Hi. Bored and wondering about a friend's boiler that was fitted a few years ago and that, having been involved with the heating system, I take an interest in. One of these jewels:
baxi-public.partsarena.com
As it was a friend's house, I went there after and cleared some post-installation airlocks and checked the approximate balancing. It did seem to be around DT 20, but I couldn't get it accurate as the boiler kept cycling. In fact, the boiler cycles a lot and with a lot of hysterisis. I've now been online and read the instructions yet again and worked out where the temperature adjuster is (well-hidden in the Commissioning section of the manual).
As it is in a friend's house and I have access, I'd like to look at this again really when I finally get back to the UK. With a 9.14-10.1kW minimum output, with all radiators on (estimated outputs total = 16kW) and TRVs to max, the boiler should be well within its range so I'm not sure why it's suffering 10°C or more hysterisis (IIRC) on its flow temperature and cycling instead of modulating to keep a steady flow temperature. In my experience, even zombie boilers can keep within a degree or two so long as they aren't massively oversized, and they can't modulate at all.
Is it just a case of not being a very good boiler? I'd have thought the boiler should manage 16kW of radiators without cycling, at least with all TRVs fully open, but it just seems to be running through the Section 3 Operation Cycle as if it is unable to keep the flow temperature down via modulation. Or should I be suggesting my friends get an RGI in to check the boiler does not have a fault with its controls?
The manual's a bit weird as it states that the boiler responds to reaching set temperature by switching off for 3 minutes, yet elsewhere it states 'the boiler Flow temperature is controlled by varying the fan speed (and thereby the gas rate) to achieve optimum operation', which suggests the boiler should stay just below the set temperature.
Any thoughts appreciated.
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As it was a friend's house, I went there after and cleared some post-installation airlocks and checked the approximate balancing. It did seem to be around DT 20, but I couldn't get it accurate as the boiler kept cycling. In fact, the boiler cycles a lot and with a lot of hysterisis. I've now been online and read the instructions yet again and worked out where the temperature adjuster is (well-hidden in the Commissioning section of the manual).
As it is in a friend's house and I have access, I'd like to look at this again really when I finally get back to the UK. With a 9.14-10.1kW minimum output, with all radiators on (estimated outputs total = 16kW) and TRVs to max, the boiler should be well within its range so I'm not sure why it's suffering 10°C or more hysterisis (IIRC) on its flow temperature and cycling instead of modulating to keep a steady flow temperature. In my experience, even zombie boilers can keep within a degree or two so long as they aren't massively oversized, and they can't modulate at all.
Is it just a case of not being a very good boiler? I'd have thought the boiler should manage 16kW of radiators without cycling, at least with all TRVs fully open, but it just seems to be running through the Section 3 Operation Cycle as if it is unable to keep the flow temperature down via modulation. Or should I be suggesting my friends get an RGI in to check the boiler does not have a fault with its controls?
The manual's a bit weird as it states that the boiler responds to reaching set temperature by switching off for 3 minutes, yet elsewhere it states 'the boiler Flow temperature is controlled by varying the fan speed (and thereby the gas rate) to achieve optimum operation', which suggests the boiler should stay just below the set temperature.
Any thoughts appreciated.
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