then mark it to see how far in its gone
when working on iron you tend to turn fittings onto a length and do your measurements from end to center especially when using a machine as you can wind fittings on using the machine and a pair of stilsons one tip always drain and wipe all the cutting oil of any thread before taping or hemping as it dilutes the sealing effects realy important if your using a proper machine with oil feed as it tends to fill the pipes as it cuts personally i prefer loctite for thread now
it is very different to copper in that it uses a completely different set of skills if youve not done any before id take up the offer of help just to gain the experience experience
alloiw twice the time up to inch and treble above that you cant rush barrel all ways put clips up first and pipe to the clips you do need to be accurate as theres no nipping a bit of with the cutters if your wrong it has to go back in the machine
personally i find it realy satisfiying as done right it looks good
 
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Used to do loads of screwed iron.

REMS Amigo if you are doing a lot of it (you can hire them easily)

Hemp and Boss White every time. Never had any leaks and never bothered with loctite or PTFE. I have found screwed iron put together with PTFE with leaky joints.
 
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