L
lawnmowerman
I have just joined the forum and I have found it to be a superb source of information. I was prompted to join to try and sort out the problems on my Camray 5 boiler. It is soon to be changed for a Grant external boiler but a friend of mine who is a registered installer has not managed to fit it yet and I guess it will have to wait until warmer weather so I do not want to spend too much on the Camray but just get it working properly for a few months.
The first problem I had was an incorrectly wired hot water stat which meant that the 2 port valve opened up and fired the boiler as soon as the power was switched on. I managed to fix that by replacing the Wickes stat with a Honeywell and rewiring the wiring centre correctly. I also changed the valve while I was at it.
The second thing I noticed was that when the boiler fired up, the lower primary pipe pipe warmed up first so I guessed that they were reversed. Last week I fitted some new rads and replaced some others so while the system was drained down I swapped the boiler tails round.
I then tried to fill the system but the pump remained dry. The primaries go up through the loft and back down to the boiler. There are a couple of automatic bleed valves in the loft above the pump but they did not seem to do much. After about four hours I had that Eureka moment and removed the auto bleed valve above the pump at the compression fitting and put I hosepipe on it. It did the trick and blew all the air up into the header tank and when water started coming out the overflow I took the hosepipe off, put the valve back on and I got heat at last on all rads. The auto valves got rid of the remaining air.
The other problem I have had ever since I moved in about 18 months ago is intermittent lockout of the burner. I searched the forum for possible causes and came up with motor, photocell, igniter, no oil, air ingress, dirty filter, frozen water in the line or control panel 😕
I have been out overnight before a come back to a lockout and a freezing cold house and in the summer running a bath a no hot water as I had not noticed the lockout.
This morning while having my coffee and watching the news I actually caught it in the act! Both orange lights came on and this is normally followed by the motor starting and four or five seconds later there is a click from the igniter and the boiler fires up followed by steam out the flue. This time however after the lights came on there was a faint buzzing noise for about four or five seconds and then straight into lockout - red light on the control panel and red light on the burner. When I pressed the burner reset it fired up immediately.
Based on what I have learned from other posts on this forum I have narrowed it down to the motor or capacitor. Being as the capacitor is cheaper I have ordered one today and hopefully will arrive tomorrow. One question I have is that I was told that the new version of the capacitor is 4.5 mF and replaces the old one which was 4 mF. I have a 4 mF fitted. Was this changed by Riello to cure this very problem?
Am I on the right track with this fault? I hope it is not the motor as I am not looking forward to dimantling the burner and I have read some horror stories on here about getting the fan impeller off the shaft and having to cut it off and fitting a new one.
Thanks
Jim
The first problem I had was an incorrectly wired hot water stat which meant that the 2 port valve opened up and fired the boiler as soon as the power was switched on. I managed to fix that by replacing the Wickes stat with a Honeywell and rewiring the wiring centre correctly. I also changed the valve while I was at it.
The second thing I noticed was that when the boiler fired up, the lower primary pipe pipe warmed up first so I guessed that they were reversed. Last week I fitted some new rads and replaced some others so while the system was drained down I swapped the boiler tails round.
I then tried to fill the system but the pump remained dry. The primaries go up through the loft and back down to the boiler. There are a couple of automatic bleed valves in the loft above the pump but they did not seem to do much. After about four hours I had that Eureka moment and removed the auto bleed valve above the pump at the compression fitting and put I hosepipe on it. It did the trick and blew all the air up into the header tank and when water started coming out the overflow I took the hosepipe off, put the valve back on and I got heat at last on all rads. The auto valves got rid of the remaining air.
The other problem I have had ever since I moved in about 18 months ago is intermittent lockout of the burner. I searched the forum for possible causes and came up with motor, photocell, igniter, no oil, air ingress, dirty filter, frozen water in the line or control panel 😕
I have been out overnight before a come back to a lockout and a freezing cold house and in the summer running a bath a no hot water as I had not noticed the lockout.
This morning while having my coffee and watching the news I actually caught it in the act! Both orange lights came on and this is normally followed by the motor starting and four or five seconds later there is a click from the igniter and the boiler fires up followed by steam out the flue. This time however after the lights came on there was a faint buzzing noise for about four or five seconds and then straight into lockout - red light on the control panel and red light on the burner. When I pressed the burner reset it fired up immediately.
Based on what I have learned from other posts on this forum I have narrowed it down to the motor or capacitor. Being as the capacitor is cheaper I have ordered one today and hopefully will arrive tomorrow. One question I have is that I was told that the new version of the capacitor is 4.5 mF and replaces the old one which was 4 mF. I have a 4 mF fitted. Was this changed by Riello to cure this very problem?
Am I on the right track with this fault? I hope it is not the motor as I am not looking forward to dimantling the burner and I have read some horror stories on here about getting the fan impeller off the shaft and having to cut it off and fitting a new one.
Thanks
Jim