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Whoe, whoe, it's not hot enough, it's too hot, ... At the store now, buying new couplings but what about the remaining pipes? Well, just one from above and the new pipe pieces I've been heating and heating through trial and error. Should I be alright? I'm taking my chances. I'll be dead by the time I get everything with everything figured out. I learn a lot of time/$ costly lessons. Seems to be my path. I WILL NOT resort to compression cheating methods lol. I will do this. Solder ain't cheap tho. Like little pennies dripping off my work. More like nickels. Thanks for replies
 
The problem is that I cannot wipe off the excess solder without it balling up and rolling off and not soaking up in the space. I cleaned up the surfaces good, applied the flux, which sizzles, turns brownish, apply solder, it balls up, and sets in minimally. See the brown stain from the flux? I feel somehow it's not helping. Why isn't my solder sticking? Does it only work the first go around? Do I need to replace all parts after first failed effort? My torch is hot enough and it's dry and warm enough. ...
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This one I had better luck with but still the same issue. Both of these were leaking before.
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And I have to wipe off to make it clean no? How do I do that without the solder rolling off?
 
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If solder rolling off its too hot. Cool with some flux and then coat solder wire with flux and run into joint. It's not taking.
 
This one here came out good. Spread into the space on it's own.
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no slop, no need to wipe. I usually wipe. 😉

But this one, right after applying flux then heating it, look how nasty it gets. Haven't attempted to apply solder on top of that. Doesn't look like it'd stick no?
67zy4yg3z5ph.jpg
 
If you are using resin cored electrical solder then you will never get a good joint with copper. You need an acid flux and a lead based solder that it good for drinking water. I will find a link for how to do this correctly. Secondly if there is ANY WATER AT ALL in the pipe and the pipe is sealed it will turn to steam and you will blow the solder out of the joint before it sets
Solder for drinking water is predominantly tin and deffinately no lead.
 
Almost done. No leaks...

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except for...
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That meddling little pvc elbow. I read not to tighten too much or use too much Teflon tape. So I don't know, but apparently I got the soldering down. Not sure how, just kept working on it. It is a bit of an art/skill. I'm guessing tho I made a schoolboy error letting that pvc leak happen after soldering the last connection at top. Not sure if there are ways to test for leaks beforehand that you guys normally perform but the pvc fix should be easier than most of this job. Hand tighten that right? Just Teflon tape?
 
When soldering, you can't overheat a joint. I'll get stick for this but I have proof 😉
 
When soldering, you can't overheat a joint. I'll get stick for this but I have proof 😉

Yes you can. Heating copper pipe and then rapid quenching will make the copper soft as butter. Try this. Heat copper pipe to cherry red the quench in cold water. Now try to bend. It be bends like rubber. Now beat with a hammer. Now try and bend. Copper work hardens.
 
Said proof, it may get brittle as stated above (I thnk) if you 'quench' it, who knows...
[video=youtube;4397E-7uanE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4397E-7uanE[/video]
 
sod it use plastic lol.

btw, i would prefer using plasic until after it comes out out of the ground!!
 
think the op,s basic issue is to much heat and trying to solder with water in the pipework,basic errors,needs to practice on some scrap copper IMHO,whats that plastic solvent welded stuff in the floor? with blue gunk
 
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think the op,s basic issue is to much heat and trying to solder with water in the pipework,basic errors,needs to practice on some scrap copper IMHO,whats that plastic solvent welded stuff in the floor? with blue gunk
American solvent glue has colour in it so you can see where it has been applied. The pipe is some kind of pressurized solvent weld water supply service. Like a modern durapipe.
 

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