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Old cast iron column radiators flow return-urgent help

View the thread, titled "Old cast iron column radiators flow return-urgent help" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

Hi everyone,

need a bit of help again please with a couple of problems

So we had x20 radiators and we managed to get the cap-end/ valves off x18 of them to swop and do the bottom-bottom flow/ return.

Then problem 1 developed 🙁 Unfortunately- we managed to shear the valves clear of the remaining 2 using our big trusty steel pipe :S and the thread is now stuck inside. We have tried gently sawing to try and loosen/ hitting with a chisel and drilling but they won't budge. Does anyone know how to get these out other than praying for a miracle! We were going to try a steel merchant/ welder and see if they can drill them out?

Problem 2 is some of the fittings are in pretty rubbish condition so I don't know whether to get new. For some radiators its 1.5" opening and others its 1" so I was going to get these reducing bushes to fit our 15mm valves and put new stop ends on-are these the right type?



Also been advised to use LSX sealant when fitting the stop ends-is this the best one do you think?

Thanks-any advice much appreciated 🙂
Elli
 
Hi everyone,

need a bit of help again please with a couple of problems

So we had x20 radiators and we managed to get the cap-end/ valves off x18 of them to swop and do the bottom-bottom flow/ return.

Then problem 1 developed 🙁 Unfortunately- we managed to shear the valves clear of the remaining 2 using our big trusty steel pipe :S and the thread is now stuck inside. We have tried gently sawing to try and loosen/ hitting with a chisel and drilling but they won't budge. Does anyone know how to get these out other than praying for a miracle! We were going to try a steel merchant/ welder and see if they can drill them out?

Problem 2 is some of the fittings are in pretty rubbish condition so I don't know whether to get new. For some radiators its 1.5" opening and others its 1" so I was going to get these reducing bushes to fit our 15mm valves and put new stop ends on-are these the right type?



Also been advised to use LSX sealant when fitting the stop ends-is this the best one do you think?

Thanks-any advice much appreciated 🙂
Elli

you will need to hack saw very carefully a slot out about 1/2 inch so you can then fold the snapped part inwards and boss white and hemp to put the new stop ends in
 
so kind of like use the hacksaw to notch the thread that's stuck in then try and sprise it out?

yes but dont cut too far (into rad threads) and cut it top and bottom and then either side and you should be able to work one out then the rest will be easy only prob it takes ages
 
on the JTM website if its described as galvanised is this steel? Are these more hard wearing?

thanks

well in your post you said brass the only prob with brass is its soft so might cross thread
 
so kind of like use the hacksaw to notch the thread that's stuck in then try and sprise it out?

My method is to two cuts one at 12 o clock and the second at 10 o clock, once that segment is out then hammer & chisel at 12 o clock towards 10 o clock and downwards, this should take the pressure off the fitting and it will come out by hand.

This is for a right is tight thread.
 
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These rads are not designed to work at 3 bar pressure which is the safety valve setting on your combi.
They have spent there lives so far in open vented systems with a head pressure of a floor or two i.e. 0.6 - 1bar.

If I were you I would be testing them first as SimonG suggested, then I would fit a safety valve with a lower setting to the system!

BTW - TBOE for the con's

pressure wont be a problem ive had cast rads with 8 floors on them all the big buildings in london originally had cast iron rads
 
Thanks everyone-will try the hacksaw method.

The rads have only recently been removed from buildings where I understand they were working but boiler being fitted Sun so will mention about the safety valve as I don't want to ruin (any more!) of them. Is a sealant necessary for the stop ends on the rads or just PTFE and if so whats the best thing if LSX isn't good for this?
 
Thanks everyone-will try the hacksaw method.

The rads have only recently been removed from buildings where I understand they were working but boiler being fitted Sun so will mention about the safety valve as I don't want to ruin (any more!) of them. Is a sealant necessary for the stop ends on the rads or just PTFE and if so whats the best thing if LSX isn't good for this?

boss white and hemp

[video=youtube;bFXgwO9qszY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFXgwO9qszY[/video]
 
boss white and hemp

[video=youtube;bFXgwO9qszY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFXgwO9qszY[/video]

That paste he's using isn't much like boss white though? The guy in the video seems to think the paste is just for lubrication. Anyone else here tried hemp without boss? It don't seal lol!

I like using Boss and hemp. Makes me feel old-school 🙂
 
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That paste he's using isn't much like boss white though? The guy in the video seems to think the paste is just for lubrication. Anyone else here tried hemp without boss? It don't seal lol!

It's an American vid so will be pipe dope but use boss white instead and apply like vid and it is required
 

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