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Jun 8, 2020
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Hello everyone I was wondering if you could help me solve an issue I'm having with air in my hot pipes. I had a positive head pump installed in the airing cupboard as shown in the picture but it would not start without putting the shower head in the bath to increase the pressure. After a month of doing that I changed the pump for a negative head one which has solved that problem but I don't think I'm getting the pressure out of it I should be and it continues to run for about 5 seconds after I have switched off the shower. It's also noiser than I think it should be. I have used all the existing pipe work installed by the plumbers. This morning I read up online to remove air in the system turn to cold and run for 5 mins with the pump off and the same for the hot water. Cold was fine but I noticed air coming through the hot every 4-5 seconds I could hear it working its way through the pipes and coming out of the shower hose which I had put down into the bath. It's only a small bit of air but it seems constant. It did it for the full 5 minutes of running the hot. Should I just keep doing this untill either the air stops or I drain all my hot water to cold and the air stops or will it not stop because I have another underlying problem? Any help would be great fully received.
 

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Thank you I'll go back to the plumbers and see if they can sort that out might just have to sort the pipes out as it looks like S flange comes out the top of the cylinder a bit.
 
It will be noisy stick up there On that flimsy shelf vibrating away. Put it on the floor on a 4” concrete block, with a rubber pad on.
 
It will be noisy stick up there On that flimsy shelf vibrating away. Put it on the floor on a 4” concrete block, with a rubber pad on.
Thanks for the info unfortunately there isn't enough space on the floor in the airing cupboard which is why it had to go on the shelf. I think installing a s flange will solve the issue I have asked my plumber if they can put one in
 
It's right at the edge of the photo, but does the cable from the immersion heater goes to a 13A plug into a 13A socket? It looks as though the cable isn't even clamped so there is a short section without double insulation.

If so, I'd recommend getting the arrangement sorted out by an electrician. The immersion should be wired into a correctly rated switched fused spur, ideally controlled by a programmer if you intend to use it other than very rarely, e.g. only when the boiler is faulty.
 

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